hey guys I am back out in the shop working on the cr250 once again so what
I've got going on today I'll be replacing all the shock leakage bearings
and if you remember right when I went to go pull apart this linkage all the
bearings fell apart and it was a complete disaster with the help of my
friends over at pivot works I've got a linkage rebuild kit here it's got all
the bearings seals and bushings that I'll need to make this linkage brand-new
again and what's cool is it doesn't require any special tools to rebuild the
linkage here's where I'm at with a linkage right now two of the bearings
are out and this is what it looked like when I pulled it apart just a bunch of
bearings and rust and dirt pretty nasty of course the first step is going to be
to push these two bearings out as well as all these bearing races I'll be using
a vise and a couple of sockets to knock the old bearings out of the linkage the
larger socket fits on the outside diameter the linkage just like that and
the smaller socket goes on the inside this is what's gonna push the bearing
race out of the linkage I'm gonna set up the linkage in the vise just like this
with one socket on the inside making contact with the bearing race and the
other socket on the outside of the linkage so I should be able to tighten
the vise down and I'll push those bearing races right out of the linkage
and this just occurred to me I have actually never done this before so I'm
learning just as much as you guys are if your races are being stubborn like these
ones are you may want to apply some heat to help it out
this bearing has two races one on each side
I pushed the one race over to the other and now it's getting a bit difficult so
I'm gonna apply some more heat to give it a hand well this is pretty slick the
races are actually moving on their own just because of the heat as long as I
have pressure with the bike here once I apply heat the races will slide over by
themselves
so if I didn't explain this earlier what's happening is the smaller socket
is pushing the races out and into the larger socket so we've got one race out
and the other one is just about there I'm just gonna knock it out the rest of
the way with hammer Creek that's hot Oh burning my hands over here alright
one last smashing it will be out all right so that's one set of bearing races
I've got one more up here and then another set right here
it's amazing how big of a difference adding heat makes I don't think I'd be
able to push these races out without the torch
those ones came out pretty easy just got one left now all right that's it for
this piece onto the connecting arm
it looks like we've got some blind bearings on this connecting arm so what
that means is the center diameter is smaller than the diameter of the bearing
so that way I can't push the bearings all the way through like I did with the
other ones so I lied you guys you actually do need some special tools to
pull out these bearings I'll be using a blind bearing puller for this situation
first off I'm gonna have to empty all the needles out of the race
all right so I found the right size polar insert for this linkage it's gonna
pop it in place and when I tighten down this bolt here it's gonna expand and
I'll be able to attach the slide hammer to this insert and pull the bearing out
of the linkage with the linkage in the vise and the slide hammer attached I
should be able to apply some heat and yank this race right out that was
actually a lot easier than I anticipated this slide hammer worked pretty good the
linkage is now completely bare just gonna give it a little cleanup before I
pop in this new bearing set
all right I'm gonna lay out all these bearings bushings and seals make sure I
got everything and then start slapping this thing back together looks like
everything is here got the seven bearings all the pins seals dust caps
and they even included some grease so I am all set so once again I'll be using
the vise and a couple of sockets to press these bearings into place I'm
going to start with this bearing right here before I pop the bearing into place
I'm gonna apply some grease to the inside of the linkage
and it's also not a bad idea to apply some grease to the bearing as well on
this first part I'm not going to need any sockets just gonna get the bearing
started and pushed all the way in until the vise bottoms out you'll definitely
want to make sure the bearings is straight before you start cranking on
the vise at all at this point the vise bottomed out so I'm gonna have to use
the socket to push the bearing in the rest of the way so I've got one bearing
in now I'm gonna pop the other side in one thing I didn't mention earlier is
there's a rounded side and a flat side to the bearing the flat side of the
bearing is marked you always want to go with the mark side facing out
all right I've got both bearings pressed in till they're flush with the inside
surface now I'm going to set the depth the depth on these two bearings should
be six to six and a half millimeters from the outside surface of linkage here
so I've got my handy dandy calipers here and I'm gonna measure the depth
hopefully it's around six millimeters we are at five point five so it needs to go
a little bit deeper gonna go ahead and measure that again we are at six point
one so that is within the recommended range and of course it's always a good
idea to stuff a bunch of grease inside the bearing to keep your lubed up this
is about as packed as you can get as far as grease goes never hurts to be on the
safe side I'm just gonna grease up the bushing as well and slide that into
place
let's see how she spins man that is smooth that's a good feeling right there
and then on this particular bearing there's a washer that goes on each end
and of course it wouldn't be complete without some fresh seals and dust caps
just going to apply a little bit of grease to the inside of the linkage
before I pop in those seals
just going to make sure it's pressed in and straight and I'm going to move on to
the other side and last but not least got some dust caps got one bearing out
of the way only three more to go
all right on the second bearing I've got both sides pressed until they're flush
now I'm going to set the depth the recommended depth on these ones is four
point four to four point seven millimeters this side is just under four
millimeters so I'm gonna have to press it in just a little bit more I'm just
about at four point four millimeters and I'm gonna call that good now I'm just
gonna pack the bearing with grease and pop everything together
now it's on to the last bearing for this triangle piece so for this one I'm going
to press it all the way into the linkage and then Center it to Center the bearing
I'm going to use the calipers to measure the depth on each side until it's equal
on this side were at one point three four and this side looks pretty close
maybe a little bit deeper oh it's at two point three six all right one side we've
got two point one one
and 1.53 still a little bit more work
one point seven seven and one point seven five so that is going to be close
enough the seals and dust caps on the lower shock bearing are situated a
little bit differently so the seal goes over the dust cap just like so and then
it is pressed into the linkage so with the smaller part of the dust cap facing
out well folks that is it for the triangle piece just got a few bearings
left on the connecting arm it is time to pick the winner for the giveaway of the
scotch-brite wheel from the previous video it's gonna head over here to the
random comment picker looks like we had a thousand 82 comments and once I click
this button it's gonna pick a complete random comment and that comment will be
the winner all right we've got Deegan m and he says 2002 cr125 well d again i
hope you can find a use for the scotch-brite wheel I'm gonna grab your
shipping address and nail that thing over to you
Congrats dude thanks for all the comments everyone it was really cool to
see all the bikes that you guys have pressing the bearings into the
connecting arm is gonna be pretty straightforward there's a ridge down
here inside the link I'm just gonna push the bearings all the way in till they
meet that Ridge
all righty guys the linkage is now 100% back together and I am really happy with
how this thing turned out the pivot works bearing kit had everything I
needed and the whole setup went together very smoothly so if you guys are in need
of any sort of bearing for your bike whether that's wheel bearings or leakage
bearings like the ones I just installed or perhaps you need a shock or fork
rebuild kit definitely go check out pivot works I would highly recommend
them I'll put the link to the website as the first one down in the description
below thanks for watching the video guys I will catch up with you all in a few
days take care