Hello, John Talley here would Boats.net. Today we're going to be replacing
the input shaft seals on our 2004 Yamaha F225. Now previously, we had already done
the replacement of the water pump and I noticed one of the seals was damaged, so
we're gonna go back in and get those seals replaced. But before we get started,
let's step over to the table and look at the parts and the tools we're going to
need to pull this off. There is no kit for this particular
project, so you'll need to buy the parts individually, or you can click that link
in the description below where we already have a shopping cart ready to go
for everything that we used in this video. Now if your drive is in decent
shape, you should need nothing more than a screwdriver to carefully pry the
housing up. But given the condition of ours and the level of corrosion, we went
ahead and picked up a puller from our friends over at Marine Tech. Really
high-end stainless unit and this should get the job done. So now that we've got
our specialty tools together, let's go over there and get this done.
As you can see, we've already removed the lower unit. You need a little help
getting this off, why don't you refer back to our water pump video and I'll
walk you through the process. Basically you just have these four bolts that are
from the bottom and but you've got one hidden under the trim tab so make sure
you don't miss that one. So now that we've got it out, let's go
ahead and take our housing back off and that will expose the seals that are
below. So gently pry up on this cover. Now we can just lift it off and got a couple
of O-rings that have to go back in. There she goes. As I talked about on the
impeller video, you actually have to take off this this locking collar before you
can get to that nylon spacer that's below. Being nylon, it is somewhat fragile,
so what I'm doing is prying down against a socket back and forth until I get it
to release. Takes a little bit of patience, but make sure you don't get
under the nylon-- otherwise you'll snap it. There it is. Now you can see where the
the spacer is actually split, so you can just open it up a tick and then slide it
up. Next, what you have is a flat washer, and then what they call a wave washer,
and then another flat washer down at the bottom. So you'll have three of those all
together. Next we can go ahead and pull up the impeller itself. Remove the key.
Hopefully yours won't be as as difficult as that one. We can get our wear plate
and the gasket out. Now with all that out of the way, we take a look at that seal
that I'd noticed. So there's supposed to be a metal retaining ring that goes
around this part of the seal. When we had taken this apart before, I noticed that
there were just pieces of it left up on top,
so obviously it's disintegrated. So next, let's go ahead and get those four bolts
out, and the challenging part is actually going to be to remove this housing out
which has the two seals inside of it. So as predicted, this is corroded in place
and you've got basically a zero chance if we're moving it with a screwdriver.
Only thing you're going to accomplish is breaking the housing and/or that lower
unit edge right there. As predicted, we're going to be going to our special tool
from our friends over at Marine Tech. See if we can get this thing to come out of
there.
What I'm attempting to do now is just to get this to rotate to break it loose
inside of the housing, because it's obviously gonna have to be replaced. The
pitting is so severe where the seals were, I don't see your a way to clean it
up and reuse it. So yes, am I damaging it? Well yes, because we're gonna replace it.
But I don't see any other way around it at this point.
Alright, let's see if this thing pops loose. There we are. Unbelievable. Well
she's out now. If you watched one of our earlier videos where I did the prop
shaft seals on this particular lower end, it was obvious that there's bearing
damage inside of that housing. It's obvious again that there's bearing
damage on this one as well. Now we're gonna save that one for another video. So
the purpose of this video is just to show you how to pull the housing.
Hopefully yours wasn't that tough, and we're gonna go ahead and replace the
seals in a new housing and put it back together. We're gonna deal with all the
bearing issues as a whole on another video, but today we're just concentrating
on the seals. But believe me, we're gonna go back because even with new seals,
bottom and top, this lower unit is nowhere near being usable on the bottom
end of a boat. So we've got our new housing, and it would be a crying shame
to put it in something so dirty. So what we're gonna do right now, spend a little
bit of time getting this cleaned back up and then I'll
walk you through putting it back together. Alright, at this point, once
you've got things cleaned up, you want to feel around and look make sure this
isn't pitted to the point it's not gonna seal up again. That's what actually,
believe it or not, actually feels pretty good through here. I don't see any
pitting, I don't feel anything. It cleaned up reasonably well. We have our new
housing, we've got our seals, we've got our overhang, but we also have a new
needle bearing that needs to be pushed into the housing. So let's get that done
first. The trick here is we want to get this edge to go below this point by in
between 4.25 to 4.75 millimeters depth. So right there.
Okay, we're flush at this point, and now we just need to set it down. We're aiming
for four point five millimeters. Getting close. Let's take a look at that and see
where it is. I think we've nailed it. That is right on four point five, so we're
going to go with that. So our two seals, they're going to end up
being installed like this, stacked on top of each other. Both bottom edges are
facing in at this point, and this upper edge is going to be roughly a half a
millimeter down below the edge of the housing. So that's what we're aiming for.
When you're picking out a driver to do this, make sure that you're actually
driving more toward the outer edge of the seal itself. Otherwise you're just
going to drive it straight through and destroy it. We almost have it set up,
let's go and get our ring in place. Now we've got to put together. So before we
actually install it, we want to pack the two seals with grease, and wanna oil our
bearing, and then put a light coat of grease around this O-ring to where it
presses into the housing easier. What you're doing here is actually filling
the cavity between the two seals. Now let's go ahead and get that a ring on
the outside. Just for kicks, go ahead put a light coat on all the metal surfaces,
so when the next time comes around, hopefully this will cut down on how much
corrosion is going to happen. Have a better chance of getting it to pull free.
So this is set up and ready to go. Let's get it reinstalled. We've got our housing
ready to go. And we just put it over the input shaft.
And you want this galley way pointing toward the front. There it is.
Yamaha recommends you use a little bit of Loctite on these bolts, so I'm going
to go with the blue and then we'll get those tightened down.
Last piece we have is just this upper cover. Well all right guys, that pretty
much wraps this one up. Only thing I have to do now is just remount the water pump
and then reinstall the lower unit. Now if you need help doing that, why don't you
reference our videos that show you how to get that covered. Listen, if you need
any parts for your boat, why don't you come and see us at Boats.net and we can
get you taken care of. You have any questions or comments, leave them in the
section below and I'll do my best to answer. Hey if you like what you see, why don't
you go and hit that subscribe button. That way you can keep up with whatever
I'm working on next. We just want to say thank you for shopping here with
us at Boats.net and we will see you in the next video.
Have a great day