Okay what I'm going to do now is show you guys how to load screens into the
press generally I will keep the pallets kind of in between stations saw it I
don't have my pallets exactly underneath the printhead and it's a little more
difficult with your flashbacks so what I'm going to do is grab my screen and
how this works is we're going to push the back of the screen into the screen
clamp you can see it does have a spring and it pushes the back of this clamp
that way you can put your screens in so as you can see here with it being
between stations and can lower the front part of the screen down push it into the
back won't give that a good push until
our screen goes into position now there is this other little clamp knob here
that you can tighten down to make sure your registration doesn't move but we
hardly ever use those because these cylinders do a pretty great job at
keeping it nice and steady but now at this point I'm going to take my pallet
that has my center line put it underneath head number one and I'm going
to hit table up and you can see that it just really moves the careful
up and down so now I could come here with my center marks and align my first
screen up and make sure we're about three fingers down from the top of the
pallet so I could move this up a little bit or I just need to make a mental note
as to where to place my shirt basically so now we have our Center marks all
lined up for the most part looks pretty good to me
generally I would have a hand holding this down and didn't turn these clamps
on but I don't think it's going to move too much so I'm going to go ahead and
turn the clamps on so now we're nice and locked in looks like we're pretty
centered up I know we're kind of at an angle a little bit so you definitely
want to get a good overhead view when you're doing this now I'm just gonna go
ahead and table down and I'm gonna load up a squeegee and put ink in the screen
and then adjust my stroke wing okay I got my squeegee here I'm gonna take out
a whole pool pin put this up into the carriage you can drop it down if you
like you hear next thing I'm going to do is
I'm going to lower the care fell down until it just falls all the way down and
then I'm just going to Snug it up now I'm going to put a little bit of white
paint in here and what your credit at all you can move the the head backwards
and forwards and kind of push it up away put some down here at the bottom and
then I'm going some heat up towards the top you want to
put too much ink onto your press because I can just end up making a mess so one
of the things you need to do is keep an eye on it make sure
constantly has enough ink one of the reasons I'm putting ink up here in front
just to make sure the squeegee doesn't have it I've dried whole during its
first print now what I'm going to do is adjust my stroke length I do have a
couple images combines into the screen for the same job so I'm going to loosen
this up slide it back out of the way and then kind of rock this to the front and
it's printing will set way I know it is actually going to clear the graphics
that should be pretty good now I'm gonna push my block until it stops and then
I'm just going to let Snug it up don't over tighten these guys you don't have
to tighten it up too too much with these little rubber pieces here they keep them
pretty much from moving so I'm going to Snug that up and that will keep it from
going anywhere now what I'm going to do next is I'm
just going to take my squeegee and I'm gonna give it a look of a pre-flood that
way
this thing is not rubbing on a dry screen and it's also important to leave
your print head at the back whichever resting position you decide to keep it
in we have an arere for plastic saw ink so I'm going to keep this to the back so
when I turn print on you'll see it goes into its flood
position now for the sake of this demonstration which I'm going to
completely shove a bunch of eating torques back by turn printhead on with
it up here this whole thing is gonna turn on it's gonna kick on and slide
back and it's gonna push my horse back which is not what I want but I'm gonna
show you what what its gonna do so now we got you pushed to the back not too
big of a deal and you turn it off real quick we must weed you back a little bit
collect some of that ink turn printhead back on again
okay so now we're ready to do our first test breath okay I got my little test
fell on here later my palette palette still knives attack
me elections water-based adhesive all these little link down the description
where you got some of this stuff I'm gonna rotate this
under station number one now with print still on I'm going to I'm just going to
put it in single mode something to keep in mind guys if you do have the any of
these in double mode and you go to press when your manual mode buttons whatever's
in the double stroke feature it will print that so if there's nothing on that
pallet you will end up turning onto that pallet why it's set up that way I have
no idea but that is something that I learned and you may learn by accident so
now I'm going to go ahead and hit this manual mode button so let me see if I
can get this in the view I'm gonna hit the button and didn't do its first test
right now we may do this a couple times just make sure it does look like it went
the whole length I think I may I think I might increase print just a touch I'm
gonna go ahead and do that one more time
okay so now we have our first little test French register the rest of the job
on to now I'm about to show you some little tips to setting your angles for
each of your front with it in taper down mode that is going to be the flood angle
that is set up you'll have to turn print off in order to adjust these I know
about where I like mine I like mine said to basically have the steepest print
angle that way and get a nice print it will really press that in through the
mesh and then I like to have it set back just enough that way it has enough
pressure to move that beam across the screen some of the thicker inks you may
have put a little more pressure but be warned guys on your stations that do
have a flashback if you have too too much pressure on your your flood you can
see here where it is coming down just a little bit but if you have too much
pressure and your flashback I said really close to your table do you have
the risk the chance of your flashback actually hitting the bottom of the
screen and tearing your screen ask me how I know now to see where your actual
print angle is that I'm going to put this back underneath my station now I'm
going to table up real quick now you'll see that it flipped to the print
position let me table down and then the table
see now we can take a look at our actual print angle and at this point you can
actually adjust your your pressure so with me what I'd like to do is make sure
that it's kind of nice and firm that way I know that it's getting enough pressure
to clear the mesh you do not want to too much pressure because if you have too
much pressure what ends up doing is making your your blade just kind of
start to bend back like this and you don't end up getting too much the
results basically is you're not going to have a print that's going to clear the
mesh so too much pressure is bad you want just the right amount to clear the
mesh and basically just there's a fine point between having too much pressure
and which is just really smashing the the print down and it ends up not
clearing it whatsoever we're having too little and they're not clearing it again
you just got to find that that nice in-between spot with your stations that
do not have the flashback so it's definitely going to be easier like I
said just put your your print stations or your palates kind of in the
in-between point
take your screen just come up
then just push your screen back and then pop the front your screen in now I had
this lockdown at some point but we're all nice and situated now I'm going to
go through and set up the rest of the screens I got three more to do and then
I'm going to kind of do a pre-registration and then I'll show you
guys how to use the micro registrations
all right gang put some tape over my bass print registered everything up
inked all my screens up here obviously we got a red we got a cool gray here and
then we have a metallic beep it's a silver metallic then we got our white
highlight apologize my camera did die while I was trying to demonstrate how to
use the micro registration all right so what we're gonna do at this point is I'm
going to turn all the heads on that have colors which is two three four and five
when I turn one off because we do not need the white bass print and I'm going
to put it in sample mode I'm gonna go ahead I'm just going to put it in
automatic mode now I'm going to go ahead and put this in sample mode now you'll
see the palette here will go around if I had this activated that would print so
it's not going to print that white you want to be careful not to get too close
in between these stations here while it is an auto mode so now he's gonna flood
and you can take a look at my angle there it's fairly
and you could hear that screen stick to the palace one of the things I was
telling you guys about that's coming over this steak can view our full brain
next is going to go over to our metallic silver you can see it's fairly upright
and have it going out of nice not too quick and lastly why it looks like I
could probably use a little bit more of a flood angle because it didn't flood I
know that ink now it's gonna come over here to station number six it will
finally rest over here
and now it will just talk
all right now that we have our samples print done and we're ready to go to
production what i'm going to do is warm up these pallets i got my two flashbacks
on and then we'll show you how all this works during the process of hope I was
hoping to show you during the kind of setup sample process of buds I'll show
you how all this is working when it's an automatic mode and we have some shirts
on the press but you have to warm this thing up first so what I'm going to do
I'm gonna make sure print is off and I'm just gonna put it in Auto Start pallets
we'll just rotate around and go underneath the flash and I'll let that
warm up dryer is warming up so we got this one set to print print flash I want
it to just print print that white face
and then our other flash over here
I think we may set this to print flattering because we are not using a
white base underneath this silver so that will make it a nice bright silver
so I'm going to let this year and we'll be right back and I'll show you this
thing in action and how the print comes up