Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com and welcome back to our
build series of a 2018 Honda Grom. Now today, we're going to be focused in on
replacing what they call the rear set, and it's comprised of the foot pegs as
well as your brake and your shifting control. It's a complete kit from
Driven. There is only one additional part that you're going to need to order
because this actually eliminates that pull switch that activates your brake
light. You're gonna need to get a hydraulic type switch. Now believe it or
not, we're actually building this thing up and we're gonna give it away, so if
you're interested in the entering to win the sweepstakes, check the link in the
description below and it's going to carry you to a landing page where you
can enter. Now as far as the special tools go? Well, there aren't any. But
there's one thing that you're going to need to pick up and that is some blue
Loctite because we're talking about control points here, so it all needs to
stay together. Very important. Well now that we've got our special tool and our
parts together, let's get over to the machine and get this thing done.
The game plan here, we're going to start over on the left side. First we need to
get the shift mechanism removed from the actual input shaft for the shifting. Then,
we are going to put the jack under it and just lift the weight off of it,
because what's going to happen when we remove these two bolts-- the bottom one no
big deal-- this top one it actually goes through the swing arm all the way to the
other side and through the engine. So we need to support all this so it doesn't
collapse. So let's go ahead, reach in and get that shifter off. Just a
10-millimeter-- will leave it in place and then it should come away and come off
the shaft when we remove this outer plate. This is a twelve millimeter. A
fourteen on this side that'll actually stay in place. The other side has a 19.
Next let's put some support under it. You don't have to lift it just support the
weight. Now to keep things well, loosely together we're just going to use a steel
rod. This is roughly a half inch. We're going to use that to push through and
more or less hold the bike together. so we're starting to push through. Let's go
ahead and pull it off the shift. there we go.
Piece of cake. There's a little bit more going on on this side. Obviously let's
start by getting the exhaust bracket out of the way. Of course we will be
replacing the exhaust, so I'm not so worried about the lack of a mount for it
on this particular setup. Just another 12 down low. Drive that in a little bit further.
Now with those two out of the way, now what you can at least bring it out and
lift it up, that way we can access our linkages and
get all this unplugged. Just a whole lot easier than trying to work on it with it
still attached to the machine. Let's start by getting this cotter pin out of
the way. That pin will push through unless I get the body unbolted. So we get
that pin spin around and clear. See how much clearance there, but it will come
out. Next we just need to follow our brake light wires up to a clamp. There we
go. Everything's pulled apart, but before we can start putting it together, we
need to make a decision as to where we want our foot pegs to be, because as you
can see they had multiple locations. I'm going to pull it back to the five
location on both sides. So let's get one of our pegs, we're going to go ahead and
put some blue Loctite on the threads. Once I get it positioned
then we're gonna torque it to 29 foot-pounds. Just take a peek and see if we
got it level. I'm using the Driven TT Racing is my level point. That's it. Let's
do it again. Now the cool part with these-- the reason
they do this-- well, depending on how big your foot is and what angle you like to
engage with the shifter and/or brake? That's why they have all these
adjustment points. Really nice setup that they came up with. Yep, that's it. Let's go
ahead and remove this cotter pin and get this ready to attach to our new shift
arm. You could probably do this on the bike. I prefer just to remove the whole
thing and work at it with it pointing toward me. Now we're going to set this up
in the standard shift or regular shift configuration where it's attached at
this point at the bottom. That's what we're after. If you wanted a reverse
shift pattern. I don't know why you would, but you can actually move it over to up
here and it'll actually shift in reverse of what you're used to. To each their own.
I'm gonna go with the standard on this. The one thing you need to make sure of
is the distance here. If you're going to do standard, this needs to be
2.6 inches. If you're going to move it up to the reverse, it needs to be extended
out to two point eight. So two point six inches it's actually 66 millimeters, and
that's from the center of the eyes. So let's check and see where it is. And hey,
if we get it up there and it's just a little too high or too low? Break these
loose and adjust it where it feels right for you. So now on this side, the two
spacers that we're going to use is out of the larger diameter. It's the thinner
one, and the thinner one for the smaller diameter and they're actually going to
go here and here. Let's go ahead and get our swing arm bolt and just let this
guide it through. You have to jiggle it around to get line back up. Now take one
of the M8 bolts. We can get a little bit of blue Loctite on it.
Don't forget your spacer. Go ahead and put our bolt back in on the shift shaft.
Now a bolt through the turnbuckle, and this spacer now through the shaft and
bolt on the other side. With Loctite. Very important. That's a little bit on
the aggressive side as far as down. If you need to bring it in closer,
break those loose and then bring it in. But I kind of like that angle so I think
I'm gonna leave it in that position. So we've got this side pretty much ready
to go, let's head over to the other side and start getting it put together. The
first thing we want to do on this side is go ahead and get the master cylinder
reattached to this point. Let's start by getting this clevis pin in. With the
clevis pin in, go and bring up your bracket. Don't forget to add in this
bracket because it acts as a spacer as well as an attachment point for the
exhaust system. Get our nut on. Just do it hand tight for right now. Go ahead and
put our cotter pin through.
Let's go ahead and get those two tightened down. Now let's bring it around
with our spacers. Loctite on the bottom one. Don't have to put it on the
top because it has a locking type nut that goes on it. So now we need to torque
this main bolt to 54 foot-pounds.
Hopefully if I do this smooth enough that ratchet will stay on on the other
side. There we go. A little Loctite on the bolt for the exhaust. I'm just going
to reuse the factory bolt. Now keep in mind we're going to be replacing this later,
but if we were doing the final install you would need to put Loctite on it. So
this actually completes the installation of the kit itself, but I still want the
rear brake light to work. So we're gonna add in this switch. And all it'll do is
just replace this banjo bolt. It's just a twelve millimeter, and once you break
this loose air gets in and you have to bleed it. Otherwise they are not gonna
function properly. You know you can't just pull it apart and put it back
together. It doesn't work that way. Once you open up a system like this you got
to straighten it out. Now before we can actually bleed the system, we have to
gain access to the rear brake master cylinder reservoir. And to do it, it's a
little bit invasive. You actually have to unbolt the rear tail section, swing it up
out of the way, and there are several bolts and a couple of different plastic
rivets that you have to remove to get the front shroud off. Now, with all these
panels off we can actually bleed it. But before we can even do that, we have to move
the reservoir temporarily to right here. Now you can access both of those screws
to get the reservoir cap off. What we're doing now is just bleeding
the breaks, pumping it up. I'm opening up the valve and then pushing it through,
and shortly it should push that air all the way through the hose and then out
through this bleeding valve. Don't let it fall below otherwise you're just gonna
induce air up here, and you pretty much have to start all over again.
Yeah there's no way to do this without accessing this. It's just too much has
to be forced through to get the air through. Pump, set our level. That's actually
right at it. So I think we're done. Now we can go in and get our cap back on. Remove that bolt.
Since we're right here that connection for the switch, let's go ahead and make it.
There's our connection point. That will be tough to do without removing all this.
Ground to black, green to green. Now get our reservoir back in place. Alright guys,
that pretty much wraps this one up. Only thing I have to do now is just reinstall
all these panels. Listen, if you'd like to purchase the parts that we use to do
this, why don't you check the link in the description below. It'll carry you to a
shopping cart where it's already set up and ready to go. And hey, if the contest
is still active, it will also be a link there that will carry you to a landing
page where you can enter to win. Listen we just want to say thank you for
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thank you and have a great day.