Hello I'm Alan and welcome to another Enots engineering in today's video we'll start
making a prototype lever for moving the table on the cutter grinder this is a
two-part video we'll check is milling or turning a block in the lathe is quicker
and we also have another quick tip so let's get into the workshop shop
alright so I've taken this 40 mil bar putting the four jaw Chuck the main
reason for that is that I'd have to leave it sticking out further in the 3
jaw because the bore the three jaw is only about an inch in this it just goes
in. I've no idea what the material is it easy cutting if anybody knows it was
painted white on the end of the bar and I don't know what the white colour is. I know it denotes
the material but I don't know what the material for white. it's one of the
offcuts I had from the steel stock holder so what I've done is just faced
it off trued up the outside I'm going to put a 5/8 bore in and then part it off
okay I've put the boring bar on and now I'll try and bore that out to
0.625"
just a quick tip when you can't extract the center in other words you wind the
tailstock right back and it still doesn't extract the center
you'll find that morse taper Center with the proper end on with the tag on
the end when that goes in it's loose when you've just where'd it fully back
so you have to let the spindle go forward then it will lock then when you
unwind it's on a Morse taper there's enough on the length so it started to
eject it now if you can take it off with a shorter Morse taper in other words it
hasn't got the Tang on the end you've lost the half-inch on the end so that
will go back this will go back a further half inch which brings it to the end of
your travel and it still has an eject you can mess about with grips to
grip it and turn it out but the easiest way I found is just get a small piece of
wood wind it back until it touches the wood now that wood is going to be just
wide enough so that we will eject the center before the center comes to the
stop so you just wind it back onto their
it comes out you just get used to doing it so people who don't know may be
struggling to get the center out. So I put the blank that I made earlier into the
tool holder clamp it down set the tool holder square to the chuck I've put it in
this fly cutter all I want to do now is put a flat face on the outside of this
maybe halfway down
so basically if you don't have a milling cutter or a fly cutter you can still use your
four jaw chuck what I've done is just just put another one in the four
jaw chuck to face a flat I just wanted to see if it's any
quicker in the chuck or by milling
I'd say it's quickly in the chuck
okay what I've done now is turn the block round with the flat of just machined on
this jaw and I want to drill a hole in the center of this and that deep
Now because I'm coming on a curve you can't really put a centre drill in there all
it's going to do is push it off and snap the end so what I'm going to do is use
an end mill to put a flat on there and once I've got the flat on I can drill
the hole in fact I might use the end mill to go in quite a way to give me a
nice surface so the only way I could line this up is by eye because you've
got nothing you can use to set it too and also you use the the guides on
the chuck I've found that it's it's going to be within a millimeter or two which is is
okay but it's not critical work all it's going to do is put a screw through here
and then when I split this ring this screw or clamp this ring up on a bar
just drop the speed because this is offset in this chuck there might be a bit of
vibration I don't know yet so lets so how it goes
I've just finished off the milling I've centre drilled and I've just drilled
through with a 5mm hole eventually this will be tapped to M6 and it
will hold this lock screw for locking so I'll put the slot in there and it will
clamp on to a bar but for now that's all I can do to that part I would say it's
quicker to do it on the lathe for facing off that part and even this parts
quicker than trying to use a milling cutter in the chuck. After all that I
found I've got a problem and that this won't fit down into that hole probably
doesn't need to do really but for the sake of a few more thou on that it would
then fit neat so what I've done go back to the boring bar
and I'll leave it at that take the sharp edge off let me show you
what we've done faced it off put a recessed hole there we've drilled
through 5mm so we have to put a split across here so that'll clamp up
and I'm just going to drill to five mil holes ready for tapping in the top.
put the slot in by saw I'm just using the layer to true up some pieces of
aluminium the way I do that is use a four jaw chuck put a parallel strip at
the back and just tighten the two jaws what I've done is already set the two
jaws below roughly so when this is clamped in the chuck it's roughly on
center there's nip up the two jaws
take the strip out
stop it to check yep that's all machined up then undo the two jaws
basically I've machined those two faces parallel.
Oh well that's it for today we hope to see you next time for part two on Enots engineering