hello I'm Robin Whalley welcome to this second video in my new mini series the
series is looking at how I edit this image to come up with a finished version
if you miss the first video I'll put the link in the detailed information below
in this second video I'm looking at how I convert the raw file and I'm using
Capture One Fuji Edition now there is a free Capture One version for Fuji which
is very good now don't worry if you're not using Capture One the process is
very similar in most other raw converters it's more important to
understand the concepts of what I'm doing if you're not familiar with the
interface it's arranged here in a series of tabs along the top left and each of
these has a set of tools in it at the moment I'm just looking at the exposure
evaluation I'm going to start though with the lens correction module which is
the next tab in there I can do several things but the key thing I want to do is
this diffraction correction what it actually does is it allows for any
diffraction in the lens because I've been shooting at a fairly small aperture
and it will correct that and sharpen up the image if i zoom in to 200% you might
be able to see what I mean here you can see the bridge in the distance if I turn
off the diffraction correction it softens turn it back on and it sharpens
it up the other thing that I've got is the chromatic aberration on because
where you can see these branches against the edge of the lake here there's a
little bit of chromatic aberration if I turn it off you can see the colored
fringe one thing you can do in this is analyze the image so that you get a
specific chromatic aberration correction and that's a little bit better than the
default
I'll zoom back out now and I no need to look at the next panel which is the
color adjustment panel now in here you can see that I'm working on the
background image and this represents the entire image you can see on screen I
have the option to add layers and adjust those layers individually and I'll do
that in just a moment first though I want to create an overall
well-balanced image the first thing I'm going to do is correct my or change my
curve you've got a various different curves in here which you can apply if
you're using Lightroom that's very similar to the camera profile
adjustments you can apply now I'm actually going to use the film standard
adjustment here it makes a nice job of the image and it tends to open up the
shadows in the Heather which I was worried about previously so that's an
improvement on the contrast level next I want to adjust the white balance now the
image is rather blue at the moment so I just want to warm it up very slightly
and I may actually increase the pink tint just very slightly as well now I
don't want to go overboard at this stage I certainly don't want these distant
hills looking orange and that looks about right to start with the other
thing I can do is adjust the shadows independently so you've got this color
balance option here and I can go to the shadows and I can actually say well I
want them to appear blue and I can increase the saturation of the blue in
the shadows no that's actually picking up some of the Heather as well so why
don't I go to a magenta bluey color and that looks about right I could also
do the same with mid-tones if I want to and you can see that applies an
adjustment to mainly the Heather but also the sky to some effect and you can
adjust that and how you want it to look so I'm just going to move it more to the
Reds and I'm also good to just dumb it down very slightly I'm then going to
move on to the highlights and those I want to be more yellow and I can
can those down a little bit as well now having made those adjustments I'm not
happy with the tent I think it looked better when it was the original tent
which is just a little bit less than that let's move on to try to address
some of the other colors in here now one of the things I can do is use this color
editor and in here I've got a picker tool and I can actually pick the Heather
to adjust it and here you can see the original color in here you can see the
adjusted color so I can now increase my saturation of that color and I can also
darken down the Heather very slightly because that has the effect of
intensifying the color and making it stronger I can also push the hue for
that Heather over to more of the orangey red end or I could pull it back and make
it more blue I'm gonna put it more to the orangey red so you can see here
we've got a blue a magenta color and this is a warm and magenta color now the
other area I want to sample is this grass and I want the grass I'm just
going to widen that slightly and I want the grass to have less saturation and I
want it to look a little bit darker and I'd like to just warm it with very
slightly as well so I'm happy with that finally I'm just going to pick on the
yellow in the sky which happens also be the same as the grass in that so
I'm just gonna have to reduce the hue just very slightly just to balance out
between the two I'll adjust the sky independently in a moment because trying
to adjust the grass and the sky at the same time causes the image to fight with
itself so what I need is a separate layer that I'll be able to adjust that
on independently and I'll show you that in just a moment let's then have a look
at the exposure panel and this is where we're going to correct some of our
problems now at the moment the highlights are just a bit too bright so
I can use this dynamic range slider here to pull down that brightness and recover
it so I'm happy with that that is created a good dynamic range in the sky
and I can do the same with the shadows now that will open up the shadows in the
image which you can see over here I've got the levels adjustment and I can
actually make the levels here the black level just a little bit darker so that
the blacks in the image become more of a true black or I can soften it very
slightly which I'll do open the shadows just a little bit more and now I can go
and balance out my exposure settings now contrast if I push it up it just makes
the image look a bit ugly what I want to do is reduce the contrast now as I've
done that you can see up here in the histogram it's opened out the shadows
even further so again we haven't gotten much of a black point in the image one
of the things I can do though is use the exposure slider and if I move the slider
over to the left it darkens the image down quite nicely the brightness slider
though can be used just to lift some of those shadows a little bit further and
all the time that I'm doing this you can see the shape of the histogram is
gathering into the center and flattening out so I'm lowering my contrast and
we're at the point where we can tackle the adjustments independently now and
we'll tackle the sky and the other area is
this heather in the foreground I'm quite happy with the hills in the distance and
the middle area to create a new adjustment layer I can add a layer here
and you can see that's being created we'll call this sky
and now I'm going to actually create the area that I want to adjust and I'm going
to use this linear gradient mask and you'll find that you've got something
similar if you're using Lightroom and a lot of other rock converters have this
feature in there as well so then I start by just drawing out the mask and the
selection that I want to make I'm reasonably happy with that what I can do
now is use it to increase the contrast in that area or I could reduce the
exposure but what I'm going to do is use this recovery just to recover the
highlights a little bit more I'm also going to open up the shadows slightly
because this area up here as we said in the first video it's just a little bit
too dark now I quite like that but I also want it to be a little bit more
saturated and especially the saturation in the Pink's so I'm back now in the
color adjustments and what I can do is pick the pink in the sky and I'll
saturate that more now it's a little bit narrow at the moment so I'll just widen
out the range of colors that we're affecting and I want to blend that more
evenly into the sky now I can adjust a hue to make it appear a little bit more
orange and I can also make it darker or lighter now I'm just going to reduce the
saturation down a little bit because I've made it too strong but overall I
quite like that effect if I wanted to I could adjust further the Kelvin scale
here to make it warmer or cooler I'm just going to make it that little bit
warmer and we could adjust a tint to make it a little bit Pinker as well now
overall that's really really strong so I'll go back to the exposure layer and
I'll adjust the saturation back down and I might actually just increase the
exposure level as well so all the time I've been working on the
sky layer and I've had access to all the same controls that I had previously I'm
now going to add another sky layer and this time I'm going to be drawing it
just here so you can see the selection
and I'm going to use this now to lighten the exposure so just call it sky two and
now I'm going to open up the shadows in sky two and I'll probably brighten it as
well I'm not too happy with the adjustment yet so I'm just gonna move it
down a little bit further just so it covers more of the sky and there we are
I'm quite happy with that now the third layer know that I want to create is one
where I select the Heather in the foreground so we can see that being
selected what are the problems I've got when I select this prop play is that it
spills over into the water here now what I can do about that is use this luma
range filter and I'll just display the mask and now I can use this so that the
adjustment doesn't affect the bright areas
which you can see that know that I've got my selection in place I can adjust
the brightness or the exposure and I can reduce the contrast as well finally
the saturation in that area so that's starting to look a little bit better
again I've got my curves that I can use and
that's intensified the color in the Heather quite nicely and all I've done
is adjusted the exposure values really and just adding in a small amount of
saturation again what I could do is go back and target the specific color that
I want to use so go to the basic editor this time and we'll add in sorry the
I'll use the advanced editor just so I can up this improperly and I'm going to
just boost the saturation in the Heather and we can push the hue slider over to
the right just to warm up the heather as well
though to be honest I don't actually like that so I'm just going to reset it
and this time I'm actually just gonna warm it up very slightly in that area
now what I'm trying to get to is a reasonable starting position I'm not
trying to complete the adjustments in the editor and this looks like a
reasonable starting point for further adjustments that I'm going to make in
Photoshop using the Nik collection and then after that Photoshop itself one of
the thing I want to do though before I move on is just check the sharpness now
if you zoom in to 200% I'm just going to move around so we can see them the
distant Hills need a little bit more sharp link now I need to select the
background layer because I want to apply all my sharp link to the background
layer I'm just going to increase the amount I'm just going to reduce the
threshold very slightly and we can 100% that's done a very very good job of
pulling out loads of detail in the image now I know I complained in the first
video about how sharp this lens is but that's not a problem because when I
later soften this down you'll understand what's happened so back to looking at
the overall image there's the adjusted image that was the
starting image and if you compare the two you can see it's made a substantial
improvement to the overall image in the next video
I'll look at how we can adjust this further using some of the Photoshop
tools and the Nik collection I'm Robin Whalley
you've been watching Lenscraft I'll see you in the next video