it is springtime all the snow is thankfully melted so I'm gonna take you
guys through what I do to my bikes to get him ready for the riding season so
here I've got my 2005 cr125 she's looking pretty clean but like any bike
it's gonna need some work to get it ready for some riding the first thing
I'm gonna cover is checking over the fluids and making sure everything is
lubed up on this bike we've got coolant engine oil brake fluid and of course
fuel for coolant it's as simple as its popping off the radiator cap and looking
inside looks like it's pretty well topped off if you guys are curious this
is the coolant thought I use engine nice really good stuff if you're unsure of
when your coolant was last changed or you haven't swapped it out for the past
year so I would recommend changing out for something like engine ice now for
oil with this bike being a two-stroke it's only got gear oil so there's a fill
plug up here no dipstick and then a check plug for checking the oil level
since this bike does not have a dipstick you be able to check the oil level by
pulling out to check bolt once you pull the bolt out a little bit of oil should
come out provided the bike is sitting level preferably on a stand and for oil
I use a shell rotella T 1540 and I change it out at 10 hours of ride time
so about every four to five rides alright that's it for the oil situation
now I'm gonna check the brake fluid and it's as simple as just looking at the
site windows on the brake master cylinders I'm actually gonna take it a
step further and bleed these brakes a little since it has been a while and
I've got a new little bleeding tool motion Pro sent over this mini bleeder
tool for me to try out never useful before so this should be fun so how this
bleeder Tool Works is slides onto the bleeder valve on the caliper looks like
I'll have to pull off the guard to access it but it slides on and it's got
a check valve inside of here so that way you can leave the bleeder valve loose on
the caliper and focus on pumping the brakes and keeping up on the fluid level
let's give it a shot
now with the bleeder tool McHale / I'm gonna crack this valve loose so this
wrench actually moves around so you can get it in the right position he's gonna
crack this thing loose and start bleeding the brakes so I'm just gonna go
about a quarter turn loose right there and I'm actually gonna put the end of
the hose on this tool into the cap of a water bottle so that should contain the
fluid right there ah shoot I got my gloves back in there yeah the master
cylinder cap will need to come off so that way I can add fluid
now with the bleeder tool on the caliper I can just pump the brakes and not have
to worry about opening and closing the bleeder valve on the caliper but of
course I'll need to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder I'm just
gonna top off the master cylinder of fluid before I start bleeding the brakes
so this is the brake fluid I've got around the shop right now
just regular Honda dot 4 brake fluid and you want to make sure you use the
correct spec brake fluid if your cap says dot for use dot for so how this
works is we want to have the valve open and I push down the brake pedal
it'll push fluid and air out of the system but the one-way valve won't let
air back in so I'm gonna push down the pedal right now and see it pushed out
some fluid and it didn't let any air back in once I pump the brakes a few
times and close that valve back up the brakes should have some great pressure
takes a few pumps and build the pressure back up
but now the pedal feels great man that tool is super nice to have works a lot
better than I would have guessed takes all the hassle out of bleeding brakes so
I'm gonna run the master cylinder down three times and that should get the
majority of the old fluid out of the system so I'm only going down till
there's about half the flew it in the sight window here don't really want to
go any further down that
all right that should be good for bleeding it's gonna close up this valve
and pull it off the caliper just gonna pop this master cylinder cap back on and
I'll be all finished up and then the process for bleeding the front brakes is
going to be very similar now for gas I mix it 32 to 1 and I use Maxima castor 9
to 7 I'm gonna mix up some fresh fuel for
this thing
we're gonna see if the old 125 still runs
bike seems to be run on prime so I'm gonna take out riding this upcoming
Saturday if you guys are in Washington State
more specifically the Spokane area join me over at the seven-mile or Vee Park
I'll be out there this upcoming Saturday April 14th and then the day after that
April 15th I'll have these new prime of X shirts
available over on the website prime MX com
so mark your calendars for that too all right now it's on to making sure what
needs to be lubed up is lubed up and that includes the cables clutch lever
throttle chain and some of the bearings I'm gonna start with the easiest thing
first lubing up the chain this is the chain lube that I prefer chain guard by
maxima and I'll be spraying it in here on the inside of the chain near the
chain guide now to have a buttery smooth clutch lever most importantly you got to
have a greased up here in the pivot and having a nice lever definitely helps to
the works can extra one I'm using here is a must have so I'll be completely
pulling apart this clutch lever and looping up the cable at the same time
this porch and lever were definitely in need of a cleanup Andrew greasing it's
been a while since I've freshen them up another thing that can be taken apart
and cleaned up is the cable adjuster having a smooth adjuster is a big plus
as for greasing lately I've been using this mini grease gun a ton super handy
to have and it puts the grease exactly where you want it
got the lever and the cable adjuster working super smooth now it's on the
looping up the cable and once again motion Perl hooked it up they sent over
their cable looping tool along with the cable loop now I've never used this
design before should be interesting so here I've got the tool out of the
package looks like a pretty sweet setup just gonna thread the two pieces away
from each other looks like there's a seal inside of it so one color slips
over and then the seal goes on with the larger taper facing the end of the cable
so something like that now I'm gonna throw the other half of the tool onto
the cable until the seals are firmly seated
just got to make sure the plunger is all the way extended before I squirt it in
any Lube the next step is to take the straw from the cable lube and insert it
into the tool all the way and now it's as simple as just spraying the lube into
the tool this is crazy there's not cable loops spraying all over the place like
with the other cable looping tools I've used in the past all right I should have
enough Lube in the cable now I'm gonna pull out the straw and to get as much
Lube out of the housing as possible I'm gonna depress the plunger here now the
real test is the check out the other end of the cable and see if it's soaked from
the lube oh yeah she's wet can't wait to get this thing back together and see how
smooth the lever is now for the clutch cable slack this is super important and
it's something I'm really picky about so I like to go until there's about the
width of a quarter here between the perch and the lever so I'm just tugging
on the cable a little bit with some tension and simultaneously pulling in
the lever and you'll be able to feel the amount of slack the cable has there so
right about there is right where I like it and generally this is where most
people like it as well and you definitely don't want to have no slack
at all that'll burn your clutch up right away and too much slack your clutch
won't engage very well that is unbelievably smooth now really impressed
with the job that this little cable would be tool did most definitely the
best cable living tool I've used today now for the throttle I'm gonna take it
apart wipe it down and grease it up but this definitely is not as important as
the clutch lever if you have a sticky throttle most likely it's the cable or
the throttle tube hitting on the end of the handlebar
was definitely worth pulling this one apart to clean up so it's just a matter
of wiping things down and greasing it back up
all right I've got the throw housing together cables on the tube and just
gonna make sure everything's working smoothly here so I'm gonna slide the
throttle onto the handlebars all the way and then back it out just a little bit
maybe like a quarter inch or so if you have a throttle all the way on to the
handlebars where the tube is hitting the end of the bars you'll have a sticky
throttle and then if you back it out a little bit that's right where you want
it it's getting everything tightened up here and then check the throttle one
last time sweet nice and smooth now it is possible to use the cable looping
tool on the throttle cable but you'll need to go from the carburetor or
throttle body end whatever you have if you Lube from the top here they'll dump
a bunch of cable lube into your carburetor or throttle body now I'm
gonna take a peek at some of the bearings on the bike make sure they're
in good shape for the wheel bearings I'm gonna move the wheel laterally to see if
there's any movement to them looks like it's good to go and now to check the
shock linkage bearings pull upward on the swing arm and you'll be able to see
if there's any movement in them if you pull up on the swing arm and there's
some slop there chances are it's the lower shock bearing but it could also be
these other three bearings as well or the top shock bearing two now the swing
arm pivot bearings don't wear out that often but if you have a worn set you'll
feel some sloppiness there or some stiffness when you compress the rear of
the bike what I look for with the steering step bearings is any notch eNOS
or just a rough feeling when I'm turning the front end this one feels pretty good
now this isn't a bearing but it needs to be greased as well the kick starter
pivot so when it kicked over the kick starter just go right back into place if
you have a sticky kick starter you can pull apart the pivot clean it up and we
greased it I do have a video on that on the channel so head over there and check
it out one thing I'll check out before every
single ride is the tire pressure of course I go 14 psi up front and 12 in
the rear as you guys know keeping up when your spokes is super critical as
well so my spoke maintenance consists of check
the spokes every three to four rides I would say let us go through and tighten
the spokes evenly and my process for this is I'll start at either the rim
lock or the valve stem tighten the first spoke skip to tighten the third skip to
tighten all the way around till I come back to that starting point and then
move to a second spoke follow the same pattern all the way around and then hit
the third spoke all the way around again and at that point every spoke will have
been tightened evenly and I only usually go about an eighth or a quarter turn on
each spoke depending on how tight it already is periodically I'll go through
and do a general check over of all the bolts on the bike the ones that are most
frequent to come loose are the kick starter bolt the sprocket and rotor
bolts and all of the plastic hardware so those are the ones you really need to
keep an eye on I know this video is getting super long but there's just a
few more things I want to cover so for the suspension seals
I'll compress the forks or the shock and look for fluid on the tubes so if you
have a leaky seal it'll be pretty evident next up is the brake pads and
rotors for the pads you just want to make sure there's sufficient material
left over looks like these ones are getting down
there but still some life left on the rotor I'll run my finger from the
mounting surface to the braking surface and if there's a lip there that means
the rotor has some wear most rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on it this
one is three point five mil so you can just go ahead and measure the rotor and
see if it meets the spec also a great idea to check over your sprockets you
want to look for bent or hooked out teeth and the last thing you want to
make sure you have a clean and oiled air filter as you can see I'm running a
filter skin big fan of them they work really well to make it easy on you guys
I'll link all the tools and supplies they use throughout the video down below
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