There's a few words most people might associate when they think about Venezuela.
Dangerous, destroyed, destitute. But that's really only half the story. Some things here are far better
than most people might imagine, and others are far worse. Venezuela is reconnecting to
the world after a long period of isolation. More and more airlines are starting to fly
here. But I wanted to know if Venezuela is ready to welcome back international tourists.
This is the scene that greets holiday makers at the harbour
of Puerto la Cruz. Conferry was expropriated by the Chavez government, accused of poor service.
Now many of its vessels are wrecks. But other ferries do function, taking tourists
to the island they call the Pearl of the Caribbean, Isla Margarita. International tourists once
flocked here, attracted by the island's many resorts and its low tax status.
But now mostly only Venezuelans come. Our driver takes us across the island,
past fishing villages, to what used to be the most desirable destination.
The beautiful Playa El Agua. A long stretch of white sand with windswept waves.
But take a step back from the shore, and it's a different picture. Empty shops stretch along
the promenade. Hotels sit empty, unfinished or collapsing.
Foreign tourists were scared away after a series of robberies in which several people
were killed. It seems Playa El Agua's glory days are behind it, and it's hard to imagine
they're ever coming back.
But elsewhere on Margarita, things are looking brighter.
Playa El Yaque is where most of the action is these days. Hotels here can cost several
hundred dollars a night. And some Venezuelans can afford to pay that. But the wind is free. Kitesurfers
flock to Playa El Yaque for its consistent breeze and its flat sea. Or you can rent a table,
order a drink and watch the sky fill up with sails.
Or the sheltered cove of Pamaptar, with its calm waters and beachside eateries, where
you can enjoy a coconut-creamed cocktail, a perfect Margarita sunset, and awake to a
delicious seafood breakfast.
Empanada con camarones. Empanada with shrimp for breakfast. Delicious!
This is how many island-goers start their day: at an outdoor empanadaria.
In some countries, empanadas are baked and small.
But here, they're huge and fried. It's really best not to think about the nutritional value.
The vacation vibes continue after sunset. Previously tourists were advised not to go
out at night. But the situation has improved.
There's quite a thriving nightlife scene here on the island of Margarita.
There's nightclubs to go dancing at, until 4 a.m., there's bars to drink out at night. It's quite safe here
as long as you take local's advice about where to go and what precautions to take.
There's restaurants for most budgets, from seafood to streetfood. But don't expect a bargain.
Venezuela might be struggling, but it's not cheap. A night out here can cost as much
as in most European or US cities.
Isla Margarita seems to have left its worst days behind. The cruise ships haven't returned,
but Venezuelans and adventurous travelers are giving the island a second chance.
Back on the mainland, an overnight bus trip brings a reminder of the risks on the road.
We're in a regional part of Venezuela. We're stopped here. The road in front of us is closed.
The national guard has closed the road, and we're waiting for them to form up a convoy
so we can pass through the area directly ahead. The fear is that armed groups might raid the buses,
trucks and cars as we pass through this region. So we're just here waiting. We don't know
how long the road is going to be closed. Hopefully not too much longer.
Eventually we're on our way to Venezuela's
main mountain town, Mérida. Nestled in the northern tip of the mighty Andes range.
Venezuela's highest peak Pico Bolívar is close by. Mérida is famous for its teleferico, one of
the longest and highest cable car systems in the world. But when we visit, it isn't running.
Locals say poor maintenance has forced it to close.
Since our visit it has partially reopened. But you still can't go all the way to the top.
There are, however, other ways to get to a good view. But first, a local breakfast. Mérida's cold
climate is best met with a traditional dish so common it's not even on the menu. A piscandina
is a hot soup of milk, spiced with cilantro or coriander, some potato and a poached egg.
Served, like so much Venezuelan cuisine, with a sprinkling of cheese and an arepa. The recipe
is based on the most common items in a mountain farmhouse, as our chef explains.
And it is – delicious.
We hire a driver and head up the mountains.
Through towns with their colonial architecture, along scenic roads,
temporarily blocked by a religious procession. In Venezuela, always expect a
delay, even if delightful. We pass through Venezuela's highest altitude
village, and reach the Sierra Nevada national park, with its glacier-formed lagoons
and sweeping views of the mountains. Some of these peaks are taller than the European Alps,
though most only catch snow for just a few months of the year.
The thin oxygen can make breathing a challenge. Some prefer to go on horseback.
But the reward for hiking is enjoying a steaming swim at over 3,000 meters above sea level.
Well after a big walk like that, all you feel like is jumping in some hotsprings.
So let's go.
Water of up to 40 degrees celcius pours from
the rocks into these aguas termales. Activities like this used to draw crowds of European and American
adventure-seekers. But Venezuela's years of hardship have kept most of them away.
Even few Venezuelans visit Mérida these days. When they holiday, they mostly prefer the seaside.
At first light the boats set out for the stunning islands of the Morrocoy marine national park.
It's a popular day trip for residents of the capital Caracas. They come here to relax on one of the
many small islands, ringed by sand and crystal seas, perfect for watersports.
What's amazing aside from the beauty is the number of luxury boats about. Some Venezuelans
still have money to spend despite the years of crisis.
Well aftervisiting an island paradise like this, it's easy to forget about the problems
that this country faces. I had very low expectations before I visited Venezuela, which is probably
why I've spent most of my time here being pleasantly surprised at how things here
aren't as terrible as many people expect them to be.
Venezuela is a country rich with incredible experiences,
where you can find spaces of freedom, dance until sunrise, eat til you burst.
But it's also a place of extreme poverty, where some basic services don't function, many people hustle
to get by, and politics overshadows everything. My trip was only possible thanks to friends
and guides who kept me safe and informed. The situation here is constantly changing.
And one visit will not be the same as the next. If you choose to come to Venezuela, you'll be arriving
in an entirely changed country.