Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today I'm going to walk
you through the process of changing out the final drive and front differential
on our 2012 Honda TRX 420 Rancher. Pretty simple to do. Let's look at the tools and
the parts we're going to need to pull this off. The parts list is going to be
really short. All that's going to be required is a hypoid-type gear oil. Now
if you want to use this particular brand, check the link in the description below.
We actually have a shopping cart already put together with everything you're
gonna need to pull this off. If you're still having trouble, then give us a call.
That's what we're here for and we can guide you to the correct parts for your
application. Now as far as the tools? Well there's only one. That's going to be a
torque wrench, as always. As far as the different sockets and tools that I'll be
using, as I go through the process I will actually call those out so you don't
have to waste time running back and forth from your toolbox. So now that I've
got my oil and my torque wrench together, we can go over there and I'll show you
how to do it. Let's go
So there's two bolts that we're going to be concerned with. One is going to be the
fill, which is at the top. And then you've got the drain which is at the bottom. Now
the fill it's a 17 millimeter and the one down below is a 10, so let's go ahead
and pull our top one and get it out of the way and make it easier for it to
drain. Let's reach in and get that 10 millimeter. Now in the manual they want
you to do this every two years. They don't give a mileage, they don't give
hours. They just say every two years. And given
this as a 2012, how much you want to bet it's never been done? So this could look
pretty rough. Let's see what she's got hidden in there. That's actually not bad
at all. I've seen much worse. I've seen it look
just totally jet-black. I've had them come in and look milky and of course
that means they've had water intrusion and you have to do a little bit more
work. But this one is actually that looks pretty good. Yeah this oil looks so good
in the front it's safe to say that it didn't spend much time in four-wheel drive.
I think they ran it in two-wheel drive most the time. Little side note: the front
actually holds right at 8 fluid ounces, and the back's can only be 2.5. So I don't
know if I'd wait two years to do this procedure. It's relatively expensive
compared to what it would cost to have a new final drive installed. Alright, it
looks like it's through draining, let's go ahead and get the drain plug back in
there. Now we are going to set it to 9 foot pounds, not a lot of torque, so
without a torque wrench it'll be very easy to strip this out when you're doing
this-- especially with such a low torque. Don't hold the actual extension or the
socket because that'll skew what your number should be. There it is.
And I said it would be right at seven point five to eight ounces? Well this
actually comes at an 8 ounce container. How convenient is that? So we can just
about dump the whole thing in. And there is no check bolt on the front, we just
fill it till it runs out of that fill access plate. It's flowing over so it
must be full. Let's take a peek at it. Yeah, we're up to it. You can see the
level it is even so that took closer to maybe six and a half to seven. I'm gonna
get this rag out. Check our o-ring, make sure it's good to
go, no cracks. Snug it back down.
Okay, the front's done. Let's head to the back. It's a very similar procedure in
the back. We do have to remove this lower skid plate to get to the drain bolt. And
this is gonna be our fill, but certainly don't fill it all the way up there,
because there's a check bolt right here that we will pull out. And when fluid
starts running out of that, that's when it's filled up. So let's start by getting
this skid plate out, and it's just three 12 millimeter bolts. Front fluid looked
really good, but I expect this to look really bad. Know in a few minutes. Nice
start, a garden. Our drain bolt is here, but it's a little
bit encrusted. I spent a little time trying to get as much dirt away from
this as you can, because you don't want it to end up getting pushed inside the
casing. Before we pull the drain plug, let's go ahead and remove our fill. Just
17 millimeter. As well as that check bolt on the side, I'm just curious if it was
actually at the right level. Whoa, that's a little scary. As soon as I put it on
there it was not tight. Let's see what we got. Yeah, it was actually still holding
the fluid in there, but uh, looking a little bit different compared to the
front. So now let's go ahead and get our drain plug. It's a 10 millimeter as well.
Still not horrible but it was it was time for a change, no doubt. I mean, that's
got a fair amount of wear in there, and we expect it after a while. So we'll give
that a couple of minutes to drain. The good part is as it's draining out it
doesn't look like there's been any water intrusion. So looks like just normal wear
and tear to me. She is finished draining, let's go ahead and put our drain plug
back in, then we're gonna torque it to 9 foot pounds. Now let's fill her back up,
and as I said earlier this isn't going to take much: about two and a half to three
ounces. Finish off that other bottle we used up front.
There it goes.
Let's go ahead and get that check bolt back in and it actually has the same
torque as the drain bolt. So nine foot-pounds. Now we can get our filler
cap back in. Last, all we need to do is reattach our skid plate.
Alright guys, that wraps this one up. Listen if you need any parts for your
machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken
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and it will take you straight to a cart that's ready to get checked out. Listen,
if you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll
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