this is how to upgrade a bmw s1000rr with an olin's rear shock and a swing arm swap
here's the 2010 bmw s1000rr and i'm going to be replacing this shock back here with
the ohlins over in the corner and the modification i'm going to start now
is going to be taking this swing arm and replacing with the polished swing arm today
looks pretty good it does need some polishing of course and i'm going to
scrape that sticker off there so i don't have to look at that just using a razor blade
i don't want to scratch the aluminum so i'm just trying to get real flat with it shallow cuts
also be careful to not cut my damn hand now to take this swing arm and replace it
with this polished swing arm first i want to clean it up and make it look as good as i can
it's got a little bit of grease here and there it is a used one so i'm going to take a little bit
of acetone degreaser clean it up and then polish it first now that i've degreased it i'm going to
take some wet dry sandpaper and try to get just some of these little tiny scratches out before
i start polishing it i know they're not all going to come out somewhere a little bit deeper over by
where the chain is but might as well try to get out some of this stuff before i start polishing
if you look close i was going to try to sand some of the surface cracks out because i thought this
was polished aluminum but when you look and you sand and it looks different than that that
means there's actually a silver paint or coat or something on it that i just sanded through
so i can't sand out the scuffs like i thought i could what i'm gonna end up doing is i just
need to polish this as best i can with just some kind of a finishing compound
that's the trick is some of this stuff when they do a paint like this it looks so close to polished
aluminum you think it actually is until you burn through the paint and i've done that before on the
old aprilia swing arm i used the finishing polish just to make it shine as much as i could with the
coating that's on there and i've got some wax i'm putting on it while it's off it's easier to get
a good coat of wax on it and then of course once it's all together i'll wash it put another coat on
first i'll pull that rear fender whatever you want to call it off just three little bolts get that
out of the way so i don't accidentally crack or scratch that while i'm doing the rest of the work
make sure the tail section so it lines up on the swing arm good now i'll take the wheel off just
the way you would normally start with a big socket to get that out pop the axle now i'm going to take
the chain guard off it's got two fasteners in there put the chain guard over here by the rear
fender i already have it up on the rear stand and now i'm going to take the rear axle nut loose
i want to do it this way so i'm pushing down against the ground versus lifting up back here
now i need to knock the axle back through i'm going to put a brace underneath here
something to kind of catch that tire when it does fall so i don't bind anything up
as you pull it through set that off to the side carefully so something doesn't scratch that axle
and then now that the wheel is clear you can kind of set this down
a little bit and watch your caliper and your uh disc here as well as your chain and sprocket on
the other side just make sure everything falls free and doesn't break something now the tire is
on the ground free of my caliper sprockets looking good over here first i'm going to try to get the
chain loose the sprocket and the carrier that off to the side make sure not to lose any spacers when
you're doing this chains clear wheels clear just roll this out of the way we want to get the rear
caliper free of the swing arm so we're just going to slide it off that ramp i'm going to hang it
up here off the passenger peg basically try to be careful not to scratch anything
and leave that up there for now because we're changing swing arms you can see the
chain actually goes through the swing arm so we have to break the chain and if you look up here
i've just been rotating around trying to find the master link that i used to put this thing on if
you look closely all the ends of the rivets have almost like a squared slash round pattern to them
but it's consistent all of them except that one right there you can kind of see
that's just round versus squared like the ones to each side of it so that must have
been the master link so that's the one i'm gonna break and then replace with the new master link
all right the master link is out you can take the chain
out of the swing arm now and put it aside and then we'll install that new master link once it's ready
now i'll take the axle adjusters out which is basically these blocks
and then these bolts and nuts for the new swing arm the blocks off loosening the jam nut
now i can just put the wrench on the end just back these out put them off to the side
i need to get that screw on the left out of there which means i'm probably gonna take the screw on
the right loose and pry that panel back or even remove it i did have to take that panel off it's
just a few screws here and one up under in the front so that i can get clear access to this bolt
down here it's kind of a pain to get to but i'll get it just takes a while but before i pull that
bolt out i need to jack up the bike so i'm going to use the points here where the footrests attach
and over here i had to remove the shift lever
so i've got those two guys on there we'll see if this works
okay risky but so far so good so this bolt over here i got it loose but i cannot get it out of
there so i'm going back here and taking apart what i can i'm going to take that bolt out of there
start the process this way after taking that bolt loose i finally got that link loose up ahead so i
had to kind of wiggle this and then use a magnet to get that big old bolt out of there it's a pain
but it's out now i'm going to take this top bolt out of the shock but before it's all the way loose
and out i need to grab the shock because that's the last thing holding it in place i think now
i took this joint loose just now that's the bottom of the shock which means that top bolt
is all that's holding it up so now i'm going to ease out that bolt and catch it on the way down
see that plate behind the bolt it's got a matching on the other side and they can go in either way
so pay attention to the way it was because if you change that you're going to affect
the geometry of the bike so i marked them with a t on the top surface and then the orientation
and everything that came out of the bike i've also laid all these items out here
in the configuration that they came out as well to make sure i don't get confused putting those back
you can see the shock is not going to go down through that hole in the swing arm so now it's
time to actually take the swing arm loose starting over here i removed the nut and the washer again
same configuration now you're going to need a spanner wrench of some kind this is one i had
that was close that i just might modified a little bit but ideally use the bmw part number and it's
actually cheaper than what these other ones are but you need something as a spanner to loosen
this castle nut out here you end up using that and just give it a little bit of slack and loosen it
and then you'll push that out towards me from the other side and be careful to mind your swing arm
of course because that's the last thing holding it still and make my socket a little bit shorter
to get the right leverage but got it off and it's loose now now that we have the castle nut loose
just use our wrench and start backing that out i want to make sure that i'm paying attention and
holding up the swing arm because that's going to fall as soon as that bolt comes through
once that pin was unthreaded i pulled it out and through while i braced
the swing arm and the shock that was sitting in it it all came out in one piece everything is
completely apart now if you have any doubt about your regulator now's the time to change that
just opened the ohlin's rear shock that came from kyle racing and this has been set and
sprung for my size and writing and it was the last one they had on the shelf for a 10 s1k
so i got it and it's going right there compression one 2 12 13 14 13. there's 13 that's 13 in 12
11 two one zero that's where it was 13 out from bottom rebound 1 2 15 16 17 17 in
six one zero and i can write those numbers down elsewhere for future reference
i gave them my weight so they selected a spring and all the settings based on that 210 pounds and
they've set the riding style up for mostly hill country back roads which is most of what i do with
an occasional track day now i'll finish taking off the last few items like the spools off the
swing arm as well as that cover looks like there's just a couple bolts on that that need to come off
the last component will be this little link that has to come off and one more on the bottom
again put things in the order they came out and the orientation so you don't mess it up later
don't forget to get all the spacers and stuff like things like this
on each side so you have those two
measure the two shocks and make sure you have the same length or you'll have problems with
geometry and you'll change the way it steers in the handles i'm gonna weigh the stock shock
5.18 pounds
because they're such a pain to get at while i'm in here i'm going to replace my regulator with a
new one that i happen to have on the shelf you can see that the torx screws have been replaced with
a hex screw that makes it a lot easier to get that regulator out down the line if you have to
without taking everything else apart i'm also adding a lock washer to it don't want to use
lock tight it'll be a nightmare getting it out lock washer gives it a little bit of stability
without being a total pain to remove later screws are in snug with their lock washers and
then all you have to do is color code the gray and black teach mating one on the regulator make
sure the connectors snap into place when you're putting it together so they're not loose and
cause you problems later i'm ready to start the installation process now so i'm going to grab my
top marked spacers and bolt that went through from this side and put those in place with the shock
and so i can hang that it's gonna be easiest to put this in before you hang the shock
that side's in got the other side in now i'm gonna carefully slip the shock into place and
carefully put the bolt through but making sure not to push that bushing on the other side out
okay that bolts in place spacings are right have not tightened it yet i'll do that in a little
bit but i want to just make sure i start getting things positioned to have everything apart took
the time to use a little zephyr on the aluminum linkage parts get them back to their factory shine
or maybe even a little bit better before i put it all together and my assembly grease on the bolt
it's going to be going through that as with any of these fasteners get out the torque wrench
make sure that bolt is tight now we need to connect that lower joint on the shock
to that link to the swing arm to that link and back into the frame
as well as these points into its mount on the frame i don't know that there's an absolutely
correct way to do it so i'm going to start just doing it in reverse of how i took it apart
which means putting this one in here first subscribe to my youtube channel
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