All right, friends.
So, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle.
Once you've done that, you wanna come right upfront to this skid plate right here.
Go ahead and remove all 15-millimeter bolts that hold it in.
Now, that that's out of the way, let's come right over here to where the idler arm comes
down through this arm right here, remove the 21-millimeter nut.
Now, the next thing we would need to do to get this arm out of here, is of course try
to drop this sway bar out of the way.
If your bolts look like ours do, and you think that they're gonna be an issue, I would just
skip right past that and we'll come right up here and we'll remove the whole idler unit
right here.
To get this out of here, we're gonna use a 21-millimeter right there, and then we'll
use a 21-millimeter wrench on the nut side.
Let's put a nice piece of wood in between the frame and this bar right here, just to
make it so this bar can't go up too far while we hammer on this right there.
Now that that's out of there, we can grab right onto this and we'll get it out of the
vehicle.
Now, when you're replacing your idler arm bracket assembly here, you're gonna have to
remove it from the idler arm.
To do that, you'd remove this nut right there, and then you'd do something as simple as a
pickle fork coming in between here, or you could even use a puller to separate the two.
Odds are, if your idler arm bracket assembly is no good, more than likely at the joint
at the idler arm itself is no good as well.
In which case I would just replace the both as a pair, that's much easier that way as
you can tell.
But for the purpose of this video, I'll still show you how to get them apart.
Now to remove this, I like to have it nice and level on the ground and I'll put my foot
on it.
I'm gonna have it so it's facing down towards the left, so when I remove this and it tries
to spin, you can't go anywhere.
I'm just gonna use this pickle fork right here, put it right in between the joint, and
then give it a couple of loving bonks with my hammer.
As you can tell, the two separated at this point, this joint is no good, but that's okay,
we're replacing this anyway.
The next thing I like to do is put the unit right inside of a vise if you have access
to one.
You wanna grab onto this boot, take a look underneath there, make sure there's plenty
of grease, go ahead and push it down, that feels great.
Now we're gonna take that idler arm, set it right down on there.
Take our brand new nut.
You always wanna use a brand new nut, okay.
So, now if I use my 24-millimeter wrench and I try to tighten this, what you're probably
gonna notice is the stud on the inside is gonna start spinning once it gets to a certain
point.
Okay, so as you can see, it's spinning the stud.
Is the nut all the way down?
No it's not.
So, now we're gonna use a hex bit and you wanna use an 8-millimeter.
Come right inside there, that's gonna hold it and now we'll continue tightening this.
Make sure it's nice and tight.
That feels great.
It may be time to get our unit back up inside the vehicle here, spring it right up and in.
Behind those lines, hopefully.
Get that in the center link.
Let's get this into its bracket.
Okay, that looks decent, let's grab our two bolts.
Make sure that they have washers, there right through.
The other one, here we are.
Let's grab the washers and the nuts for the other side.
Now let's snug these up.
Now let's go ahead and torque these down to 73 foot-pounds
Torqued.
Let's get this nut on there.
Snug it up, torque this to 46 foot-pounds.
Torqued and use our locking cotter pin, slide it right on through there.
And then make sure you pin it over, so there's no way this nut can come loose.
Get this out of here.
Awesome.
Let's get this shield back up on here on, I'm gonna line up those holes.
Start in all the bolts, before I tighten any of them down.
Perfect.
The next thing that I would wanna do, is make sure that I get it down to a reputable alignment
shop.