Hey there, today on Behind Closed Doors
we're painting a Plaguebearer of Nurgle. Man I love these guys they're so gross looking!
Everything starts with the base and here we're using Cadian Fleshtone quite watered down on
the wet palette. You have to be careful with flesh tones I find the gw ones can often be quite thick
so you want it at a nice consistency before paint touches model, so you don't get any bumpy bits.
and you don't have to worry too much about coverage here as we're doing two coats and
there's going to be a lot of layers on top of this by the end, and you want to
base coat everything here that's not going to be metal or teeth with the Cadian Flesh,
even the innards as we're going to be coloring all that stuff with glazes later on.
I'm also using an older brush for this base coating because there's quite a lot of texture
on these models, so you can quickly ruin your brush with this kind of aggressive base coating.
If you use an airbrush you could definitely use it here too whatever works for you.
Now we're going to mix equal parts Cadian Flesh and Ionrach Skin together and do a rough and
heavy highlight on all the skin and organic parts. You don't have to worry about being too
neat with this even though it's a highlight it all just adds to the final effect on the model.
Highlight his little plague cheeks there. Ionrach Skin is going to act like a bone or
off-white color mixed with the skin tone here but it also has a slight grey green tone to it so
it's going to work well with the overall vibe of the mini. Don't forget to hit all the little pustules
and innards too. Any metal bits can be painted with a 50/50 mix of Rhinox Hide and Iron Warriors
and this is just going to create a nice dingy kind of rusted metal look that we'll highlight later.
You can use any darker silver for this really, I'm a big fan of Iron Warriors because it's super dark
and it works great for this purpose. On this model it's only just the plague sword but you
may have other metal bits and bobs dotted about on whatever you're painting and it can all be based
with this color. We're going to do a heavy over brush on the base here with Skavenblight Dinge.
I like to get any dry brushing or over brushing sorted out early on in the piece
um just because it can be a messy process sometimes. I've got some sand and gravel glued
down to the base but I'm gonna be adding some toxic puddles later so I've left a few areas flat
just painting over all of it for the time being as I'm going to sort that out later. I'm using
a real old brush for this because dry brushing over sand is absolutely brutal on bristles so
don't be doing this with good brushes otherwise you're gonna sandpaper them.
Finally a few details can be painted with XV-88. I'm doing the teeth and the claws with this just to
act as a nice base for the bone colors. This is probably one of my most used colors XV-88 it's just
great for base coating so many things. You'll see this one pop up a lot in the videos. We're bringing
out the Nuln Oil to give us some shading on the whole model and this not only unifies all the base
coats but also makes it a lot more clear where we're going to be applying all the highlights.
If you're really neat with your base coats and already have all your black lining visible, or you
like to add it later with pin washes then you canskip a wash like this sometimes I just find this
to be the most efficient way of getting the effect I'm after. I'm putting some on the base too because
spray undercoats can often miss the sand texture leaving some patchy bits and we want this nice
and dark. I'm going to drybrush the base with Dawntsone before putting any layers on the model so I
don't have to be so careful with it. Drybrushing bases can be done at any stage in the painting
process and if you get a bit on the feet it's just going to look like dirt so it's not a big deal but
let's just get out of the way now. Seeing a bit of the base done also helps me visualize
the completed model better so I find it quite helpful. Going back to our skin mix here and
adding some fairly heavy highlights but leaving all the Nuln Oil in the recesses for the shading.
The Nuln Oil darkens the shadows but also settles in the deepest
crevices to create two levels of shading, so you don't want to be kind of obscuring
any of that with these highlights, even though they're fairly heavy.
A final highlight on the skin and organs with pure Ionrach Skin.
We're going to be putting the glaze over this so it doesn't need to be,
you know, a super extreme highlight just a nice general highlight over the whole model
and we're going to do our final highlights after the glaze is done.
Now he's been looking a little weird up until this point because he's not green
so we're going to fix that with a Plaguebearer Flesh Glaze.
This is mixed about 50/50 with Lahmian Medium just to keep it nice and transparent.
and the key with glazes is to keep them thin because you can always add more on but if
it's too opaque it's going to ruin the shading and highlighting we've done on the skin so far.
I keep a bottle of Plaguebearer glaze mix for this specific purpose for consistency but
different shades don't matter and they'll work with the Nurgle theme if you have some variation.
You don't need to paint this in any of the wounds, we're coming back with some pink after this.
I find the citadel contrast paints very useful for glazes because they're already at a nice
consistency and you only have to dilute them a little depending on what you're painting,
and the individual pigment of the contrast painy itself,
but any of these glazes can be made with medium and traditional paints. I do that sometimes
but for often used colors I just find it easy to pick up the contrast paint.
The second glaze we're doing is with Volupus Pink in all the wounds and stuff like that, and this is
only thinned a little because I want it to be quite vibrant. A rich wound color will contrast
nicely with the pale green flesh and I put a little bit in his mouth too because a glaze like
that can be easier than trying to paint the detail in there properly and if you don't have this
contrast paint because it's only a little kind of small area of the model you can mix your own with
medium and any kind of rich pink color. So when you glaze something you can inevitably lose some of
the prominent highlights because it's blending and subduing everything so I like to come through at
the end with a pure Ionrach Skin highlight and just get some nice definition on key focal points.
besides the face the hands and around the wounds are great areas to add some final highlights.
I also like to hit all the little pustules to make them extra disgusting.
I'm adding a bit of the Volupus Pink glaze to the edges of some of the wounds just so they don't
look so neat from the edge highlighting. It can be good to even thin this further and do a few
coats just to make it nice and subtle, I think if you put too much on it can look a bit garish.
We've got to paint his weird little Nurgle eyes, they look a bit spidery so you could just
paint these black but I'm going to paint them yellow because that's how I picture Nurgle eyes!
Be careful with painting details like this after you've finished something like the skin because
you don't want to have to do any touch-ups. Just a spot of white for the yellow to sit on,
make sure you leave some black around the edge of the eye to help them pop a bit more from the skin
Finally a little dot of yellow.
You can go back after this and add a tiny bit of white to the eyes but
I think they look fine as is particularly for tabletop standard.
So this model is mainly skin but we still have to go through and add a few more details,
starting with some highlights on the rusted blade with Ironbreaker, and any mid-range silver will
be completely fine for this and create a nice contrast with the dark rusted areas.
and Games Workshop has a great range of technical paints if you want to add more effects after this,
you can experiment with stuff like Typhus Corrosion and Nihlakh Oxide for example. Sometimes
though I just like a bit more of a plain effect. The teeth and nails need a bit of a Ushabti Bone.
Always be careful when doing these precision details at the end, I find it's good to brace
my hands together if there's any shaking going on and I definitely steer clear of the coffee!
Just a few little bins of white on the bone areas
to bring out the contrast with the rest of the model
and don't forget his little toe claws.
The last thing we have to do is finish off this guy's toxic base.
A light drybrush of Administratum Grey will pick out the texture nicely before we put the pools in.
I'm keeping it fairly simple with this base but it's something that's easy to replicate over lots
of models. When I apply the mix of sand and gravel I leave some random shaped pools untextured and
this makes the pools look more like they are you know just sitting in the base as opposed to on
top of the gravel. Now these are being painted green to act as a base for the Nurgle's Rot.
It's not really too important what green you use here, Loren Forest just seemed to me like it had a
good tone for this. Quickly whack a bit of Abaddon Black around the rims, and if you want to varnish
your model now's the time to do it as technical paints like Nurgle's Rot will be dulled by
a matte varnish for example. Add in the pools with Nurgle's Rot, I think two or three coats of this
is really the sweet spot. It's important to make sure it dries properly between the coats though.
I also like to ever so slightly push the Nurgle's Rot up against
the gravel to make it look a bit more realistic.
And that's the Plaguebearer done! I honestly had so much fun painting this model, I just want to go
out right now and paint a whole army of these guys. Nurgle are such great models to paint because
there's so much room for experiments, and a little messiness, and maybe even some happy accidents.
Thanks for watching, if you enjoyed the video please like and subscribe it really does
help the channel grow, and we'll see you next time on Behind Closed Doors