If you're thinking of putting a garden shed in your backyard,
I'll show you how simple it is to put it together yourself.
When you're choosing a shed, have
a think about what you'll be using it for.
If you're just storing a few tools, a small shed's fine.
If you want to get lawnmowers and wheelbarrows in there,
just go for a bigger shed.
I'm going to be putting up one of these Storite sheds
from Mitre 10.
They come in a range of sizes.
And for this job, we're going to be
using a rite3 shed, perfect for tools and garden equipment.
The kit set comes with all the rivets and screws for the job.
But there are a few tools you'll need,
a cordless drill, a drill bit, rivet gun, safety goggles,
non-slip gloves, tin snips, a stepladder, and a screwdriver.
The first thing we want to do is check the contents of the pack
against the checklist provided, just to make
sure we've got everything.
This kit comes with pop rivets and screws.
I've chosen to use the pop rivets.
Now it's time to start assembling.
If you have a few sawhorses, it'll
make the process a whole lot easier.
We'll start with the door.
Attach the top and bottom dollar channels
and rivet at the center ribs only.
Then attach the side channel and fix all four corners.
Turn the door over and fix all four corners from this side
as well.
Fix down the door sides with four rivets on each edge.
Attach the door strip in the center of the door sheet.
Slip it under the door side and then fix it
to the rib and door side.
To fix the hinges, measure 120 millimeters from each end.
Fix the center rivet first.
Right.
Now it's time to fix the door braces.
These run from the top and bottom
of the hinge side of the door.
Fix them at the ends and center.
You may need to cut or bend the flange
at the top or bottom, if it catches on the door jamb
when opening.
Now the door is done, we can complete the front wall.
First, we'll attach the door jambs to the front wall sheets.
Now we'll attach the door to the front wall.
Measure 30 millimeters from top and bottom.
Fix the center rivet first, leaving a small gap
for the hinge.
And then fix the channels to the top and bottom of the sheeting.
When you're fixing the channels to the sheeting,
make sure the higher side of the channel
is on the inside of the shed.
On the outside, fix the channel at the corners
by drilling and riveting.
Use the door spacer to determine the correct opening
size by placing on the bottom flange of the door jambs,
and fix it into place.
Then rivet every second rib in between.
On the inside, place one rivet per sheet
at each end, up through the channel underside
and through the door jambs and spacer.
It's very important to include these rivets,
as they are structural.
Now we'll do the same for the other end.
Then you're ready to attach the pad bolt onto the door.
To make the sides, we lay out the sheets.
How many will be determined by the size of the shed
you're building.
Make sure the ends of the sheets are flush.
We fix the sheets together with two rivets
through the overlapping ribs.
Then we attach our top and bottom channels.
Fix them at the corners, then every second rib.
We also need to put at least one rivet up through the underside
of the channel into each sheet.
And it's the same story with the back.
Fix our sheets together with two rivets
and attach top and bottom channels.
Fix in the corners, then every second rib, and at least
one rivet from the inside per sheet.
Now we've put the roof together and the channels are on.
But I haven't riveted the corners yet,
because I have to attach the L flashings.
Place the short flange of the L on top of the rib at one end,
and put one rivet in the center, just to hold it in place.
Now we can rivet the corners through the channels
and then add one more between the corner and the center
rivet.
All the panels have been completed,
and we're ready to put this thing together.
Give each panel a wee shake-off, just get rid of any filings.
They can cause rust and reduce the life of your shed.
Stand up the back wall, then bring the left wall in
and fix from the outside, about 100 millimeters down
from the top and 100 millimeters up from the bottom.
Then do the same for the right-hand wall,
checking to make sure the walls are sitting flat on the bottom.
Bring the front wall into place and attach in the same way.
We'll finish joining the corners by adding rivets approximately
200 to 300 millimeters apart.
You'll find it easier to drill these corners if they
are supported from the inside.
And now we're ready to use the concrete floor
clamps to fasten the shed to the base using an electric drill
and masonry bit.
Our shed is going on a concrete base,
but Storite also supply wooden floor packs.
Now we're ready to lift the roof into position.
At the ends, add rivets through the L
flashing into the top channels of the wall.
Then place more rivets at 300-millimeter intervals.
On the roof, add rivets beside every second rib,
down into the top channel of the front and back walls.
And there she is, a brand new garden
shed, ready to fill, easy as.
For all the help and advice you need to get the job done, just
head down to Mitre 10.