How's everybody doing and thanks for watching. This is George over here at Wicked Warnings in the new
expanded shop, still under construction. What are we looking at there but a brand new 2021 F-150.
What you're seeing in the front grille right now is a four-inch light made by SoundOff. It's called an
mpower. I'm gonna link you to all of these lights and everything you'd need to do this very same
job on your own in the description and I'm going to try to give you as much detail about the job
at the end of the video as I can. Those lights are mounted in the grille via the 3m double stick tape
and our Primer 94 adhesion promoter. There was no holes that were needed to be drilled in the grille
to use those lights where they are. I'm able to put a little bit of RTV on various select spots
right before you stick the light to add just a little bit more bond but I've had no problems
bonding that light right to the grille opening on these newer F-150's. That's an amber-white light. You
can see it's alternate flashing alternate color. You can set this up with all amber if you prefer.
You could also get any number of other custom order colors if you need this in a red, or a blue,
or any other color, just give us an email and we'll custom order for you. What we have on the website
in stock is as shown, the amber white version, but you feel free to change it up if you like. Alrighty,
around the back, we're running our Wicked Warnings Auto Flasher module on the cargo light and the
factory LED reverse lights, as well as the same family of light, the SoundOff mpower but in a
three inch version right next to the rear license plate and you can also see there in the badge.
I have turned off the lights in the shop but it is unfortunately very sunny. You can see the skylight
and our shop door lights are kind of drowning it out. So I'll get you a closer shot in a moment.
Regarding those factory lights that are flashing, the reverse and the cargo, that is done via a wire
swap modification and basically the way you do that is behind each tail light, you'll be removing
one of the factory wires from the connector, very easy procedure, and you'll be replacing
it with a wire from our kit. On the cargo light, you'll be cutting one factory wire. It's located
on the passenger side sill plate by the door jamb. It's a very easy procedure to do and we provide full
instructions on how to modify those circuits. Now you won't lose any factory function. Your
cargo light and your reverse lights still work perfectly normal when you're not in flashing mode
and you will just need to add a toggle switch to activate the flashing mode. Once again,
that's our Auto Flasher product and the SoundOff mpower 3-inch by the license plate, as well as in
the badge. Here's a little better shot of the badge there. This is a fairly easy procedure to mount
in the badge. The wiring does slide through the badge venting without needing to drill any holes.
The badge removes very easily from the fender. It's just held on with a little bit of double stick
tape and about five of the body snap pins. It's like a metal snap clip, very easy to remove with a
plastic pry bar set and you can access the wiring from the badges to under the hood extremely easy
from under the hood. So these badges are a nice easy install. The wiring goes through the sixth
hole down by the way, if you're wondering when you do the install and I'll put any info I have
from a previous video about the badge install at the end of the video. Alrighty, I just want to
take you around the truck here, show you a little bit of close-up of how we mounted the lights with
the lights off. There you can see that three inch mpower mounted right there behind the badge or in
the badge rather. The wiring's all ran right behind it. Nice and discreet. Works extremely well for the
side and corner-back warning here. Here you can see where we mounted that four inch mpower in the
grille. Now we've put some protecting loom over the wire and what we've actually done is run the wire
straight up this way and behind the grille and over that way. I'll show you a little bit more detail. I
like this mounting. We leave a little bit of slack in the wire in case you need to remove the grille.
You really can't even see it when you back away from the truck. It disappears with all the
black plastic back there and it's completely unnoticeable. Now we do need to
run that wire that way because this truck has the active shutters which is kind of like a venetian
blind behind the grille and it closes up in the cold to help the truck warm up faster. So if your
truck has the active shutters, you don't want to be running any wiring or anything through those
shutters. So you have no choice but to bring the wiring around in front of the shutters one way
or another. There's several different methods to do this. If you have a preference to a different
method, by all means, go ahead and do that one. This one here I liked and I'll explain why.
Okay so here's what we're going to go into a little bit more technical detail on this
video to try to show you guys how I wired it. I get asked that a lot. How do you wire it? How do you
wire it? So because we're gonna offer this as kind of an all-in-one package, I'll show you what we did
and kind of go over it here. Okay, pardon the shaky camera but the first thing I'm going
to talk about is the grille. Now you don't necessarily have to take all this stuff off
and it's a lot of fasteners. So if you don't want to take it off, this is why we
chose this method here. Here's what we did. That is the hole that we drilled right there
and that keeps the wire completely away from all of those shutters that are right back there. Okay,
and then we took the wire from there, I split loomed it, and we just came right this way.
We ran it right in here and right here I put about 24 inches of extra wire before running the
wire into our main harness here. Okay, this is our main harness. It's going to go along this way. It
goes over this way and it ends up here, over here at the battery with one of our fuse kits. You can
see we have labeled this fuse here. Sorry, my focus is fighting with me but it's labeled. We go 5 amp max.
So it has a fuse kit at the battery. We have our line from our fender that comes over this way
as well. Everything is running this way. We split loomed it nice. The split loom you have to get
on your own. We ran it this way across here. Tied it off. We were able to go right under this here.
Now over here is the exact same procedure. You can see right in the front here where we drilled that hole
and we were able to run the wiring right here. Now I didn't- again, I didn't remove any of this stuff
which is awesome. Saves time and the grilles on these are not coming off all that often. I could
put a connector here if you like. If you want to put a Molex connector or a deutsch connector,
feel free. I put 24 inches of wire there and that's more than enough to take the grille out and
set it down out of the way, replace the radiator, whatever you have to do and put the grille back.
If you need to separate it, you can but I like to keep all the harnesses nice. So I
kept my main harness here. Everything's taped up. We went down this. Went underneath here,
we came around here, and then we went down through the factory boot right there.
Right underneath that nipple on the right side we just very nicely exposed it on the inside,
cut a hole with one of our wire insertion tools, and fed the wiring through there. Now you'll
notice how the wiring comes out and goes down. That's called a drip leg. You don't ever want
to run the wiring straight in like that because water will wick down the wire and into the truck.
If water wicks down this coating here, right now it'll go down and drip off. It won't go up the wire
and through the boot. So that little bitty bend, that little leg there, the drip leg, is kind of
important. So make sure that you do that when you do your vehicle. So that's how we ran the wiring
here. Now how do we run the wiring out back you say. Alright, so your Auto Flasher module for your
reverse mounts right back here behind this lens. We're going to tie it up nicely. We're going to
tie into the reverse wire there. We're going to tie into the reverse wire here. It's a pin swap
no cut install. You're not going to cut any factory wires back here. You're simply going to pop one out,
put in a replacement, I got a whole video on it. Okay, so these, I simply extended the wire
for those and I brought it up over and on to here. Alright, here, I ran my 18-5 power control for
the Auto Flasher Kit forward along the frame and into the dashboard switch. I was able to tie off
of the 18-5 here with our 22-5 to these two lights right here. Okay, now the 22-5 is a universal wire.
It has function written on it. You can feel free to only use two red and black if you
want but we did synchronize these two lights. So I ran the 22-5 from each light up to back
here, connected it with the power ground for the Auto Flasher to the 18-5, and ran that forward.
So hopefully that solves the what we did back here. Now that 22-5 that we were running, that's going to
be about 15 feet of 22-5 back here. Now back up to the front as well, I'm going to say another 15
feet of the 22-5 for the front lights. That'll give you enough to give you sufficient slack for
the grille lights and the 22-5 is what gives you the ability to synchronize the lights together. The
badge lights along the side here, now I didn't feel the need to synchronize those to anything. So we're
actually running those on an 18-2, a nice longer one that comes up this way, it comes along here,
goes all the way around that way and goes into the truck. Now underneath the split loom here,
you're going to join these wires together. You're going to create your own harness. I
don't have the exact schematics on how to tie that all in because that's fairly easy.
It's just power and ground and synchronization. That little bit of work, I'm sorry, you guys are
going to have to kind of do on your own but the 18-2 is what we're using to run the badges
and I'm going to say I'm going to include 25 feet of the 18-2 for the badges. Now we're running
the power and ground wire here. I'm going to do 25 feet of a 16-2 power and ground and a fuse kit.
Okay so that'll get your 16-2 power and ground from the battery and you can
ground- here's where we grounded right here on the side. We're actually grounded right here on the
side. Factory ground terminal right there and you can see our wire runs right around here like
this. So we zip tied it up. So we've got the 16-2 wire. We've got the 18-2. We've got the 22-5.
We've got the fuse kit. We've got the Auto Flasher. The last thing I'm going to also talk about
is over here on the Cargo Light Auto Flasher. That is actually going to install right in here.
It wires in very easily here and there will be an 18-5 power control wire connected to it that'll go
this way and this way and end up over in the corner at your switch. Okay, so that's all included
in the Cargo Auto Flasher Kit. So that already comes pre-packaged, as well as the 18-5 for the
Reverse. The Auto Flasher Kit has everything you need and we're also including the wiring for these
mpowers as well. So in here, I'll show you a little bit about my switch location.
This is where we did the switch and I will say one thing that this switch needs to go over this
way about an eighth of an inch. I had to just take away a little bit of a plastic edge
in there to make it fit there. So it could just go over and the easy way to find the good
spot to lay that switch right there is I used like a nickel and when I laid the nickel, I could see if
it was curved enough or if the switch was going to lay nicely. I like that switch right there because
you cannot really drive away without noticing that your LEDs are on and on this particular trim,
this truck right here, that switch worked well right there. We were able to-
there we go. We were able to get that switch wiring right down back behind here. I popped this open and
I wired everything behind there and that's how we did it. So if you like that location, like I
said, the word of advice would be to just simply slide this switch just a little bit more
to the left and that way, you're clear of the panel. You'll see there's a straight piece
of plastic that goes in there. It kind of gets in the way, so but I do like that switch location.
I like that blue color too. So we'll include other video from a previous build to give you a
little bit more in-depth info on the grille and a couple other things I did. If you like that,
you can go from there and any questions, just drop us an email or drop a comment. Thanks
again for watching Wicked Warnings. Hopefully you enjoy this build and I'll see you again soon.