My name is Constantine Tumbinsky and here it is a fork upgrade for Triumph Bonnevile
The bike’s owner is not satisfied with its braking effectiveness
The braking effectiveness is mostly affected by either a fork’s capacity to press a wheel down an asphalt consistently
and a tire’s grip rather then a braking system capacity itself.
The front brake upgrade makes sense only along with changing a standard damper fork to a progressive cartridge fork with quick and slow compression and rebound
Otherwise, powerful brake would swing the fork and can block the front wheel
Bitubo have a comparatively cost-moderate solution in the form of adjustable cartridges for a standard Triumph fork
ne cartridge works for rebound, the other — for compression,
both of them have a spring preload regulator
Using the kit of spacers, the fork can be shortened for different wheel diameters
he premium quality cartridges are provided assembled, under pressure
I am going to use a premium professional fork oil Pakelo of 10W viscosity level,
which is made in Italy as in the case with Bitubo cartridges
More information on the Bonnevile brakes’ upgrade you can read in the article on stuntexclub.ru
Removing the fork, keep in mind to loosen the top triangle clamp first and only then to loosen the inner tube’s end cap in order not to vise the outer tube
o unscrew the bottom end bolt, you should use a nut driver directly on the motorcycle
Without having a nut driver, I use a wrench tool considering that the bolt could possibly spin together with a damper
On one inner tube everything goes OK, on the other the damper spins over.
It’s nasty but I have a solution
First, it is necessary to drain an oil from the inner tube and clean up the damper
Afterwards, hammer the wooden stick into the damper tube for a secure damper fixation
This is the most reliable way to unscrew the bolt without any damage
Furthermore, it is necessary to take out all the inner parts and clean the inner tube fairly from the inside
As you can see, the standard fork is equipped with the primitive damper without a piston or a spring
This cap with a preload regulator is not an original one
From all the original parts we require only the bolt and the additional spring
he rebound cartridge is installed in the right inner tube
First, put on the spring and afterwards screw the bold toward the outer tube
I recommend tightening the cap in advance in order to compress the spring and press down the damper
This allows tightening the bolt reliably with 30 Nm torque and avoiding the damper spinning
Pakelo oil is completely synthetic with a high viscosity grade, which guarantees the sustainable operation in a wide variety of temperatures
It contains anti-frictional additives substantially prolonging the service life of the parts undergoing friction
For the expensive Italian fork it is particularly important
I haven’t changed the fork’s length, therefore I apply 200 ml of oil in each inner tube
After filling in the oil, it is necessary to tighten the cap manually and install a dust rubber if available
By default, the cartridges have standard settings
They can be changed easily using a key head or a hex tool
The left inner tube, installed with a compression cartridge, is assembled similarly
The fork’s installation should be proceeded in the reverse sequence
The inner tube is fixed in the standard position flush with a triple tree
Tighten triple clamp bolts with 27MN torque
Before tightening the top triple clamp, it is necessary to tighten the cartridge’s cap; this may require to remove a handlebar if you don’t have a special flat tool
In the upcoming video we are going to cover the installation of a floating brake rotor of the increased diameter and a six-piston caliper
Hard cruiser tires we will change for the better grip city ones
All the range of Bitubo and Pakelo products you can purchase in our stantexshop.ru Follow us if the information was useful.