Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan
in last week's video we started to make a handle for the headstock on the lathe
we started with this steering wheel removing the rubber from the back to get a flat face
so that this would then go up against the back of the headstock on the lathe
this week we start to make the mandrel that goes through the wheel
that locates into the back of the wheel
and then gives us an expanding part this end that grips the bore in the headstock
so as you tighten a nut up on the end this opens out grips the bore
you can turn the headstock by using the steering wheel
to control the position of the chuck
so let's go to the workshop a see how we do it
so today we're making the body of the headstock handle
and I'm making it out of this 30 millimeter diameter piece of steel
I've put my 4 jaw chuck on because the 30mm diameter will go further into the chuck than on my 3 jaw
So on my 3 jaw chuck I would need to hold the end just in the jaw here where it goes back into the chuck about 2"
What I want to do is rough this out put centres in it
so I can do the final finishing cuts between centres which means I can remove it from the lathe try the fit
and then put it back in the lathe to take a bit more off or polish it
first thing I want to do in here is get this running true
and I've already set the jaws up so this is running out
a thou in the middle but
obviously each n depends where you go it will run run out more
depending on how your chuck is
it's running out 0.004"
so I've taken the middle part to balance it out
with this revolving centre in I have a problem when the tool post is the normal way
it's all on this side like that I can't get the tool tip far enough back
with out an angle to the tool post which then makes it awkward when I come down here
so what I've done is just put the tool on the other side
so that I can now come into the the face and I only need to go along 70 mil which is about there
to machine this this diameter
this diameter is 29mm and this diameter is 22mm
which is just over the bore size of each component that I want it to fit
so I've just roughed this out
now before a part this off here I want to drill a hole in the end
and form the cone on the inside to fit the cone nut that we already made
this length is 70mm and this length is 70mm
so with my 6mm drill I need to go in at least halfway
now because I'm going deeper than the flute on the dril
l as soon as this part enters the hole it stops the swarf coming out and jams up the drill
so what I'm doing is pulling the drill out every now and again cleaning out the swarf
and then continuing to drill
so if we look at the nut that we made that's the tapered nut which has to go in a hole in the end here
so the next job I want to do is drill a hole 12mm and go down 30mm
so what I'm doing at the moment is just boring this out until this taper nut
that we made will just start to go in the bore
now I've bored that out just so this goes in to there
so now what I need to do is bore this out to the correct taper
I've set my compound slide to the one and a half degrees the other way
so I can now use my boring bar to bore that hole to one and a half degree taper
an easy way just put your taper nut in is just fitted to a 6mm bolt
so now you can put that in there and it just goes in and stops about 22mm into the bore
so I can pull this nut in that far before it hits the bottom of the bore
and I need the nut to go in to the bore this end because
I want to put a small pin in there that will locate the nut and stop it turning
because I've drilled and bored this end of the mandrel
I've now lost my centre
so the last thing to do is just machine a centre 60-degree cenrer in the end
so when I part this off I still have the centre in this end
turn it around in the chuck put the centre in the other end
and I can machine it between centers to get the final finish
now if you're not sure whether you've
got the compound slide set right what you can do is take your centre
just press the point up against the edge of the compound slide and the Morse
taper or the end of the center should be parallel with your tail stock
that will give you an idea whether you've got the angle set properly on your compound slide
there's a chamfer on the very end just enough to locate a centre in
I tried this using my normal tool that I use and it chipped the corner off
and I had a lot of vibration with that
so I've gone to a 3mm insert
and this seems to be cutting it okay I'm not going to go all the way through
because this is quite a big piece of metal to have drop onto your lathe bed
so what I'm going to do part it down to about a quarter of an inch and then just
saw the last bit of so I can control the the metal
that's a six mil hole right the way through its in this end we've got the
center hole and six millimeter hole all the way through that's just been roughed out
this end we've got the taper for the nut the nut goes in just below the surface
I've fitting my tool post drill with a centre drill in I've moved from the
edge of the component down 30mm and I want to drill four holes around the outside of this diameter
and the easiest way to do that is use the chuck and then by putting a fixed bar onto the bed
Turn it round until the chuck jaw hits it and now you've set that chuck
and all I do is drill a hole then turn it around to the next jaw drill the next hole
I'm putting a slight counter sink on the hole so now I'll turn it round to the next hole
I've put the part between centres I've put the driving plate on driving dog
A centre in this end and a revolving centre in this end now I don't need
to put any oil or any grease on the center's this one's revolving so it's
already got bearings and grease this one turns with the part so there should be
no wear in the bore of this
because I machine the centre's in the chuck afterwards we'll just see what the run out of this is
that's about 0.0005" each division is a tenth that's about half of their there
and this one looks about the same so the next job is to machine this down to get
it running true which is just take a light skim and then starts to machine this end down
so if it's the boss on the steering wheel
okay this is to set up
I've put my tool on the right-hand side of the tool post normally you'd have it
on this side by the time I get down to the end of this diameter the tool post
is right over here I've also checked that this driving dog
is clear of hitting the tool post so that's clear I don't need to go any further than the end of this
so I'm machining this diameter down to get it to run true
I have a millimetre left on here so I will take a light skim off
and this is the reason why I put the centres in because I can take this out and checkout for size on the part
and it still doesn't go in so that's like a press fit in there
what I've done is just gone down about a 0.001"on the very end
so that would give me a lead
Now that's a surprise this bush in the middle of the steering wheel is ground and hardened
and its way it just starts to go in this is going in I'll
turn it over on this side it goes right in
so this is a tapered bore in the middle and that's a good fit in there
so all I need to do now is finish off the face
so that gives me a flat face let's put a chamfer on the outside
so the next thing you need to do is drill on tap at the end of this bore
I'll set up the tap this is a 12mm tap and I want to go in about 30mm deep
so that's the 12mm thread in the end
so all I need to do to finish this off now is make the slits to join the end
this is the steering wheel this is the mandrel we've made so far tapered bore
we've put four holes around the outside and on this end we've reduced the diameter
so it fits in the wheel you can see that won't go in this side if I turn it over
and put in in there it fits in there right up to the face and on this end we've drilled
and tapped a 12 millimeter hole so the next thing to do is fit this to the
wheel so it won't rotate and finish off the slots so this part will expand when
I pull the tapered nut in
well that's it for today I hope that was useful
hope it was interesting for you and we'll see you next time
on Enots engineering