Howdy, guys and gals! I'm Kyle Broderick. Welcome back to the Social
Regressive, and back to the Savage 12FV rifle where we are going to
begin on ammo. We're moving to ammo now instead of doing the pillar bedding and
epoxy bedding on here because we had we've had a bunch of questions in the
past: does pillar bedding and epoxy bedding make a difference? So what
we're gonna do is we're gonna tune up the ammo first. We'll come up with a good
load and then we'll see if after pillar bedding and epoxy bedding whether those
groups shrink even further. I'm expecting good performance with the furniture as-is,
but I do expect that when we put in some of that hardware we may see some of
the groups shrink up; and I think mostly overall we'll just see a bit more
consistent performance all the way around. But yeah, we are going to test it.
The ammo that we are loading up is 6.5 Creedmoor. We're
working with FC brass and today in this video we're just doing brass prep. We're
gonna get this ready. I have some new kind of tips and tricks that I've been
using lately to get things done; a little bit faster, it's more precise I think
than some of the things that I've done in the past, but it's also a good bit
faster. I'm going to show you some of the equipment that I've been using here in
the background. the ammo that we're going to load up these are 147-grain
Hornady ELD-M projectiles these are, as you can see, quite long. they are... it's
quite a big 6.5 projectile, and these are gonna get us a very high ballistic
coefficient. you're going to move a little bit slower out of the
muzzle than the 140s. but these are going to be much quicker through the air
overall. they're going to arrive on target at that really long range quite a
bit sooner and probably stay supersonic quite a bit longer. so yeah, this is a
little bit of a different recipe. we are continuing to use CCI BR-2
primers and Reloder 16. that's going to be our total recipe. we'll get into that
in the next video, but for now let's just get to brass. let me show you what we're
dealing with. this is once fired brass. I think this
particular one went through the model 10 GRS from Savage. great rifle. if you want
to go check out those videos, I'll put the link in the description. this was a
very comfortable rifle, but no matter what rifle
we fire this through, if it came from a different chamber, then you really do
have to full-length size for the first time. we're not just going to do a
neck size on this and pop it in. that's a recipe for getting things stuck in the
the chamber. so we are going to full-length size this, and before we do
that I should point out that not all this ammo is as pretty as it should be.
this right here came from the CMMG mark 3 DTR 2, which is now the Endeavour. it's
the same brass, and it was probably firing the same projectile, but as you
can see a self-feeding rifle is going to kind of dirty up your brass a bit more. and I
think this one is extra dirty because it rattled around in my trunk. so yeah, these
both need to be cleaned first. as you can see, I'm old school, running a tumbler
instead of one of the cool kids' ultrasonic cleaners. I might get into one
of those someday, but this really does work great. although I did include one
change. I have been using corncob media for a
long time and I've been pretty disappointed with the results, so I have
switched over to walnut and have been very very happy. especially with a couple
tablespoons of Hornady one-shot metal polish inside there. this works great. the
results are much better, much cleaner, and it just, you know, it looks better. and the
neat thing about the the really fine walnut is that it doesn't stick inside
the flash hole. it just falls out.
here is my polished brass. well, kind of polished. I didn't let it go for a very
long time. we're going to come back at this I think afterward. we're gonna do a
second clean on this after we have done the full case size. and here's what we're
gonna be using. this is Hornady one-shot case lube and this stuff is awesome. it
takes so much time off of my usual job. as you've seen before in some of the
other videos that I produced a long while back I was using the
case lube pad and some of the liquid on there, and you know some kind of
little brush to get inside the neck. well this does it all in one go. you can see
that yeah, alright, you are paying for it. it's about 20 bucks for one of these
cans, and I really don't know how long this is gonna last, but I think it's well
worth it. this just takes so much time off the process. they call this Hornady
one-shot, but it's really two shot. you have to hit this from two sides as long
as you get the correct angle. and you have to be sure that you spray
downward at about a 45 degree angle because you not only want to get the outside of
the case you do have to get the inside of that case neck as well. so here we go.
for the resizing phase we're using the RCBS rock chucker supreme: the giant
Magnum overbuilt press that we talked about in a previous video. I'll link to
it over here. and then for the dies we are using RCBS. this is their two-die
set. and then when it comes time to do neck sizing, instead I did pick up one of
these Lee Collet Neck Sizers. they're brilliant. be sure that you buy one if
you have any bottleneck cartridges. and if you can read what's going on back
there then you can get a clue of what might be coming up in the near future.
trim to 1.920 inches per the specs. this book that I'm working from is the
speer reloading manual; the newest one. so this has all of their hottest new
powders like Reloder 16, which is what we're gonna be basing our load on, and
then we are trimming with the RCBS Trim Pro 2 - they do have a model that you can
hook up to a drill so you can get power, but really the handheld here does
everything that I need. now for all the fiddly little things that we have to do
to this brass to get it fully ready. we have a dirty primer pocket which may not
be uniform and we have cut the case mouth here on the trimmer, so we have
kind of a ring of metal going around. we need to chamfer and debur this, and
thankfully I don't have to use all those horrible little hand tools anymore, it's
not like that there was really any problem with them, but if you're doing
bulk brass it's very slow. very tedious. and it's nice to have something
like this that can do pretty much all of the work all in one shot. so let me show
you some of the tools that are on here. this is called the RCBS Brass Boss, and
this has six spinning stations. you can choose the speed that everything
spins at, and you can see that some of these do spin a little bit faster than
others. this little cutter wheel, for example is going quite fast back here,
and yeah, all of these actually come in the box so right here. this has all kinds
of power adapters if you're in Europe or wherever. you can get all kinds of
adapters to fit the the power supply that comes in here, and then it does come
with all these little cutters and a bunch of brushes as well if you want to
do your your case neck and mouth lubrication using those. but of course
the first things I'm going to do? I'm going to
deburr this. I'll probably need to take the speed up a little bit.
screaming at me. but yeah, they just cut that right off. get a little bit of brass
hanging on right. there. let's go ahead and crank this up just a tad. so yeah, I
got the outside cutter to get rid of any excess metal. let's chamfer the inside.
that'll help the projectile to seat a lot nicer. and then we have some other primer
pocket tools right here. back here, this is actually a cutter for cutting out the
military primer that you may have in some of your brass, which is a huge help
for me. I use a lot of Lake City brass for 223 and for 308, and even converting
down to 7mm-08. and yeah some of the other tools that are
out there are just horrible. some of them break pretty easily. but
this one is really nice. you just drop it on there and it cuts it out. this is
commercial brass. this is FC, so we don't need anything like that, but we do have a
primer pocket uniforming tool so that right there is going to cut out any
excess metal that might be in there and give you the correct depth. and then this
is a cleaner that's going to remove any carbon buildup inside there. and... oh, look
how that shines. bee-utiful. this brass is now ready to go back into
the tumbler for a final clean, and then we can load it up.
those were a whole lot of steps but now we should have some good consistent
brass that we can use when we load up in the next video. be sure that you like,
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could be 24 hours before everybody else gets to see the videos. you can actually
watch them through Facebook. and I provide some kind of extra content on
there as well. you might enjoy that. but I really do want to be sure you don't
miss the next video, because we're heading in a different direction with
these loads than I have in the past. I've done ladder loads. I've done optimal
charge weight. and I've gotten excellent results with both of those, but usually
there's something just a little bit missing. I'll get a tight group. but the
velocities are kind of weird, and so at some of the longer distances you're
starting to get vertical stringing. and you know maybe with the other maybe I
get good velocities but the groups open up. what we're trying to do here is we're
trying to align those those kind of two lines. if we can find an intersection
point between excellent consistent velocities and excellent consistent
group sizes that we're going to be cooking. so we're going to use a method
that Eagle Eye - I'll put a link to his channel here in the sidebar and down in
the description below - because you really need to go check him out. he's been using
kind of a modified Satterlee method which is typically designed to find the
best velocities and it doesn't really care about groups. well, he's been using
kind of a hybrid method to find not only good velocities, but good group sizes as
well and find out where those intersect. so we're gonna be playing with that in
the next video and I think it should work out really well. we'll find out. a
big thank you to everybody that has made these videos possible. thank you to the
manufacturers that have provided some of the parts that you see on here. thank you
to Patrons of the Destructive Arts out on Patreon that have actually purchased
the rifle and some of the consumables and other things that you see here on
the bench. you guys are making it happen. thank you to Sportsman's Guide and Stan
and Mary at the 338 Lapua Magnum levels. and to Peter at the
300 Win Mag level. and thanks a bunch to just everybody that has chipped in a
buck or two a month to help keep these videos coming. I really do appreciate it.
I also do have postcards for a bunch of you guys that I'm behind on. they're
actually sitting on my desk right now. I just have to get the addresses on 'em and mail
em out. it's just one of the other things that kind of fell behind when I was
dealing with some of these other things in the background. but yeah, those are
coming. and if anybody else wants to become a patron of the destructive arts
I'll put a link in the sidebar and in the description down below. just for a
buck or two a month you can help to keep videos like this coming. I have some
crazy ideas for some some projects in the future, and we'll see if we can realize
those. I will see you all around. thanks for watching if you like this
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