Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to replace the seals on the front calipers on our 2008
Honda CBR600 RR.
Pretty simple procedure, starts by draining the brake fluid.
So let's grab a couple of tools and I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright guys you're going to want a decent quality torque wrench, just a regular 3/8
ratchet, a 12 and a 14 mm socket, a 5mm Allen, and then a 8mm regular wrench.
Also want to get you one of these little right angled Phillips screwdrivers, a pick tool,
and maybe a set of pliers.
Really that's about it.
Pretty short list.
Alright, let's go ahead and get our little Mity Vac connected here.
Then we'll take off that cap on the reservoir and get all of the fluid out of the system.
Alright, that should get it.
Alright, next while it's still attached let's go ahead and at least break these pins loose.
They're actually holding in the pads themselves.
Then go ahead and remove the brake line.
Be careful not to lose either one of the crush washers because you've got one on either side.
Try to keep the brake fluid off your paint because it will eat through it in a hurry.
Next we need to just unbolt it from the carrier.
Keep in mind that these two main caliper bolts are not supposed to be reused so when you're
ordering your parts make sure you get a new pair of these because they're one time use
only.
She slides right off.
Tell you what, let's go ahead over to our teardown bench and get those seals out of
there.
Alright, let's go ahead and get those pins out so we can get the brake pads out of
the way.
Now when should you have to do this?
Well, honestly if it starts leaking around the caliper chances are one of the seals is
gone.
Your brakes feel spongy or maybe the pistons are locking up and causing it to wear prematurely
on your pads.
So those would be a couple of examples why you need to go in and take a peek at this.
Alright, what I want to do is go ahead and clean this out a little bit because I don't
want to get any contaminants in there due to that dust.
Alright, the next part's a little bit scary.
We're actually going to use the air pressure to push the pistons out.
Now you don't want to just cram it on there and go wide open because they would shoot
out like they came out of a cannon.
And don't get your fingers anywhere near it.
So what we want to do is just apply just a little bit of pressure.
There we go.
Get them to kick out.
Remember you've got four of them in there.
So you may have to push the other side back in a little bit to get the first two out.
You also want to keep up with how they came out because I prefer to put them back in the
same bore that they've been in.
Alright, so that's going to be the top side.
Gonna lay it out like that.
Alright, let's get those last two kicked out.
This will require a little bit more pressure.
If you grab it with a pair of pliers make sure you're all the way up because you don't
want to scar the piston itself.
There we go.
Now you'll notice that on a parts diagram it actually shows two different part numbers
for what I call the top half and the bottom half.
The reason being the top half is just a little bit bigger than the bottom.
You can tell by the pistons themselves.
It's probably about a millimeter or two different in diameter.
Alright, so let's start getting this stuff cleaned up.
This is just the dust buildup.
This is all normal, and the inside of this one looks to be in great shape.
There's no pitting, no scarring, anything on the pistons themselves.
I mean there's actually nothing wrong with these, but I'm just showing you how to rebuild
them if you do have a problem on yours.
Alright, let's get these seals pulled out.
Alright, like I said the one at the top is a little bit larger than the one on the bottom,
so you want to make sure that you get those in the right position.
Having teeny tiny fingers would help.
And now we go for the bottom one.
Alright, now I only did one side of this caliper.
Of course if yours is leaking which this one really wasn't-- you'd need to replace all
four on both sides if you're going to do both sides.
But actually doing the other side is a mirror image of this so the exact same procedure.
Alright before we put our pistons back in, we want to go ahead and coat them down and
the bores as well with some DOT 4 brake fluid.
Alright, let's start popping them back in.
You want to make sure you keep this just as clean as you can because any contaminants
in there would not be very kind to this system.
Alright, now we just need to get this cleaned back off, get all that brake fluid off of
there and get it reinstalled on the machine.
Alright, let's get this booger put back together.
Go ahead and get your pads in, push against that spring.
Alright, get your other pin in.
To start with just get them in there hand-tight.
Make sure your pads are pushed open.
And let's go ahead and get her up there.
Alright, remember those bolts are one-time use so make sure you have new ones.
Alright, with those just hand tight let's go ahead and get the torque on them, 33 foot-pounds
will take care of it.
Next let's go ahead and get our hydraulic line hooked up.
That one is set to 25 foot-pounds so bring that down.
Well alright guys that pretty much wraps this one up.
The only thing left now is to refill and then bleed the system.
If you would, reference our video on how to do that and we'll show you how to get it done
the right way.
If you need any of the parts come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care
of.
If you have any questions or comments just leaver them below and I'll do my best to answer
them.
And until next time, we just want to say thanks for watching.