All right guys, this is going to be an easy one, right?
The Hurst line lock and roll control kit should be for those avid drag racing fans or, hell,
avid burnout fans out there who are looking to do more controlled burnouts with your Fox
body or SN95 heating up those rear tires properly but without putting the added stress on your
rear braking components like with a traditional brake stand.
The install is going to get two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter from me as
there is a little bit of work involved with some brake lines, but we're going to touch
more on that later on.
With this kit installed you're going to be able to lock up those front wheels and tires
of course while allowing the rears to spend freely.
It's great for the burnout box at the drag strip or, again, if you're just participating
in a random burnout competition.
This is even a good thing to have for those manual or stick cars out there who do a lot
of drag racing to help you stage the car, keep it stationary but without rolling through
the staging lights.
The price point's going to be right around 100 bucks for this thing, not that bad overall.
Line locks are one of those things that have been around forever in the drag racing and
hot rodding world.
Hurst even claims theirs is the original line lock, and I have no reason to disagree with
them.
The sole purpose here, again, is to just do some more controlled burnouts, locking up
those fronts, allowing those rears to rip, heating up the slicks or radials when making
a pass at the drag strip.
Along with that burnout awesomeness that oftentimes comes along with a line lock kit like this,
you are getting some functionality as well for a staging purpose as the roll control
name implies here.
It's going to control the roll or lack thereof of cars staging, not rolling through those
staging beams or lights, red lighting nullifying your run in the process.
Again, this is probably a little bit more beneficial for those stick cars out there
as opposed to the autos with the trans brake.
Besides those big awesome smoky burnouts and of course that roll control benefit you're
getting with the Hurst product, you're also getting the benefit of saving some added wear
and tear on your rear braking components when doing a burnout.
If you think about it, guys, anytime you do a big smoky burnout, what are you doing?
You're riding those brakes, hammering down, overpowering your rear braking components,
and at that point you're putting some added stresses on it.
In fact, if you've ever watched a burnout competition you can see this, right?
Guys that don't have a line lock, those rear brakes get so damn hot they sometimes can
catch on fire.
Obviously that's not a good thing.
With the Hurst installed, you won't have to worry about that of course and you will be
saving some added life to your rear brakes.
How does this thing even work?
Well, the solenoid from Hurts is going to tap into the front brake lines of your '79
to '04 Mustang.
Once you depress that brake pedal and hold the included button, the front brakes will
lock up but the rears are going to spin freely allowing you to do your burnout.
As soon as you let go of that button the front brakes will release pressure, and at that
point you can operate normally once again.
As far as your construction, well, Hurst claims this is one of your only billet stainless
steel bodied roll control units out there on the aftermarket.
It has been tested up to 30 Gs of force before mechanical failure and does operate at one
one-hundred-thousandth of a second for that button release.
As soon as you're off that button, you are going.
This thing does operate at four amps.
It is fused.
It does feature eight inch inlets and outlets along with an additional port here that can
be used for an extra bleeder or maybe a brake pressure valve.
It is cleanable, it is rebuildable on the fly if you need to, and it does also include
a bracket for mounting purposes.
If I can make one suggestion, mount this thing a little closer to your master cylinder.
It will certainly save you when it comes time for the install as you won't have to get too
crazy or custom with your brake lines.
As far as that installation is concerned, I did go two out of three wrenches on the
difficulty meter here with this particular install because of the brake work and the
bleeding of the brakes and maybe a couple of hours from start to finish in the garage
or shop before you're all wrapped up.
In addition to that brake work of course there is some wiring involved as well, so factor
that in, guys.
Make sure you have the necessary tools there - a soldering iron, butt connectors, whatever
you prefer.
Basically it's just power and ground stuff.
You do have to run that switch inside the car itself.
Some people like to leave it by the shifter.
Others like to mount it to the steering wheel.
That's totally your call.
If I were to do this job, I'd recommend getting a small run of line that's already equipped
with fittings that's already flared and ready to go.
Just grab your line bender so you can make some small tweaks to the line itself.
Again, if you mount this thing close to the master cylinder you're going to be better
off because you won't have to make too many changes there.
Just make sure you have a line bender on hand.
It's probably not a bad idea to have some extra brake line and fittings on hand as well
in addition to your flare tool and then finally a couple of open ended wrenches to get everything
tightened up.
Since you will be relieving pressure to your braking system here with disconnecting the
lines, all that good stuff, just make sure you have a bleeder tool on hand and a buddy
unless you have one of those fancy tools where you can do it yourself.
Whatever the case, you will need to bleed the brakes on your Mustang before taking it
out for a spin or a big smoky burnout.
Speaking of those burnouts, whether you like to do them at the track to heat up those slicks
or radials or you just like to do them for fun, you'll need the Hurst line lock in your
life.
You can grab one right here at AmericanMuscle.com.