If you're new to sewing, you might have come across the term
interfacing or stabilized, and it's left you thinking
“What's that?” And headed to Google and try to Google it.
And it's so much information, right?
Maybe that's how you ended up on this video.
And no worse when you go to the store.
There's way too many choices.
In this video, let's demystify what interfacing is.
Fusing stabilizes,
what the different types are, when and where to use them
to give you some better information, better insight
into this sewing term of interfacing that we do.
Why we do it?
Because you do not want to miss this step on your sewing, particularly in garments,
just because you don't know what it is.
We're here to demystify all of the interfacing, stabilizing, fusing, questions.
This is probably one of the things like top things on the
what the pattern envelope doesn't tell you about, right?
Is interfacing. Because you read this
for the first time, you're thinking, What on earth is that?
And then, of course, don't let me get started
when you go into the store and there's just like, so many different choices
and they're all called different things and you're just thinking, what?
What do I need? Do I even need it?
What stabilizing, even for?
And then you get yourself into a whole mess.
So I know it's one of the big questions that I had when I first started
are things I missed because I didn't know and it was disaster
and it's come up recently in some of my more recent videos
as we've been talking about, you know, beginner sewing.
How do we get started? Something we've talked about.
One of the biggest things missing on the actual envelope.
And there was a few really great questions that come through in the comments about,
you know, what does it stabilizer when and where we need it.
Interfacing, what, why, how?
So let's go over all those things.
Let's cover what stabilizing is, what it isn’t, and
what interfacing is used for, all the different types
of interfacing that there are and what they might be used for.
And then we'll also go into how to choose the best kind for your garment, etc.,
to give you a bit more like a helping hand when you’re next choosing it.
And then of course, what I do and recommend for
maybe as well recommendations to move forward for
If you're looking for some suggestions that go in line with my top tips as well.
But let's first start with what is stabilizing.
So we use stabilizers
which can be an interfacing, but we want to stabilize fabric
for either to stop pulling, to stop draping,
to stop stretching, to stop movement in the fabric, basically.
And so interfacing is one way that we can stabilize.
Stabilizing can be done with different methods as well,
because you could stabilize a seam, you could stabilize the fabric entirely
and you could use seam tape.
So sometimes tapes are sewn into seems to stabilize it.
You could use interfacing all the different kinds which we'll get to.
You could use a spray on starch to stabilize all the fabric
like a drapey fabric,
and then stabilize it while you're sewing it and washes out, etc..
So that's stabilizing and what we need.
We're going to talk about the interfacing part
because that's what we're here for.
So interfacing is used to stabilize
and it's also used to give a structure and body to a garment.
For instance, this lovely one here would absolutely not
look the same if it didn't have interfacing in the collar.
The collar would be all flat and probably be wrinkly.
The corners would not be sharp and nice crease.
The neckline would not have this nice
firm crease to it and crispness and stay up.
It could have stretched out very easily.
It won't be sitting like this at all.
This is why we use interfacing is to give structure and body to certain areas
and we'll talk about that later and to give stability to fabric as well.
Okay, let's cover off the different types of interfacing.
So you have let's start with the two main types.
You either have a fusible interfacing,
so iron on interfacing or sew in interfacing,
so iron on interfacing or fusing or fusible interfacing,
all these types of names you might use or fusing is often just called.
It is a type of interfacing that has a sort of glue on the inside.
I think you see it on this one.
Basically, it's got one side that is sort of glue.
And so what happens is you lay that down on your fabric, you iron it,
so basically melt the glue and it sticks to your fabric.
And so that's how it provides its stability by sticking to the fabric.
On the other hand, you have what's called a sew in interfacing,
and this is no glue, no nothing is more old fashioned kind
because before all these beautiful, fusible type interface things were done,
it was only so in interfacing and so you literally sew it in.
So usually you'd cut out your piece, say your color, for example,
and then you would sew,
cut out the same piece of interfacing and sew around the edges
to hold them together.
So it's like one piece of fabric after that.
So the same principle, it's just a different way to get to the same result.
And so within here, within the types of interfacing
there are both woven and non-woven interfacing.
So woven interfacing are, as they suggest, just like woven fabric,
but they have one side with the sort of glue,
if you will, on the side of it that makes it, you know, it's woven
because it will literally have threads that come off just like your fabric does,
and you'll see it all the strands, the wefts and the warps
So all the different threads
you understand, right?
So it's woven just like woven fabric and the non woven is kind of think of it
more like a mat or a web of fibers that are all, you know, laid out.
And then the glue is applied on top.
And, you know, because generally these ones are the ones that you can tear.
So they just tear apart because there's no actual threads holding it together.
So to say it's a non-woven And now all of these have their different places.
Talk about that in just a second because there is also one more
and that is knit so you can get knit interfacing. It’s generally,
you know, it doesn't really stretch so much
because the idea is that you want to stabilize these areas.
You're in these sort of these these things in, you know, stable knits, etc.,
and they're quite loose woven and just provide a little bit of structure
and support to knit fabric sometimes.
So there are those as well.
So they all do have different uses and places
and I'll get to my recommendations what I like.
But you know, fusible interfacing are good because they basically form
one with the fabric
and you'll get less wrinkles because it mats the fabric up entirely.
So it's less wrinkles.
It's like really nice and solid piece of fabric, right? On the bound
downside, it can be too solid piece of fabric.
You don't want cardboard, we want fabric still.
And so you can easily make it too stiff and rigid with a fusible interlacing.
And sew in interfacings are really great because they're generally,
you know, of woven.
And so it gives more of a fabric type feel even with the fusible interfacing.
So the woven ones are and usually height
more higher end, more expensive usually as well of course,
but they do provide more of a fabric like feel to the garment
instead of the non-wovens.
And the sew in ones
don't actually add any kind of like glue or anything to your fabric.
And so if that's what you're looking for,
sew ins are great, but they have different uses
and I use all of them, which I'll tell you about in a minute.
I hope that briefly explains all the different types of interfacings.
What you're looking at when you look at them.
Okay, so just where do we usually use interfacing for?
So you want to use interfacing on any facings.
You get it interfacing for facings that you have
because all the facings need some extra structure and support
because facings are generally at areas like necklines,
at openings, like button openings, etc.
cuffs, collars,
all of these are generally they're like big ones
that we usually interface because we want a structure on them.
I think any and in ends we don't usually do hems
because they usually hang right and often they're folded up twice, etc.
But then we're hanging and not meant to have structure.
But if you put a cuff on it that cuff definitely needs structure.
So anytime it tells you interface, you know, don't skip it because it's
very important for the garment to look really nice and crisp.
It's all of the other little parts that you need, little teeny pieces
that you're sewing onto it, like collars and cuffs or necklines or openings.
I think all of those areas are where we mostly use the interfacing.
As I said, there's a whole world and you should definitely do some more research.
But this is a top level kind of when you go into the store,
you can actually start seeing woven, non-woven, fusible, non-fusible, etc..
But then when you're at the store, how do you choose the right interfacing?
All right, let's go from here.
The basic the number one overarching rule of how you would choose the right
interfacing for what you're making is you want the right weight
to match the fabric that you are using.
You don't want, like I said before, you don't want cardboard fabric.
So a lightweight fabric needs a lightweight interfacing
a heavy weight will need a really heavy and more structured
interfacing to match it, right?
We're trying to match the fabric that we're using
generally, you would go lighter, not too heavy,
and you're fusible, as I said, have that cardboard tendency.
So lighter is better and so you just match it to your fabric
and by weight we we mean the thickness, really.
So it can be a bit hard to tell sometimes when you just brand new.
But have a look at it you'll see
is the interfacing kind of more like a quilting cotton like this one?
It's not far off, right?
A little bit lighter,
but then something like this one is actually even lighter,
Like it's more sheer and it feels like almost paperweight, right?
So this would maybe be more suitable for really, really lightweight cotton,
voile, etc..
So trying to match it to the fabric of that, your you you're going for,
that's the main overarching way that you will choose
what is the appropriate interfacing. Then your start,
do you want a fusible or a sew in? Now I recommend that you probably
just start with a fusible interfacing because one
your pattern is probably going to use those instructions and tell you how to do it.
And that is if you look online for any kinds of like soft learning
and tutorial, Google, anything, that's probably what you're going to see.
So it'll be the easiest to get started with,
I think, a fusible interfacing and they are really great.
And then I would look at maybe moving to sew in interfacings
when you get a bit more experienced and kind of have a bit more of idea
of what you're actually trying to achieve, unless that is you're trying to go
for historically accurate sewing, then obviously sew in with natural fibers
is probably what you're looking for, but you already know that.
Okay, here's my hot tips on interfacing and fusing what you should do from here.
So not all interfacings are created equal.
There's definitely different qualities and it's really hard to tell.
You only really know until you get home and use it.
I've had some that just like that ironed on and it takes the hottest
temperature
ridiculous amount of time to try and like fuse them and melt them on
and they still bubble and puckle and puckle bubble and pucker
And then when you wash them, they kind of get that bubbling feel like
terrible, terrible quality. You don't want those ones, right?
You only know by using them or some shrink like so is
good for brand names if you can.
It's always obviously a good starting point when you find one you like.
The next tip is to then buy in bulk because you know, this is one thing
like you never want to go buying this like per project.
You want this in your stash absolutely at all times.
So buy in bulk. When you find one that is good and you know, works
by a couple of meters usually.
At least in garment sewing the pieces that we use are quite small,
so two or three meters is like that will be many projects, right?
And so think about then buying in bulk,
usually getting a medium weight.
So something for, say, medium weight fabrics and then a lightweight
one for your lightweight fabrics.
Generally, like all of our garment sewing for
95% of us will probably fall into that category.
Stiffer ones if you do things like jackets, coats, etc.
or you're making bags and things like that, will require a stiffer, heavier one,
but generally
a lightweight and a medium weight and just buy a couple in bulk
when you find your one will be absolutely perfect.
I would also suggest if you're up for it to get a medium weight
hair canvas or sew in interfacing.
Now this is can either be sew in interfacing like this one
or this natural hair canvas.
I really like these ones.
The very most.
It's a natural hair product and it just gives it's more of a tailoring type thing
for my Australian girls.
You can get this at Spotlight
and it just gives a really nice I find it just has a
it feels like fabric because it basically is right
And so things like waistbands I love using this in waistbands
and anything you need a real structured
piece too, but you want it to feel like fabric.
This is great because you can even the hot tip is you can use a super lightweight
fusable on the actual garment to keep that like
wrinkle free, etc., and rigidity in the fabric itself.
And then use this for the structure for certain things.
Like,
as I said, waistbands are probably one of the big ones for that as a medium weight
sew in canvas will really work for because we all pretty much do different
waistbands of things and different areas might need something quite structured
and that is really good.
So if you have the two, but then that maybe that third one the
sew in just that little extra and the last tip as you build
your interfacing, you know, supply cabinet full
is to get both black and white.
Yes, it does come in black and it is handy because you don't
really want to be fusing white onto dark colored garments.
Of course, if dark colored garments are all that you
sew then just get the black or just get the white.
But basically in that same brand, that one that you know, that works,
if you can get both black and white, you know, as you're building your
your interfacing collection, it will serve you well.
I would really love to know down in the comments below, what has been
your biggest challenges with interfacing, fusing, stabilizers?
Let me know because I can make
some more videos on this topic and if you have a great one,
let us know what your ultimate interfacing is down
below to give someone else a nice hot tip on where to find that as well.
Because we are a sewing community here
and we're all sharing our information to try and just make sew better garment.
Okay, let's take this to the community in the comments down the bottom,
I would love to know
what has been your biggest challenges with interfacing, fusings,
all the things
leave those comments down below because I might just make some more videos on it.
I'd love to hear what your challenges are
or what's been your biggest takeaway from this one?
I'd love to know how I've helped you because I really do want to see
you sewing those clothes that you dream of.
If you want to more information, expand further on this.
This is what I do in Vintage Sewing School.
So this links down in the description box.
Click the link drops down and I'd love to have you come join me there.
I even have a free class. Okay.
And so next time my sewing friends happy sewing, bye.