Welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan last week we made the carriage
stopped for a dial indicator and you may have noticed that there was an extra
hole on the end that wasn't used so this week we're making a multiple stop
fixture that rotates so you can dial in whichever stop you need this is mainly
for batch work when you have a lot of parts that you want different lengths to
be accurate and we use threaded bar and six millimeter nuts so make the stops so
let's go into the workshop and see how we make it
This is a piece of 12mm mild steel I just want to turn the end down to about 4.5mm
now I want to turn the outside down to 1Omm
I'm just setting my parting off tool. put a square on the chuck up against the
edge of the tool slacken the tool holder off and move the tool holder until it's
square to the chuck then lock the tool holder
I'm making another one exactly the same
Put a large centre drill in and I'm only going to use the tip of it
just holding his piece of off-cut steel that that can just drop into if I
hold that in the vice then a lot of the heat generated will go through the vice
jaws and take a bit longer to warm up I'm going to solder the ball in just
so I don't lose it there's a bit of flux this is just electrical flux
small amount of solder in there the ball in
Normally bubbles at the bottom as the air escapes and then
that balls dropped back down now you can see the air coming at the balls
moving
as it cools down the ball will stick to that hole
it's cooling down.
okay so it's assembly time so we take the spring that fits
over this end and the other end goes on to make a little unit.
I've put the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe put a 40mm diameter bar in there
I've just faced it trued up the OD and center drilled it.
now I'm going to drill an 8mm hole about an inch deep
Because I will be parting this off
I'm just setting my tool post drill spindle the way I've done that is to
put a centre in this end on the other end
Put an 8mm centre drill and if you remember we've drilled a 8mm hole
So I'll put that in the the bore bing the center in with the tool post
and the tool adjustment slack, that lines it up between the two.
if I put a little pressure on the tool post clamping it when I take this
center out if this is adjusted too low you'll see the end of the shaft go down
if it's too high you'll see at the end of the chef's come up that's not moving.
I can lock this up the tool post and the tool height adjuster.
Knowing that the tool post drill is parallel up and down
and also parallel in and out
so take the tail stock off. I know that the centre drill held in the tool post chuck is now
zeroed take the drill out and swap it for the drill I need to use
wind the cross slide out 13mm and reset to zero.
I found a piece of metal I'm putting under the chuck jaws I want to put four holes around this
I'm using the chuck jaw onto this block as a stop I've used the chuck key just to hold the chuck onto that.
Fitted my drill electric drill on the end and I'm just going to spot these for position
index round to the second position.
Now because I want to control the depth and drill that out to 5mm
I'm not going to use my spindle post drill
I could do but what I'm going to use is the pillar drill to do that I've marked
the position so I know they're in the right area so the next job take off all
the sharp edges and part that off
I've just changed my tool and I've put a chamfer on the inside edge.
return the parting off tool
The parting off tool broke I've got a piece of parting off tool tip jammed in
the steel which I can't get out so I can't use a parting off. I will saw it off
If I had put another tip on and put the tool back in the part of tungsten carbide that's
stuck in here would have only just smashed the next tool.
So I'll just face this off now
That's the part I've set the part in the pedestal drill located on the hole.
Centre drilled I'm just going to drill through each hole right there way
through with a 3mm drill
I've changed to a centre drill and I've just picked up on the 3mm bore
I used my drill to put the tap in M6 hole
On this one I've set the clutch to about thirteen fourteen for a M6.
8mm bolt that goes through the middle it needs to stick out enough to
go through this part which is the dial indicator or carriage stop we made that
goes through here this was the second hole I drilled in the bar the dial
indicator goes in this one so you remove the brass bush that we made putting that
through found its easiest if you let the plunger go right in put the washer on
first tighten this up
tighten it tight and then just back it off a bit so you can move it.
the ball bearing goes into the center drill marks that we made on the back and locks it into position
you lock up the block on the carriage tighten these up
then in the holes on this side I'm just using 6mm cap heads
but you could use 6mm threaded bar
just chop it to the length you need
this is just an example you lock those in position then when you're doing repetition work
You can set these were ever you need them or cut cut them down so you come into
that stop then you can turn this round move into that stop rotate it around and
come into the second stop it's mainly for repetition work but it's another use
of the block so once you finish with this you can put the dial indicator back in
You have got some adjustments on here with a nut fine adjustment but you need
to get a bar if you use threaded bar you can just flatten the end of the bar
but you may need to make this diameter bigger depending on how high you surface is
and where the location of your stop face is.
On that you could put three in
Turn it to the next one then the next one
you just need to check the
diameter of this two your clearance on the top so that they clear
well that's it for today I hope that was useful and we'll see you next time on
Enots engineering