Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
Ceramic or radiant stoves hide their heating elements under a smooth glass surface.
If one of the burners is not heating up, then it could be a faulty element,
damaged wires, or a faulty switch.
Each component can be easily tested for continuity with a multimeter.
A continuity test will determine if there's a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
Without continuity the burner will not heat up.
In this episode first we'll learn how it all works,
then we'll test the heat switch and the surface element through the back.
Finally we'll access and test the element directly.
Let's get started.
Electric stoves are pretty simple at a base level.
When electricity passes through the heating element,
the resistance in the material generates heat.
Each burner is on a separate circuit, and is controlled by an infinite heat switch.
When you turn the dial the switch closes, letting 120 volts
travel through both sides of the element.
This provides the necessary 240 volts.
One side of the switch will remain closed, which will power the cooktop indicator light.
The other side of the switch will open and disconnect power once the element heats up.
It will cycle on and off to maintain the set level of heat.
Over time the contacts can warp or might not close
properly, preventing power from reaching the element.
Alternatively if the coil burns out or if the limiter is faulty, then the element won't work.
Some ceramic stoves have dual and triple ring heating elements.
These work in the same way but will have an extra set of terminals for each additional coil.
We'll show you how to test these as well.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, gloves, and a multimeter.
If you need a new surface element or switch
then you can enter your model number on the AMRE Supply website.
From there you'll see a parts breakdown with the exact replacement parts listed for your model.
Always be safe and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges, it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
On the back of the oven is a cover panel.
Some models have a small panel near the top and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks, simply lift up to remove the panel.
First we'll test a switch for a standard surface element,
then we'll test a switch for a dual ring element.
To remember where each wire goes, it's best to take a picture for reference.
Some models have individual wires,
while other models group multiple wires with a hard plastic connector.
Now disconnect the wires.
On the switch you should see a few terminals
marked L for line H for heater and P for an indicator light.
Reach to the front and turn the dial to the maximum heat setting.
Set the multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Now check for continuity between the L1 and H1 terminals.
The multimeter should display a reading between 0 and 1 ohm.
Then check from L2 to H2 if there is no reading and no continuity in either test,
then the switch is faulty and will need to be replaced.
If you're testing a switch for a dual ring element, then the terminals will be different.
If you see an extra H1 terminal, then test for continuity between L1 and H1A, then L1 and H1B.
Now test between L2 and H2.
On some models the power terminals are labeled P1 and P2.
The heating circuit terminals are 2, 4 and 4A.
In this case you'll test between P2 and 4 and then P2 and 4A.
Finally test between P1 and 2.
If there is no continuity across any of the pairings, then the switch has failed
and will need to be replaced.
If the switch passed all the tests, then move on to the element testing.
From the back we can test the wires and the surface element together.
Find the wires that were plugged into the H1 and H2 terminals.
Now test for continuity.
For dual ring elements, test the wires that were connected to H2 and H1A,
then test H2 and H1B.
In some models you'll be testing the wires from terminals 2 and 4 then 2 and 4A.
If the element has continuity and the switch is good, then it could be just an issue with
one of the connections, so make sure that the wires are secure when you reconnect the switch.
Now if there's no continuity then it's best to isolate and test the element directly.
To access and test the element, you'll have to lift up the cooktop.
First open the oven door and remove the mounting screws.
Now lift up and use a piece of wood or a sturdy object to prop it open.
Unscrew the mounting brackets and lower the heating elements.
Now remove the cooktop.
In some models the elements are mounted on a metal plate.
In this case you should be able to disconnect the wires to remove the whole top.
Now unscrew the mounting plate to access the elements.
First take a picture of the wires for reference.
Now disconnect the wires to isolate the element.
You can test the element in place, but to make it easy we'll be testing on the bench.
In the heating circuit you'll see two terminals for the coil,
with one terminal fused to the limiter.
The high limit switch will shut off the element if it overheats,
it's connected to the larger terminals marked 1A and 2A.
The switch is normally closed and will have continuity at room temperature.
The indicator switch is connected to the two smaller terminals marked 1B and 2B.
When the element heats up past 150 degrees Fahrenheit, the switch will close
turning on the hot surface light.
This switch is normally open and will not have continuity at room temperature,
so we won't be testing it here.
The indicator switch and limit switch terminals can be in either orientation.
So make sure to check the terminal names before testing.
Check for continuity between 2A and the free terminal.
This will test the limit switch and element together.
In a dual ring element you'll have to test between 2A and each of the free terminals.
In some dual elements there will be an extra terminal.
The thicker coil is connected to the limiter and one free terminal,
while the thinner coil is connected to the other free terminals.
This means each coil will have to be tested separately.
In any case you should get a resistance reading between 20 and 80 ohms.
If there is no continuity or if the resistance is far outside of that range,
then you should replace the surface element.
You can see how to do this in more detail in the video link below.
If needed, reconnect the wires to the element,
align the tabs of the cooktop into the slots on the back.
Now prop it open.
Next align the elements and mounting brackets to the underside of the glass,
and replace the screws.
Now lower the cooktop and tighten the screws.
Align the back panel and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord, and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your stove.
For more troubleshooting videos on water heaters,
furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.