Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to rebuild the master cylinder on our 2003 Honda Rancher
350.
As you can see, it needs a little bit of help.
So, let me go grab a couple of tools and I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright this is going to be a skill level two.
just barely, so don't let it scare you.
As far as the tools that we're gonna need?
Gonna need an 8 and a 10 mm socket, a 12, 10, and an 8 mm just wrench, a decent Phillips,
a pair of needlenose pliers, a pick tool, a soft-blow hammer, and most important, these
little guys right here.
those are to remove the circlips down inside the master cylinder.
When you're looking at the parts diagram, notice that there is a kit that has all of
this in one little plastic bag and that's what you're gonna need to get this done.
So, once you have your tools, your parts, and you've viewed the drawings, we can get
started, so let's go.
start off by just going ahead and get the bolt out for the actual lever itself.
What I'm gonna do is go ahead and take it off, pull off that cover, and we're gonna
take off that banjo bolt and go ahead and drain the reservoir.
Alright, if you haven't taken off this cover before, chances are you're going to need one
of these.
It's an impact with a Phillips on the end of it.
But I have had it off recently, so just a regular Phillips will get it done.
Now, just want to get a container over here.
Go ahead and break this loose.
Get out any fluid that wants to drain out.
alright guys, well, we just pulled that off and I was expecting the reservoir to dump
it out a little bit, but evidently it's not because it actually has some air in the system
and we couldn't get it to bleed out.
So that tells me that it's actually pulling past the seal.
So, let's go ahead and get our-- taken off the handlebar, dump it out, and then we'll
pull it apart.
If you care about your decals or your plastics, try to keep them covered up the best you can
because brake fluid doesn't play well with decals.
She's loose but just more or less stuck on there now.
Just a light tap to break things loose.
Alright, dump that out.
Now let's head over to the teardown bench and pull it apart.
Alright, we're getting ready to open it up, and when you buy the rebuild kit from Honda,
it actually comes with another seal on the outside-- basically just a dust cap.
A new circlip and then your, here's your actual assembly.
What you've got there is the piston itself, both seals, and then the spring.
Let's go ahead and get off that dust seal.
Don't have to be too careful with it because we're not going to reuse it.
Next, get a set of long-nosed circlip pliers and get that circlip out.
The rest of the assembly will come through.
Alright, yeah, that's looking pretty nasty in there.
Initially looking at the two seals, you can look at the difference how these are kinda
mushroomed out on the end and these are basically just flattened all the way out.
So more than likely, it was pulling air past that one right there.
Alright, what we do want to do though is go ahead and spray this out with some brake cleaner.
Take a look at the bore, make sire there's no pitting.
Alright if you're going to use a brush on this, make sure it's just nylon tipped, because
we don't want to scar up anything in there.
Take it a little bit further.
The bottom of this, I see pretty nasty looking stuff that needs to come out.
Then a little bit more cleaning.
Alright, that's looking pretty good.
Let's put it back in our vice and see if we can get that new equipment in there.
Alright, when you're putting this back together, coat it down with just a little bit of DOT-4
brake fluid.
Especially on these two rubber seals that go on the piston.
And you also want to get some down into the bore itself.
Alright, that should do it.
Now let's see if we can get it to wiggle in there.
Alright, when you're putting this in, you need to make sure that you guide that lower
seal in so it doesn't try to bend around the wrong direction.
Alright, let's go ahead and get our snap ring set up.
And we're going to push down a little bit and get our snap ring in.
And you know if you did it right if you can just push it and it comes right back with
your finger.
So that should be good to go.
Now, get this little dirt seal on as well.
There's a groove that it rides in at the bottom and at the top there's a channel that it needs
to be guided down on-- on the piston itself.
There.
Now it's dead even with it.
Alright, so that wasn't so bad.
Let's take it out of the vice and get it back on the machine.
The reassembly is pretty much the exact reverse of what we did to take it off.
Alright, rotate that up.
That little line that's coming down off the throttle, you want that pretty much to point
into where those two joints mate.
About right there.
And according to Honda, they want you to tighten the top one first to where it's completely
flush and then finish it off on the bottom one.
And that's it.
Now, just go ahead and get our banjo bolt back in.
Remember it's got a washer on either side of it.
Just put a little bit of grease on that pivot bolt that goes on the clutch lever.
And then go ahead and pop it back on.
Just do that barely to where it's seated.
Then put on that bolt on the bottom.
That's pretty much the one that holds it on.
Because if you ever tighten this, then it'll probably end up breaking the housing or either
it will pinch down on it to where it won't rotate correctly.
So hold that top one.
then tighten it.
Alright guys, at this point all we need to do is just fill it back up and actually go
through the bleeding procedure.
And if you would, reference one of our videos and I can show you how to get hat done.
so that pretty much finishes this one up.
Listen, if you need any of the parts that we used to do this, why don't you find us
over at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll do my best
to answer them.
And until next time we just want to say thanks for watching.