From the iconic Tank to the sophisticated Rotonde, Cartier has created a long list
of elegant designs that set the standard for fine watchmaking.
In the 2010s, the Maison sought to prove itself more than just a pretty face
with robust and functional sports watches.
The Cartier Calibre is one of the shining masterpieces from this segment.
By introducing the brand’s first serially produced in-house movement – with an undeniably masculine
design – the Calibre put Cartier alongside Rolex, Omega, and IWC in creating hard-wearing watches.
Here’s a retrospective on the game-changing Cartier Calibre collection.
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While Cartier has long been a master of creating timeless designs,
one constant point of criticism was its dependence on base movements from other companies.
That changed with the introduction of the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon in 2008,
and the Calibre de Cartier Flying Tourbillon in 2010.
These watches were the first to feature a Cartier manufacture movement,
and even earned the Geneva Seal, a prestigious mark of excellence for Swiss-made timepieces.
It was a proud declaration of the brand’s readiness to create their own movements.
As a complicated Geneva Seal watch, the Flying Tourbillon belonged to
the haute horology category, and carried a prohibitive price tag.
For its audience to enjoy their in-house movements, Cartier introduced the Calibre,
its first widely produced sports watch featuring a Cartier-made movement.
They kicked things off with the Calibre de Cartier,
the one that set the standard for all succeeding Calibre watches.
It possesses all the qualities one will ever need in an elegant sports watch: a large and
solid case, curved lugs that sit comfortably on the wrist, and an extremely legible dial.
Even with its considerable presence, the Calibre was instantly recognizable on
the wrist as a Cartier. Readable and neat, their dials consist of sword-shaped hands,
Roman numeral and baton indices, a running seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock, and a vertical date window
at 3 o'clock. There are also railroad patterns on the outer rim for an added vintage touch.
In 2012, Cartier equipped the Calibre with a chronograph complication. It still bears design
cues similar to its direct predecessor, with few subtle differences in the dial.
Instead of bearing a single sub-dial, the Cartier Calibre Chronograph has two
on both sides, along with an expanded date window above the 6 o'clock mark.
There are also two pushers on the right side for the chronograph function,
which both technically act as guards to the crown. To add, the brand decided to place the minute
track with five-minute increments on the bezel in order for it to act as a tachymeter.
Cartier wanted to be taken more seriously in the sports watch segment. In 2013,
they released their first proper diving watch – the Calibre de Cartier Diver.
It holds its own among the sea of dive watches, with its ISO 64-25 compliance;
a striking, luminescent dial, and a water resistance rating of up to 300 meters.
This is the most athletic-looking among the four Calibre watches,
and also the most commanding model in terms of appearance and design.
Its bezel, which is made in ceramic, now comes in a unidirectional rotating format.
This allows divers to accurately measure periods of time while underwater.
The final design from the collection is the Calibre de Cartier 38, a smaller alternative to
the Calibre 42 models. It featured a modified dial layout to adapt to the smaller case,
featuring a singular date window, blue hands, and all-Roman numeral hour markers.
These were also made available in a myriad of case metals and straps and bracelets,
with the addition of a diamond bezel in some variations.
The Cartier Calibre has ceased production since 2018,
but it is still considered one of the most versatile pieces ever released by the brand.
Available in the pre-owned market, it remains a sought-after and well-loved
design among watch collectors and casual wearers.
Explore our selection of Calibre de Cartier watches at SwissWatchExpo.com.
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