Hey guys, Jeremy here from Holley performance, and today I brought in Stewie, my 1951 Studebaker
truck that just happens to have an LS engine in it, and I'm going to show you how to install
a Sniper EFI race intake as well as a few other goodies, come on let's get started.
I know this is cheating, but I wanted to make sure you have a good view of the install.
Alright, you can see what I have here is pretty much a bone stock LS 1 truck engine.
Now before you remove the intake you want to take a wire brush or a hard bristle brush
and go around all the intake ports and anywhere else that might meet the cylinder heads.
Then take a blow tip and compressed air and blow everything off.
This prevents you getting any debris down into the intake ports when you remove the
intake.
Once you've got the area around the imports clean, you'll need to remove all the electrical
connections, any connections to the sensors, vacuum lines, and anything else that might
impede you from being able to lift the intake off from the engine itself.
Last but not least, you'll need to disconnect the fuel lines, it's pretty straightforward,
most factory fuel connections will require a special fuel line disconnect tool, you can
purchase or sometimes even rent this disconnect tool at your local auto parts store.
Once the fuel lines are removed, go ahead and remove all 10 bolts that hold the intake
tot he cylinder heads.
Once you're sure everything is disconnected, lift straight up and remove the intake.
Ok once you have the intake removed from the engine itself, you'll need to make sure that
there's no debris or gasket material left on the head surface.
To do this, it's best to shove a rag down into the intake port itself and then once
again you can either take your brush or even a razor blade and some solvent and you'll
need to clean around the intake ports completely.
Do this with all the intake ports and blow it off with compressed air before you proceed
that way you get a good seal with the new intake.
To speed things up, I went ahead and did this ahead of time.
Now that we've got the intake surface clean we can actually take a look at the Sniper
intake itself.
The first thing you'll need to do before anything is test fit it on your engine, that way we
can make sure that the intake ports line up and all the holes line up with the holes in
your cylinder heads.
One issue you might actually encounter, which we did here, is that the factory hard line
from the steam tube interferes with the intake port flange.
There's a couple of ways you can go about resolving this, you can carefully pry up on
the hard line with a screwdriver until it clears the flange, or you can purchase another
kit through Earl's, we actually have a couple of different kits available for this system.
I was able to use my screwdriver and pry up on the tube to gain enough clearance to clear
the intake flange.
Once again just go around and check and make sure that everything is seated completely
and you'll need to verify that all 10 holes for the intake line up with the holes in the
cylinder heads, if they don't you might have to oblong or reem the holes a little bit to
allow the holes to clear.
Alright now that we've verified that the intake fits, we need to go ahead and install the
intake runner O-rings for the LS engine.
You'll need to apply some grease or in this case, I'm using Parker O-ring lube, or vaseline
will also work, and install one into each of the groves on the intake runners.
Alright, once you have all eight of the O-rings installed on the intake runners, you need
to locate the package that has your vacuum fittings and determine which ones, if any,
you actually need to use.
There are four ports located on the bottom of the intake, if you're going to install
these, make sure to use some PTFE paste if you're not going to use them, then you need
to go ahead and put plugs in them now.
Go ahead and apply a generous amount of PTFE paste to the threads and work it in with your
finger.
Now you're ready to set the intake onto the engine itself.
Once again just reassure that all eight of the O-rings are seated nicely.
Now align the intake right above the heads and come straight down as smooth as possible.
Now install the included bolts and washers that are supplied with the intake kit.
The intake is held on by ten bolts but not every hole on the intake will have a threaded
hole below it in the cylinder head, and do the same thing on the opposite side.
Hey don't forget, any time you're installing a steel or stainless steel bolt into aluminum,
you should always use some type of anti-seize, Earl's carries two great products, a nickel-based
anti-seize, and a copper-based anti-seize which is really good for high heat applications.
Now using the correct Allen wrench, start each intake bolt, but don't tighten them just
yet.
And finish with bolt number ten.
Alright once all ten intake bolts are cinched down lightly, go ahead and grab your inch-pound
wrench and the instruction sheet.
In the instructions, you'll find a torque sequence for installing the intake, sequence
of events and how you need to torque down the intake itself.
You'll start in the center or number one position and work your way outward in a criss-cross
pattern.
You'll have to repeat this pattern twice though, the first pass will torque to 44 inch-pounds,
and on the second pass, we'll have to re-torque to 89 inch-pounds.
Now go ahead and adjust it to 89 inch-pounds and lock your torque wrench and repeat the
sequence.
Starting with bolt number one, repeat this process until you've done all ten bolts.
Now that our Sniper intake is torqued down to the engine correctly, we can go ahead and
start installing our fuel rail kit.
In the bottom of your Sniper intake box, you'll find a box underneath the false floor that
has your fuel rails, a crossover tube, some AN fittings, installation hardware, and the
actual mounting brackets for the fuel rails themselves.
Before you go any further though, you need to go ahead and get your fuel injectors lined
up.
You'll need to apply some vaseline or O-ring lube to the O-rings on your injectors.
Install all eight injectors by firmly pressing them down into the port of the intake.
Make sure that you don't pinch or damage the O-Rings as you install them.
Before you install your new fuel rails, take note that on one side of the rails it actually
has a chamfered hole, the side with the chamfered hole needs to face outward.
Go ahead and repeat the process for the other side, line up your injectors, and press down
firmly.
Now, all we need is to install the six mounting brackets that will actually secure the fuel
rail to the intake manifold itself.
Take the corresponding bolt.
Install the brackets to the intake but don't tighten them yet, this allows us to line up
and install the fuel rail bolts.
Repeat this process for the five remaining brackets.
Now take the longer bolts and nuts supplied in your hardware kit and run it from the outside
in, making sure to line up with the holes on our brackets that we just installed.
Now you can install the lock washer and nut.
Repeat this process for the remaining brackets.
Now you can go ahead and tighten up the bolts and don't forget to tighten the bolts to the
intake.
Alright now you can take your AN fittings and install the O-rings on them, use some
grease or O-ring lube.
Apply a couple of drops of oil to the fitting threads will help prevent galling.
To install the O-ring fittings properly simply hand tighten them, and then tighten it a quarter
of a turn more using the appropriate wrench.
Repeat this for each port and tighten each one.
Now we can install a stainless crossover tube, the ends swivel to make installation easy.
Once you've got the position, you can go ahead and tighten them down.
The only thing left to do now is installing the injector harness and make your necessary
fuel line connections.
Once your injector harness is completely installed, your fuel rail installation is now complete.
For this particular install, I chose to use the Sniper 92 millimeter throttle body.
You'll notice when it comes, you'll either have to reuse the current IAC and TPS or purchase
new ones.
Holley carries new IACs, part number 543-105 and TPS sensors part number 870001.
Since this is going on a Sniper manifold, we'll need to use this spacer plate that's
included in the intake kit as well as the O-ring.
Go ahead and apply a light lubricant such as this O-ring lube or vaseline or grease
to your O-ring before installing it.
You may have to purchase four new bolts if the bolts in the kit aren't long enough to
use with your spacer plate.
First, install the O-ring into the groove on the intake, make sure it's seated well,
then you'll need to take the throttle body spacer and the throttle body.
Be sure on your throttle plate spacer that the O-ring faces the throttle body and the
O-ring on the intake will face the spacer.
You can take one of your bolts and position it, and then start it by hand, followed by
the next three, just hand tighten them for now, then using the torque wrench, tighten
them to 89 inch-pounds in a criss-cross pattern.
Now we can install the throttle position sensor and the idle air control motor that we talked
about earlier, I'm using new parts from Holley.
It's always a good idea to put a little bit of grease or O-ring lube before installing,
and then secure, and on the TPS you'll see it's D shaped, the shaft is D shaped as well,
simply slide it on.
All that's left to do now is route your throttle cable, connect the PCV hose, make the connections
at the sensors, and you'll need to install an elbow and intake with a filter of course.
Next, we're going to go ahead and install this Holley LS valley cover in place of the
factory one.
First, you'll need to remove all ten intake bolts, disconnect all sensors and wiring connections,
then disconnect any vacuum or fuel lines.
Now you can lift and remove the intake.
Next, we'll need to remove the factory steam tube assembly and NOC sensors, the NOC sensor
connectors simply pull out, you may have to pry on them a little though.
Then we use a socket to loosen and remove both NOC sensors.
Now loosen the four bolts that are holding the factory steam tube assembly to the engine
block and remove it.
Next, you'll remove the ten bolts holding the valley tray onto the engine itself.
And you may have to pry this off.
Once you have the assembly removed, you'll notice that there's a gasket below the cover,
you may be able to clean and reuse the gasket if it's still in good condition, so I'll go
ahead and remove all the bolts and I'll keep out gasket, we'll go ahead and clean it out
before we put it on the engine.
Now we can grab our Holley LS trust valley cover.
Make sure to clean the mounting surface just like you did the gasket.
I already placed the gasket on their so all you need to do now is set this on top, line
up the bolt holes, and either install new hardware or in this case the hardware that
we pulled from the original.
It's always a good idea to start in four corners and make sure everything is squared and lined
up before you proceed.
Follow the manufacturer's suggested torque pattern and torque specifications, now torque
down the valley cover.
While we're at it, I'm going to go ahead and replace the LS hard steam lines with one of
these kits from Earl's, we're actually using Earl's steam tube adapter kit with the Speedflex
hose, it's fairly simple to install, and I'll show you how to do it.
You'll need to take the steam tube adapter, be sure that the O-ring is facing down towards
the engine block and it simply slides up into there.
Install your hose loosely so that way you can still maneuver it and flex it as needed,
and now we can install it.
I'm using a second kit form Earl's to provide a crossover at the rear of the cylinder heads,
but this isn't necessary, you can use two OEM block offs from GM to do the same thing.
The front crossover is assembled just like we did the rear.
Install the Speedflex onto the Earl's adapter, now on this side, you'll see that the adapter
has a male -3 fitting, this is for the hose that returns coolant to the radiator.
It has an O-ring on both sides since coolant flows through it.
Line up the adapters, install your hardware, and then tighten them all.
These aftermarket steam tube kits offer more routing flexibility and they look a lot better
too.
The last thing to do is take the hose, the Speedflex line that actually goes from the
adapter to your radiator, I don't have the radiator installed yet so we'll just put this
fitting on for right now and we'll have to cut the length later.
Don't forget to subscribe to the Holley performance Youtube channel where you can see more great
install videos with Stewie and if you're lucky, you might even see this thing run.