good morning YouTube so I'm getting ready to hook up my liquid crystal display controller
here to the printer hand for a mount here to show you that so what I did on these brackets
was I think they were set up to clip over some sort of piece of hardware on another printer so
what I did just cut the the top tabs off here they used to come out equal to these bottom tabs which
have a slot for a screw and then I took a piece of 3/16 by 2 flat bar drilled and tapped a couple
of holes for two screws and then I put a little bit of electrical insulation vinyl paint on there
for a little bit of stick and then this is just enough to slide under the lip of the printer here
and this is an old monitor stand with a keyboard drawer underneath and that makes just a perfect
mount for my display controller and I don't have to modify the printer at all I can run the ribbon
cables out here and then the cover plate will just go right down over those once I get the
printer working again I'll print out a knob and then I can drop that on there so the thing I have
to do now this is the Rumba board here and here's the USB cable that comes out of the USB hub that
they put in here I showed you that in an earlier video so what I need to do is bring my laptop up
here and disconnect this USB cable plug the laptop and power up the machine so the board gets power
so you have to power it from the printer and the power supply but hook up the USB cable so I'll
let me go grab my laptop I'll bring that up here and we'll see if we can flash the firmware ok here
we got my laptop this is an old gateway laptop running Windows XP and I found that even though
it says software is not tested with XP if you just go ahead and load the drivers anyway I've got the
Arduino IDE already running here finish it's clear this it's a now it's comm 8 get board info Arduino
mega that looks good and let's do serial monitor there type a machines look at that so that's the
current firmware that's running in there Marlin one dot one dot zero from April 2016 so that was
just before I got the machine so what I've got is this is the latest Marlin firmware so there we go
compiled I guess now is the moment of truth so I'm gonna do upload I'm a zoom in on the rhumba there
you can see the I guess that's the receive LED the orange or yellow whatever color that is ah
there we go look at that room ready so there we got the screens I'll shut the printer down and
then I'll unplug the laptop there and then this is the cable from the internal hub so the this
way the BeagleBone black and talk to the rumba board so let's turn that back on here see what
happens so there we got our boot up screen right there we remember ready we'll do nozzle let's just
turn it up to let's see yeah I got to go up to 220 so we'll do 220 and look at that there's the
red light on on the extruder on the side there oh there's the fan so the fan turned on it's warmed
up yeah actually that's that's working pretty good down here wow that is pretty neat because one of
the problems I've noticed I've got octoprint running on my tablet here and one of the things
that never seemed to work was the temperature display the right here scooter temperature and
I think here it's picking up my bed temperature so that's looking good and I just plugged in an
SD card right here I have my octoprint or octo droid display here's I just changed filament so
that works from octo droid here and then I can also control the printer from downstairs from
the web browser so now what I want to do print from so this is a file I loaded on the SD card
that I plugged into the controller and this is a knob go right there so let's just see if we can
do that you can see here we've got the temperature I set it to 220 and we're getting coordinates are
updating let's see if the printer prints here looks like it's going there's the outline now
I do not have the auto bed leveling enabled I left that code turned off the idea was I wanted
to make sure the printer still worked with the new firmware so I can build the new firmware and
I've enabled the LCD controller so that looks like that's working yeah there you can see the
coordinates are updating oh yeah that's handy to be able to see the Z parameter so I'm printing at
point three millimeter layer height with a point six millimeter nozzle so the Z is correct that's
up one thing I've always wanted to be able to see is how far up you are so if I know for instance
a particular model is say 25 millimeters tall I can just look at the Z parameter and if it's it
twelve and a half millimeters it's halfway done at least layer wise the other thing I can check I've
got the fan running and I think I have it set to I forget how many millimeters up I have it set for
full speed but now I can see how the fan speed on the parts cooling fan ramps up with the Z height
and the parts cooling fan is up to the full so I think that's working now there we finished
return to the home position so there's our part it's like I got to clean out the opening there
yeah the bottom you can see how it just shifted there I think my filament you all must have been
a little bit Jam there but if that's the only problem that's pretty easy to fix now there we
go so there's my knob yeah that's a little easier to use so we have all these parameters you can
get to I don't know these I'm not gonna mess with cuz those have all been set by a type a machine so
I think I will not fool with those no and here's ya here's the temperature of 250 max there's your
PID control parameters o preheat temperature oh there we go uh-huh so you can set up your default
parameters there that'll be nice if I have just a few things on the SD card and I don't want to run
back downstairs to load something from the main computer as for instance I could have these are my
battery holders what I probably will do is get a good g-code file put it on the SD card and then I
can just print right from the SD card and I don't have to mess around with uploading the file and
changing things I can just have a file on the SD card that's known good and I just come up here and
hit print but guess the only thing you can't do from here is you can't access the contents of the
SD card on the BeagleBone black I have some files loaded here so I've got these files and then I've
got these files Sauk Detroit doesn't see these and this one doesn't see the so it's not a perfect
setup and it's just easier to get to here because I don't have to switch through all the different
screens and I get to see the actual outputs of the of the parameters it's octo droid for some reason
just doesn't show any like on the positioning it doesn't show any coordinates here it it doesn't
ever update the temperatures that's kind of nice I lucked out so I think that'll do for now I've
got this running and now my printer is at least back into operating condition then once I work
up a little courage I'm gonna try turning on the auto bed leveling code that's in the firmware and
see how that works I think I could turn this over to ya this is the other thing I might try at the
first some of the people have been having trouble with the nozzle crashing into the built a sheet
if that happens you're out $25 sheet of buildtak because it'll just rip it right off the bed so I
think what I might want to do is I'll play with it first with the sheet flipped over and just
make sure that you know I could probably like put some glue stick on there just to see but will work
for a test print that might actually work yeah for now I think this is a good quitting point I've got
something working and I will call that good for now so yeah if you have any comments or questions
post up in the comment section below I'll put links to all the things I used here the display
the case and knob I'll put those in the video description and as always thanks for watching