- Hey, YouTube viewers, this is Donnie Smith
and welcome to this video series
that is designed to help you pass the ASE Exam.
Now this video series is specifically
for the Paint Refinish and what we're gonna do
is we will go through the task and give you
the knowledge to pass the test.
What this is not, this is not really
your prep test type book, you know
it's not just test questions, you know
if you want that there is a link
down in the description you know
you can get more information about that.
And what this is, this basically goes through
all the tasks that you will need to know to pass the test.
(tires screeching)
(explosion)
In this video, we're gonna talk about
Paint and Refinish B9, which is a mix primer
primer-surfacer or primer-sealers.
Now the first thing I want to talk about
when we're talking about primers is 1K and 2K.
You know, what does the K stand for
and what does this mean?
Well the K basically just stands for Komponent.
One komponent or two komponent.
So wherever they came up with this
was in another country where they spell
component with a K and that's what confused me
for a long time just 'cause I didn't know
what the K stood for.
I knew what it meant, I knew
that it was one component and two component
but I didn't realize that the K stood for component.
'Cause, you know, here in the U.S.
we spell component with a C.
But where they come up with this
you know it's spelt with a K
and that's what it means
one component or two component.
So what does one component or two component mean?
It either means that the product is
catalyzed or not catalyzed.
One component products, 1K products
are not catalyzed.
Two component products, they are catalyzed
they have a catalyst that you have to mix with it.
So one component products might be like
a laquer primer where you have the primer
and you have a reducer, now that's something else
that you don't wanna get confused
is the reducer or the thinner that you use
to thin something to make it sprayable.
That is not considered a component.
So you might have two products
and that would still be a one component.
Or you might have a 2K product
where you have the primer-surfacer
you have the catalyst and then you have a reducer.
Even though there's three products
that's still just two components.
So if you're using a 1K product
that does not use a catalyst
there's gonna be no chemical change
it basically just reduced where it's sprayable
and then it's gonna dry by the evaporation of the solvents.
Now if it's a 2K product, 2K primer
that has a catalyst in it, there's gonna be
a chemical change, basically that primer
and that catalyst whenever they're mixed together
they basically have a chemical change
and make a new product.
It's kinda like a body filler
you got the body filler if you let that air dry
it'll get harder but it will never fully harden
because it doesn't have the other product.
You take the body filler and the hardener
the cream hardener you mix it together
it has that chemical change
and that is a new product, it fully hardens.
So if you're using a 2K primer
or any 2K product you have to use
the hardener in order to get that chemical change.
So let's talk about 1K primers
you know laquer primer has been around for years
that was one of the first primers
that I'm aware of and basically
it's just a primer and you use thinner to reduce it.
Now the problem with that is
is that there's a lot of thinner
a lot of solvents in this primer
so a lot of what you spray onto
the surface is evaporating off.
A couple problems with that
one is that's a lot of VOC
that's being released into the atmosphere
and that's what they're really concerned about
how much of that stays on the car
and how much of that is evaporating off.
And a lot of the high solid products
we have today you know more are staying on the car
and less is evaporating off.
And the second problem with that
is if you spray something and you have
a lot of mills on there and three quarters
of what you sprayed on there evaporates off
you're gonna have a lot of shrinkage.
You know the primer that's left on there
is gonna shrink down in the sand scratches.
But we do have some advanced 1K products
that work really well.
Today we have the UV primers
which is ultraviolet primer
that's basically just sprayed on
it does not mix with the catalyst
and it's dried by the sun
or they have special lamps that will dry them.
This primer works real well
it dries really fast but it may be more expensive.
They also have water borne primers that works well.
And it's higher solid you know
a lot more of what you spray on the car
stays on the car and less evaporation
so less shrinkage, less VOC's
but both of these primers may be
more expensive than you lacquer primer
or even a lot of your 2K products
that we have available today.
And self etch primer that is for corrosion protection
and it comes in 1K and 2K products
you can get it in either 1K or 2K.
Your 2K primers is like your urethanes
epoxies and self etching get in 1K or 2K.
But it is higher solid, you're gonna have less
evaporation in the lacquer primer
and it also has that chemical change
because it has the catalysts.
Urethanes probably one of the most used
primers today, although a lot of shops
are moving towards like the UV and the water borne.
But urethanes been around, it works well
it's high solids and you have less shrinkage.
Then we have the epoxies like for
corrosion protection, for bare metal
that is always a two part product, 2K product.
And it works really well.
Now regardless of if it's 1K or 2K
they're gonna need to be mixed together
either with your product, with the catalyst
with a reducer or thinner or it may
take a mixture of all three.
So every product has a mixing ratio.
For example, it may say four parts
of primer-surfacer to one part catalyst.
SO basically what that is is if you're using ounces
that's gonna be four ounces of primer
mixed with one ounce of catalyst
and you pour that in a cup
mix it together with a stir stick.
Now they also have paint cups
that are real helpful they have the measurements on there
you know, they have like four to one
three to one, two to one, they have all these
different ratios on there so you can just
find the correct ratio and mix it together
stir it up, get it ready to spray.
Now if you're using a computerized system
for example if you are using PPG's products
or Dupont's, you know, in their system
you can type in the product that you're using
and tell it how many ounces of sprayable ounces
that you want and then it will tell you
exactly how much of each product to put in.
Or if you have just a paint scale
you can use that, you can pour in
the desired amounts and weigh it.
Induction time is basically when you have these chemicals
like it's gonna be with a two part product
some chemicals are designed to be together
for a little bit before you use them
and it's usually with epoxies
and they're designed to pour in your cup
mix it up and they have to sit for an induction time
you know, like 15 minutes, 20 minutes
whatever it says on the technical data sheet.
But they need to be together before you use it.
So for example, if you're using epoxy
and on the technical data sheet
it says induction time 15 minutes
that means you gotta pour the two parts together
mix them up, let it sit
for 15 minutes and then go spray.
And this is usually just on epoxies
but look on your technical data sheet
and that's one reason it's important
to read you technical data sheet
so you'll be aware of these type of things.
The pot life is something else
that will be on a technical data sheet.
And this is basically how long
do you have to work with this product.
'Cause once you mix these chemicals together
they start doing the chemical change
and you only have so long before they
start gelling and getting hard
inside of your cup.
Now some products have a long pot life
and some have very short, depending on the product
some products are designed for production
you know like fast-paced where you get it on
in 30 minutes it's ready to sand
well the pot life might be really short.
So if you leave some primer or clearcoat
or whatever that has a really fast, short pot life
laying in the cup over lunch
you know it might be hardening
the gun, make it hard to clean.
So always look on your technical data sheet
and look for the pot life
and see if it has an induction time and things like that.
Okay I just have a couple of short questions for you.
Just kind of prepare you for the technician A
technician B 'cause that's what a lot of the ASE is on
and remember a tip to this is just answer
technician A true or false
answer technician B true or false
and then answer the question.
So technician A says all primer requires a catalyst.
Technician B says self etching primer
is available in 1K or 2K.
And of course the answer to that is B only.
Not all primers require a catalyst
not if it's 1K, that's only your 2K products.
And like we mentioned earlier in the video
you know self etching is available in 1K or 2K.
Alright one more for you.
Technician A says primer may be mixed in a mixing cup.
Technician B says primer may be mixed
with a computerized mixing system.
Who is correct?
And of course we talked about mixing cups
or if you have a mixing system you can use either one.
So both A and B are correct in this question.
It is my goal to keep these videos short
so that's all we're gonna cover in this video.
Just give you little chunks at a time
let you absorb that and then you can watch the next video.
Down below is a link to the test prep
books that I have but also there's a link
that will take you to all these videos
if you're wanting to go through more
than one video at a time take you
through the entire playlist.
So be sure to check that out
and to go through the ones that I've already uploaded
and as they become available it will also
be put on this site as well.
Thanks for watching this video
I hope this helps and good luck with your ASE exam.