(Guitar Scales And Symbol)
(Guitar music)
- So we bought this MGB as a ex-race car,
and when we dug into the suspension,
there was almost nothing upgraded
in a way that made any sense.
It's not usually you can just stick your hand
in and pull the coil springs out.
It's not a good sign.
Besides that, the whole front end is basically stock.
So we went to Moss Motors and we got their coil over kit,
It's pretty sweet, it replaces the upper and lower arms.
These have what are called lever shocks, up front,
so instead of having a linear shock
that works with a rod inside of a case,
it is, sort of a box, and it bolts right
to the upper arm and it's super weird.
So we're going to get rid of that
and convert it over to a regular linear shock.
They sent us over some shocks,
our buddies at QA1 replicated those with
ring rates that we like, so we can
run QA1 stuff all the way around.
(slow guitar music) (hammer and power tools)
So what they want you to do is
bolt this template plate in to your
upper lever arm mount, and drill like 65 little baby holes.
And then I guess- - Then you knock it out.
- Knock it out.
But we're just going to hammer it out with a plasma cutter.
- I am either going to cut a hole in this,
or cut a hole in my arm, one or the other.
- Try for both.
- Something's getting cut. That's all I got to say.
(metal grinding)
- So the Moss Motors' kit replaces
that upper arm slash lever shock,
with some billet blocks, and two piece upper arms,
and a place to bolt the coil over in the middle.
So the other part of the kit is to replace
the central part of the lower arm,
which is just a spring pocket,
with this insert which is now,
picking up a coil over, shock and spring combo.
(soft guitar music)
(power tools)
- Okay so the upper and lower control arms
are installed, the QA1 shocks are installed.
I see these rotors have seen an enormous amount of heat,
do you know anything about that?
- No. Couldn't be me. Was probably me,
uh, holding on for dear life ...
- They're still smoking from the
last time you drilled them. - Yeah they're terrible.
- So because we had to move the
steering rack forward and down a little bit,
in our MG to clear the 425 liter engine,
I had to now move the sway bar. I built these spacers
and I'm going to make a much shorter end length
to connect it to this lower A arm.
(drilling)
And so that's it for the front sway bar,
I lowered the bar down the four inches to clear the motor,
and then wound up using a much shorter end length
to connect it to the control arm,
and it should be good to go, and hopefully
Lucky's done with the back.
- So I just got done fabricating a little
rear sway bar mount, that doubles as a floor reinforcement,
'cause the fuel fail's going to sit back here.
Fix it with fire!
There's a lot of things on this car that are going to break.
However, the rear sway bar, slash
floor reinforcement mount, will not break.
Maybe.
- Alright so Lucky's buttoning up the rear suspension,
just a couple odds and ends,
making sure everything is tight and
we're good to go back there.
Now the car's going to be a four lug
regular bolt on wheel in the back,
so I went out, found a MG Triumph
dismantler in Ohio, that sent me these regular
bolt up four lug hubs so I can run
a regular wheel in the front, too, so they'll match.
And what's nice is I also took this opportunity
to go to Moss Motors and finally upgrade
the terrifying breaks on these things.
They have a cool slotted and drilled rotor
package that comes with EVC pad,
green ones which are pretty burley.
So between these front breaks and rears that actually work,
this thing might be somewhat safe to drive.
(bass music) (power tools)
So those sweet breaks are finally on the car,
one last thing to make sure this thing actually handles,
I went up to my buddies at FALK
and they sent over a couple of 205/50 15 RT615K,
these tires are awesome and, you know what,
it's time to take this thing to the track.
- We're going to paint it black, and hit the track.
(spraying)
(guitar music)