do you know what this is this is the daredeo Dreadnought often considered one of the fugliest
dreadnoughts Games Workshop has ever made I mean it's got nothing on the fury bundes but
nobody even counts that one anyway whenever I get into conversations about dreadnoughts the
daredeo often receives a lot of negativity and sometimes from me too because I kind of agree
it's sort of an ugly model it's got some wonk in the bunk let's just say but I want one I am
a Dreadnought connoisseur and I want a daredeo in the collection so I am going to put this together
and my daredeo is going to be unquestionably cool objectively cool and the way I'm gonna do that
is through kid bashing [Music]
now I know four Jewels a rip-off the resin is half the quality of Games Workshop plastic for twice
the price but it has been a hot second since I've unboxed affordable item and I'm kind of excited
foreign there is something to Forge World or maybe there used to be back in the Disney like
a decade ago it was a badge of honor to have one fancy forgual unit sitting in the center of your
completed four to five thousand Point Army it was dessert it was a special treat because you
are the Dark Eldar guy you are the Space Marine guy nowadays though things are just different
especially here in the USA years ago you had a special order forgeville from the UK and wait
for it to cross the ocean nowadays though it just ships from the U.S Warehouse in Memphis Tennessee
and we paid 20 extra for the privilege having lived through all these parts I can say that it's
for the most part fine which is kind of terrible for the price I paid for this thing I would hope
it would be Immaculate I bought a ton of resin from other companies and it's usually tens out
of tens for less money where every single one of these pieces is probably a seven or eight out of
ten in terms of casting quality the only big problems I ran into was these barrels have a
pretty good lean to them one of these little Shin armors is missing a rivet and there's a big old
bubble where that rivet should be and I really hope that they retired the mold after they cast
my gun belt ammo feed things because there's a big chunk of silicone in there and if they
use this mold again the next person's little chain is gonna be really messed up all in all it's fine
time to get to work Step One is washing all the parts because they have an oily mold release
chemical on them that will stop the primer from sticking properly I threw all the parts into my
Ultrasonic Cleaner I had to cut off the excess resin so it could all fit into my incredibly
cheap tiny cleaner then I poured in one Parts La totally awesome to three parts water don't
use alcohol for this it can soften the resin now the real work begins games or shot Plastics
are basically perfect right off the sprue but on these four drilled resin pieces I have to do a lot
of cleaning up carving away excess resin sanding I think this is part of why there's still a Mystique
to Forge World it's actually impressive to see someone get one of these things built the gun
barrels still need to be drilled the old-fashioned way and speaking of barrels forgerle connected
these with a strip of resin probably a good idea for casting but it was a pain in the butt
to get rid of I cleaned up the weapon options that come in this kit and it made me wonder
heavy Bolter or heavy flamer it's the heavy flamer is so so cool and a very powerful weapon
but it's close range I really don't see this daredeo ever getting charged or needing a weapon
like the heavy flamer the heavy Bolter is not that good but at least it can actually reach out to the
sort of ranges that I'm going to be typically shooting with the daredeo I could magnetize
it and have both options but really I feel like I don't need to this heavy flamer is probably never
gonna get used so I'm gonna take these bits and put them in my bit spins and I'm going to start
gluing things together the hilariously big missile launchers actually can freely swivel if you glue
them down just right unlike the normal dreads the smokestacks are horizontal to make room
for the Top Gun some actual engineering went into this tread very unusual for the 40K Universe the
guns went together nicely I really like that the daredeo actually has ammo boxes that look like
they can hold more than five bullets and of course his little Noggin this Dreadnought has a tiny body
there must be nothing left of the original pilot to actually fit in there the Dara Deo or Dorito
Dreadnought is constructed and comparing it to a classic box dread it is very different it's
quite a bit taller and it's also decently well proportioned to a human frame imagine actually is
what sets it apart from the normal dreadnoughts because Normal dreadnoughts are coffins on legs
they are weird silly looking things where the daredeo is actually a lot more humanoid and looks
pretty darn good until I attach the hilariously huge guns now I do love how ridonculously big
these guns are but it does really really highlight how tiny those legs are and I think that the legs
are going to be how I am going to fix or alter this Dreadnought to be extra awesome
and the way I'm gonna do that is with the Sentinel kits this is the new Sentinel from Games Workshop
and what I need of this box is the legs I think just the Sentinel legs would actually look pretty
good on their own but I think I can modify the dreadnoughts legs into this and those legs and get
the best of both worlds and use as much expensive wardrobe resin as possible now from all the way
over here I can hear you all wondering Jay did you buy a 45 Sentinel just to Kit bash part of
its foot into the Dreadnought and uh yeah I'm gonna try to use as much of the Sentinel as I
possibly can but um yeah it feels a little sillier now than it did when I was ordering the parts
first I cut away the peg that helps you pose The Sentinel then I had to cut away almost all of the
ankles that I could slide the resin joint onto it this was really hard to do but working slowly and
carefully I made it happen I cut away the old leg joint this felt wrong destroying that much cordial
detail but I had to do it I drilled some holes for the Sentinels Hydraulics and shocks then I
stuck the new leg into place I put green stuff into the leg to make it taller because now the
leg sits at a weird angle from the foot because of the chicken stance of the Walker and I had to
glue the neon upside down because of the new leg I glued the new legs onto his butt then threw on
the Torso and it looks really different now the daredeo now has some funky fresh legs putting it
alongside the classic box dread it now Towers over it and it's so interesting those new legs
are a good Counterpoint and counterbalance to the humongous guns those legs look like
they can actually withstand the crazy recoil of the auto cannons as opposed to the all kind of
Stumpy legs that uh look like it might fall over if it fired just a little bit too fast
now I gotta fill up that base with stuff and it's an 80 millimeter base so there's lots and lots of
room to play around with I went back to the original Sentinel sprue I used up the legs so
now it's time to do something with that head and of course old Games Workshop put a stop to my fun
so I was hoping that I could use up the rest of this Sentinel to have it dead on the ground with a
bunch of Auto Cannon holes in it but it turns out the new Sentinel kit is probably about 25 bigger
than the old Sentinel it is huge it's way too big to put on the space so I'm gonna have to figure
out something else to do with you and I'm gonna have to figure out something for this base I went
back to my tried and true black Templar bass trick pine bark nuggets I hot glued these Downs into
spots that wouldn't interfere with the big feet of this dread and a big feat you know what that means
big Auto cannons and I put some milliped to soften the transition from the woods of the base I
covered the ground in wood glue and then sprinkled on some sand and Pebbles it's not the most amazing
base that I had in my head but it's still good and it'll match the rest of my Army nicely now
it was time for assembly I had to soften up the gun so they would fit properly onto the body I
used hot water for this this is pretty tricky to do for anybody else out there building the daredeo
Dreadnought with the anvilus auto cannons uh definitely glue the belts on last or else you have
to do a lot of tinkering this big boy was ready it is finally time to paint this sucker up and I am a
little bit nervous because I am bad at painting Vehicles when I look at my old dreadnoughts
they're fine but they're kind of just gray boxes I think the thing that really saves them is all
the fancy little decorations where the armor is pretty drab but on the daredeo there's like no
decorations it's all armor so I really gotta get the armor singing and so what I think I'm gonna
try to do is I'm going to use the recipe for my black Templar Troopers and try that on the vehicle
I primed this sucker black because then I thought it white then I base coated the metal I made up a
gray metal by mixing gray with silver paint this will let me push my contrast as much as I want
while still getting a little bit of the metallic glitter then it was time for my patented black
Templar Armor recipe I used Leviathan blue black Templar and lamian median you can see how I use
this in a PDF paint guide over on our patreon and that's not all you'll find over there we
have a brand new train set every month this month we have the Starship Bridge a modular Grim dark
spaceship interior complete with stained glass windows this set is available for the month of
March and is all hosted through Comics Games and Things on our patreon you can also watch extra
episodes of EOB join live Discord Hangouts and get your name on a Space Marine I apply this mix
all over the armor I used a huge brush for this because Games Workshop contrast dries really fast
I want to make sure I get every part covered while still wet otherwise I would be coffee
staining you would see the edge where the last layer of paint already dried I used a few extra
coats of paint here and there to darken some of the armor and then I mixed up a matching gray
paint using the Leviathan blue and white paint and I used this to highlight and clean up some of the
patchiness of the contrast paint I did lots and lots of highlighting and some Edge highlighting
with a light gray I think it looks really nice although some might disagree that is some black
armor and I know what you're all thinking it's blue and it's it is blue it's objectively blue
but I don't really care because black armor is impossible if I just left it primed black it
would be black but it wouldn't have any contrast and contrast is what gives a model pop it's what
gives it energy what's what makes it jump out on the gaming table so I am willing to leave a little
bit of that behind and introduce a little bit of color and value and contrast to make my Miniatures
a little bit more interesting and speaking of contrast it's time to add that to the metal I
make some silver into the white paint to make a highlight for the metal of this Dreadnought and I
use it to highlight exactly like I did the armor but it didn't do as good a job and that was on
purpose I didn't need to because after this step I applied a black wash right over top and it won't
matter that you can see right where the highlights start and stop because the black wash will blend
all together almost everything is done now but I want to do something crazy the belly of this
daredeo is my favorite thing on this model I love it I love how the paint turned out on it and now
I want to paint a checkerboard on it this might lead to disaster or it might look really cool
probably disaster though I better be careful I have painted a lot of Checkers in my day
mostly on Orcs you land flat surfaces and for Orcs they don't have to be perfect but here it does I
went really really slowly with very thin paint sketching out my squares and then filling them
in I want yellow Checkers maybe if I get a second one I'll do red they would look great as a pair
once I had the squares blocked in pun intended I filled them in using an orange around the
edges where the paint should be darker and a white yellow around the head where it should be lighter
the checkers are done it took about two hours to do just the checkers
does look pretty snazzy though gonna have to do something to really black Templars it up
and I'm thinking decals I love decals the New Black Templar decal sheet comes with a variety
of shapes and sizes I put a little one right on his Dome that way he matches my intercessors I
put some bigger symbols on the legs some little Shield symbols on the guns and some big honking
Templar symbols on the two missile pods now the rest of the model is very painterly and
the decals are very perfect so I used some tan paint and black paint to blend them into the
model better then came the eyes I filled them with the red fires of sigismon's Fury meaning evil Sun
Scarlet for the base I airbrushed on some Vallejo Earth then dry brush with Vallejo Stonewall gray
a few Little Squirts of burnt umber a Sapia wash and a little more dry brushing to finish it off
now you're probably wondering what makes this Dreadnought different from the classic box dread
and contemptor dreadnoughts that are the more typical Stompy Androids you see on the tabletop
well it has four extra wounds 12 instead of eight a file up and vulnerable save and it foregoes any
close combat weapon slot to max out on shooting potential and is shooting out 18 decent shots a
turn mostly damage too at 36 inch range and it can reach out to 48 with most of its guns
it's not completely unique in that stat line but it probably is the funkiest unit with that kind of
a weapon Loadout and that's really the point sure I could take a gladiator Lancer tank or
a predator Annihilator and probably throw similar dice but I want the Double Take I
want my opponents absolutely confused when this lanky weirdo with guns bigger than he is marches
onto the board I finally have a Doritos Locos Dreadnought for the collection thanks for watching