(dramatic orchestral music)
From Taunton, our next stop would be the Cotswolds, a rural area south of central
England. At the Swallow's Nest, we woke to a world covered in raindrops. Our
passionate gardener host Sophie is a chef, and she had soaked muesli overnight
in apple juice, which she served with lemon balm tea, nature's espresso. As we
pulled out the gate, we vowed we would be back to this idyllic retreat. Rain
plagued our sightseeing all day, but we managed to make it to Hauser and Wirth
Gallery Arts Center in Bruton Somerset. which Sophie had recommended.
Contemporary art marries nature in the landscaped gardens, designed for the
gallery by renowned landscape architect Piet Oudolf, which includes a 1.5 acre
perennial meadow. Gardens and art, my two very favorite things. S few photos of the
grounds were all we managed in the light rain.
After two more hours of curvy wet roads, we approached Stow-on-the-wold, a market
town set on the top of an 800 foot hill.
GPS voice: Continue 2.2 miles, then turn right on Mount Pleasant.
I was quite done in by the time we reached our 17th century airbnb for the
night. We were greeted by fresh flowers from their garden and a comfy bed to
which I promptly retired and slept for 10 hours. Next morning, the skies had
cleared and so had my constitution. We got our first views of the cottage
garden. Our hosts, Catriona and John, or cat and JP, are
passionate gardeners and enjoy Cat's flowers from every level of their
courtyard.
Their cat is only interested in a sunny spot to nap. We got a tour of their new
lodging in the old coal bin building behind their residence, before Marie and
I set out on foot to tour the village, which is said to have originated as an
Iron Age fort with its defensive position on top of a hill. In 1646, the
last battle of the first phase of the English Civil War took place one mile
north of Stow-on-the-Wold. After initial royalist success, the superiority of the
Parliamentary forces overwhelmed and routed the Royalist forces. Fleeing the
field, the Royalists fought a running fight back into the streets of Stow
where the final action took place culminating in surrender
in the Market Square.
A must-see in Stow is St. Edward's Church, a Cotswold stone Norman
Church dating from the 11th to 14th century built on the location of an
older wooden Saxon Church. The medieval parish church doors at the west entry
are flanked by two ancient yew trees and believed to be the inspiration for the
Doors of Durin leading to the Land of Moira in middle-earth, by JRR Tolkien's
"The Lord of the Rings."
(light mysterious music)
(song ends)
(energetic piano solo)
Back in the Market Square, we did a little shopping for souvenirs, and I
found these solar-powered garden fountains of interest. But, I was
traveling light, and had a long way to go, so I bought a printed dish towel to
remember the Cotswolds by.
(piano and cello)
We worked our way back to our lodgings as Cat and JP had promised to show us
their allotment. You can see that in a separate video coming up. Here's a better
look at the repurposed iconic phone booths in England. Four miles south of Stow
we came upon the picturesque twin villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter
linked by the tiny River Eye, a popular tourist stop. In Lower Slaughter, the
local attraction is a converted mill with original waterwheel, craft store, and
cafe. Two small bridges cross the stream running through the village and a hiking
trail runs alongside. Between the two villages, one passes by stone fences,
wildflowers, sheep grazing in meadows,
and large enviable properties.
And, of course, churches, lots of churches, with their accompanying graveyards. The
unusual name of Slaughter derives from the Old English name for a wetland slough
or slougher, Old English for muddy place upon which it lies. The Slaughters are
known for their unspoiled limestone cottages in the traditional Cotswold
style.
(soft piano solo)
And like all of the U.K., flowers are everywhere. Climbing rose bushes are a
common sight. I returned from England determined to have one on my house.
(piano solo ends)
(church bells ring)