Hey everyone David C. Andersen here coming at you from the
KnifeCenter and welcome to KniFAQ. This is episode 105 The
knife series where I answer all your questions whether they're
sharp or dull and this week got some good going back to basics
questions and we've got some turkey day advice since
Thanksgiving is just around the corner. Let's get into it
(KniFAQ)
all right, everyone welcome if you're new to this series, the
deal is we answer questions from the comments section of previous
episodes of this series. So if you want a chance to have your
question answered in the future, that's where you have to leave
it right underneath this video. First question today comes from
Blue koala good sir. Far too kind to me. I would like some
information regarding handle shapes, do they have names like
all of the blades? My initial reaction when I first read this
question was like, No, not really. But then it's not even
true either. Where or at least where I think of handles having
specific named shapes really goes back to you know, slip
joint knives, you know, the quote unquote, old school non
locking pocket knives as opposed to a lot of the more modern
stuff. So to illustrate what I mean I've got a bunch of case
knives here. The first is a canoe and this is a particular
pattern where the handle shape is or bears the same name as the
actual pattern of the knife itself. But the canoe shape
named because it looks like dugout canoe almost floating
along there. Works really well with the blue jig bone too it's
kind of watery anyway on purpose I didn't actually it was just a
happy accident I noticed it here while we were talking about it
though and had to bring it up because if I was really trying
to go on for one of the like the blue Kyanite ones along the nose
but I digest anyway said of Thanksgiving we're gonna be
doing some digestion soon. Enough of this tomfoolery
anyway. As I mentioned in this case, the knife itself is also
called a canoe but that's not always the case with other
patterns for instance, cases medium Stockman uses the
serpentine handle if you talked about talking to any old school
pocket knife folks and you mentioned like a serpentine this
a serpentine that they're going to know what kind of handle
shape you're talking about. In this case we're dealing with a
serpentine Stockman even though case doesn't use the word
serpentine in its product descriptions of this, no matter
they don't have to of course, because that's not quite
necessary. Closely related to the serpentine is the sow belly
pattern. And oftentimes the sow belly is a standalone pattern
here, but it's a little bit different shape you've got a
little bit more curvaceous pneus to it, shall we say. But I've
seen sow belly Stockman out there too. It's not perfectly
related to just the quote unquote salability pattern. Few
others here we've got a teardrop handle shape. This I believe is
actually called the teardrop Jack. Yes, indeed it is jack for
Jackknife, of course, we've got the gunstock shape as you can
see here, and actually we've got some engraved and colored bone
here on the front, you can see it more apparently from the
backside of this particular knife looks like the stock of a
rifle a little bit. So there you go. You've got in this case, are
they calling this a a gun stock trappers anything else? Nope,
just a gun stock in this case. And then of course, you've got
something like the sway back, which if I open the blade here,
you can see it almost looks like Hey, isn't that kind of
backwards. For this kind of handle, it actually works really
well in a reverse grip. So that's on purpose. These are
certainly not all of the an exhaustive list of different
slipjoint handle shapes, but it's probably most of the ones
you're going to encounter most frequently. So those Yeah, do
have some, you know specific names for the actual handle
shape. I can't think of any, like modern folders that would
have a shape that is not derived from one of these classic
patterns that has its own name for a particular handle shape,
but I would love for folks to let me know if you've got some
out there. We do see a bit in fixed blades as well. I have a
cold steel Laredo trainer right here because we didn't have a
live edge version of it on the day we were filming. This is a
coffin handled buoy type of pattern has a very distinctive
kind of quote unquote, coffin handle shape. That's a good name
shape. Another one you hear every once in a while,
especially in kind of like bushcraft circles. It's
something like you might see on this LT Wright Gen five right
here, which is sometimes called a broomstick style handle. And
that's due to the fact that it is a mostly round, unadorned
handle shape handle profile. And that's less to do about the
profile shape, taken from the side view, but more the actual
cross section. If you're looking down that it's kind of
deceptively simple, it works really well. And people are
going to know what you're talking about their two, I
think. But anyway, Sound off in the comments. What are other
specific named handle shapes that you folks can think of?
This is what really came to my head with a little bit of
digging, but I'm sure there are plenty more. And I'm sure there
are plenty more that as soon as you say it, I'm gonna go Oh,
yeah, of course. But let us know in the comments. Next question
comes from Jorge Fernandez. Okay, I just got into knife
sharpening been collecting them and it's time I feel to learn
how to sharpen them. Got a range of steels from the 8Crs to the
S35s to the 52100s to name a few yet what I mean? Which steel
would be best for me to start and do I go with manual or
electric sharpener? Please help in all capitals with three
exclamation points? I think you need to help. He did put the
word help in quotation marks. So maybe it's maybe I could get
away with like sarcastic type help. We'll revisit this and the
most serious question perhaps. But I will give you some some
actual serious, serious advice here. I would say stick to if
you're really unfamiliar with sharpening you're really
starting to learn mostly from scratch go with a simpler to
sharpen steel. You mentioned 52100 is a fairly easy steal to
sharpen, but oftentimes comes on slightly more expensive knives
nowadays, especially like this, this huncles paring knife from
Bob Kramer design of course. 8CR stuff is a great choice. It is a
very easy to sharpen steel and is often found on very
inexpensive knives. So even if you do ruin something in the
process, which could happen, I don't want to put too, too much
emphasis on that. But it could happen. If it happens to a less
expensive knife. It's not going to bother you as much such as
this right here. What is this a Kershaw chill? I knew that I
didn't have to look it up. Cool knife RJ Martin design. But
basically, when you're learning the subject, don't stack the get
deck against yourself. Yes, pretty soon you'll be sharpening
your s 30 fives, your D twos, everything else with no problem.
But it takes a little more to sharpen those Steel's than some
of these other things. So don't make it harder on yourself if
you're really kind of getting your sea legs on the subject.
Likewise, this is a learning thing you're going through. I
would stay away from electric sharpeners for quite a while
because yeah, they're awesome. In fact, I've I'm a huge
proponent of the Kendo onion, work sharp unit from work sharp
the brand, especially with the blade grinding attachment. It's
a pricey set up but it works fantastically. But it's really
easy to go too far and ruin stuff if you don't know what
you're doing. And it goes too fast. If you don't know what
you're doing, so I would I would go manual. And I would recommend
this particular workshop thing as a place to start. Yes, you
can go with a clamp system where you're not having to freehand
things. And yes, honestly, there's there's, you know,
things to recommend for that also including the workshop
precision, the just, Thomas is a big fan of that. But anyway,
there's probably weeds up on our sharpening your knife that cut
them now, check out this work sharp bench stone sharpener,
it's about $40. It has two different grits, as I rotate it
here of diamond, abrasive 320 600 and a fine ceramic. There we
go. And the cool thing about this is, this is more advanced
feature that I would actually walk out at first and you can do
it so that it is rigid. But as you get used to it, you actually
as you run your blade along this and you get towards the edge, it
will actually kind of help you by following the belly of the
knife. But in a way I don't necessarily like that as you're
learning so you can simply move this switch to the side, lock
that into place and really get a feel for what's going on as you
sharpen. And in fact, in addition to that, I would say
check out we've done a pair of we've done several videos on the
subject of sharpening, but the first and second in in our
sharpening playlist, I would really recommend going to watch
the first is how to use stones like this. And the second is how
to strop, which is also I think, something everyone should learn
how to do it is the great thing that takes your edge from good
to great. No matter what the steel or blade type essentially
check those two videos out. We'll leave links to them
probably in the description box down below. Check those out for
some info. Start with something we'll like this but there's
plenty of other good stuff out there too. And most importantly
have fun with it and don't get discouraged but you're using
inexpensive easier to sharpen steel so it's harder to get
discouraged than if you're starting with some like D2 So I
hope that helps. Anything to add Thomas, hone your skills
whatever it looked like he had just the Snark building up
behind his his visage over there felt like he needed to say
something was right on the edge
now we have another question from Blue koala. Normally I
don't double up in in the same episode but he had two good ones
I think fit this kind of back to basics theme that's going on
today. He says do he or she it's the picture of a dog I don't
know who's behind the picture that dog the cats controlling
the dog but the name is Blue koala how many animals are
involved? Do we want to know the whole zoo? Now that you're
thinking of this workplace environment. Blue koala asks, Do
you have any tips for removing coatings on blades in general?
Sandpaper takes forever any smarter slash better ways PS if
you suggest any chemical products can use please specify
the ingredients or active substance I live in Europe and
that product may not be available. deepest gratitude.
Good sir. Again with the good sir trying to butter me up. It's
another Thanksgiving reference butter. There's two are there?
Yes, I can't help you with your your coatings question. The
problem is there's two generalizations you can make if
you're dealing with something like a DLC coating or a PVD
coating, sandpaper or some other kind of abrasives The only thing
I know of that is going to get through that. However, if you
are working with something like a powder coating or some kind of
traction coating, but you see this type of coating on a lot of
tops knives like this cut 4.0 Right here. Think Becker knives
ESEEs that type of coating it has not always but tends to have
a little bit of a rougher texture. And this is essentially
a it's not a painted on coating. But the paint stripper typically
works on this stuff really well. And I apologize, I apologize. I
don't know the active ingredient in those but any kind of
commercially available paint stripper that you can find in
your hardware stores should do the trick. I know I've
personally had really good luck. With the jafco stuff. It's kind
of a gel like consistency because it sits on the coating
really nicely for a decent amount of time. Bit of that
coating with a little bit of time and a razor blade to scrape
things off when all is said and done can work really well. And
as long as we're talking about nice little tips to go along
with this. The thing I like to do on knives like this which are
typically made out of a carbon steel underneath the coating is
even if I'm stripping the blade, I'll leave I'll either leave the
handles on or some other way mask them off so that the
coating underneath the handle stays intact that way if some
water does get trapped in between the scales and the blade
itself, you're not gonna have to deal with the the rust demons
quite as much. So I hope that helps. Again, just head to the
hardware store. Go to the paint section. Ask for the paint
stripper. Find some good options I'm sure grayed out with a
smaller bottle first maybe it's fair. Don't buy in bulk yet. I'm
coming about that big anyways. Yeah. I don't know if they come
smaller than that. Was it complaints? They do come in
pints. Now we come to the lightning round for today. Kyle
Lindbergh asks what outdoor lightweight fixed blade would
you recommend for backpacking for extended periods of time.
Basically, pick whatever more strikes your fancy I'm a big fan
right now of the cans bowl. This one's here used a little bit.
It's got a great feel in the hand not too heavy at all. You
can get it with a sheet that has a sharpener and a fire steel too
if you want. But these things are phenomenal. If you want
something with a little bit more premium steel, even though you
can get you know the Kansbol with a sheath that has a
sharpener built in. You're talking about extended periods
maybe you want something with a longer lasting edge check out
the steep country fixed blade from Benchmade. Love this guy
it's about 162 bucks, s 30 v steel, nice thin slicey drop
point blade 3.3 point six inches pretty little over three and a
half and the knife itself is just three ounces. I mean ton of
capability right here and not a lot to schlep around at the same
time. You will however, have to come up with a separate belt
attachment because the sheath it's bolted on clicks in really
nicely but it doesn't come with built attachment hardware
unfortunately I wish it did. All right. Next question comes from
Anthony Florio Hey DCA and Thomas I'm looking for a finger
safe sheep's foot knife. With good edge retention. I'm
constantly cutting open 50 pound flower bags at my family's
ravioli factory. Can we come? can just not leave confirm
visit? Yeah, just hang out. Currently I'm using the D two
steeled AD20.5 But I find that the Edge doesn't hold up as well
as I would like it to max price. $200 Please. Yeah, man, check
out the Hogue, Deka with the 20 CV blade steel, you're going to
have a lot higher ed retention than your D2. Even though this
on the website, this is called a modified wharncliffe it's pretty
sheepsfoot he right here 157 and some change for this knife. It's
finger safe, it's fidgety, it feels great. And it's got about
the same kind of length you're dealing with on that Demko. So
size wise, it should match right up. All right, now we come to
our final question of the day, which is, of course, our most
serious question of the day, which comes from Joshua Clark.
What's the best tactical folder for carving a turkey? Or is
there a karambit? better suited to the task? Well, most karambit
has come with a hawkbill style blade. In fact, some would say
if it doesn't have a hawkbill style blade, it's not
particularly or not expressly a karambit. So yes or no if you
want to use a karambit go with something with a more kind of
drop point style or a more versatile style blade like this
tops cut 4.0. But the true answer, the true serious answer
to your question. The best tactical folder for carving the
turkey is the brand new CRKT Ritual black. Am I wrong? I
don't think so. Really cool knife. And now with it's all
black colorway, it's even more tactical than ever before. There
you go. This would be really awesome. Sweeping in there
cutting out the stuff. Make you feel great. to like get another
constructor. Hey, now we're gonna do another turkey video
using the secret key to carve it open. And in all seriousness,
You better clean the heck out of that thing after you carve a
turkey up with that. I can't imagine the juices that are
gonna get trapped in there. But that's all we have for today,
the final FAQ episode before Thanksgiving this year. So it
was the perfect time for that question, don't you think? I do.
Anyway, let me know what you thought of my answers in the
comments. If you've got some other suggestions, we would love
to hear them. Tell me about your different handle named handle
shapes, want to hear about those. And if you want to get
your hands on any of these knives, check out the links in
the description to take you over to KnifeCenter.com. And don't
forget about our knife rewards program because if you're going
to buy one of these knives, you might as well earn some free
money to spend on your next one. And actually this time of year,
it's an even more appropriate thing to talk about. Because you
can buy knives as gifts for other people. And you get to
keep the rewards for a good deal, like airline miles,
something like that. But that's all we have for today. Folks,
leave your questions down below. I am David C. Andersen coming at
it from the KnifeCenter That's Thomas behind the camera and
we're signing off. See you next time. Could we do a pheasant instead
How about a turducken? That's a lot of meat