Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to replace a front wheel bearing on our 2015 Polaris
RZR900S.
Really not that tough to do, just need to get it lifted up, get that front right tire
off, and I'll show you how to get it done.
So let's go.
Alright guys, this is going to be a skill level two.
Now as far as the tools you're going to need, well, it's a little bit more than we usually
have to deal with here so let's go through it.
On the socket side, you need a 15, an 18, a 27, and then this 19mm deep well.
As usual, a decent 3/8th ratchet, 15mm wrench, punch tool, a couple of different hammers.
Make sure one of them is a dead blow.
On the torque wrench side, you need one that at least goes to 180 foot-pounds.
going to be very important there.
A breaker bar so you're not damaging your torque wrenches, especially when you're taking
off those wheel lug nuts.
On the pliers side, a set of side cutters, regular needle nose, and most importantly
this little guy, one to remove the circlip.
Alright, now here's where you're going to have to get creative.
You're going to need to borrow or go buy a bearing driver set because there's a couple
of different diameters that you need to deal with.
Beyond that you're going to need to pick up a cup of some type that you can actually drive
the bearing into.
Alright, as far as the parts go, if you would reference our exploded parts diagrams.
That'll give you a very clear picture how all of this is going to come apart and more
importantly how it's going to go all back together.
So, once you've got all your tools and your parts together, and those parts diagrams may
be printed out so you can reference them, we can go over to the machine and I can show
you how to get it done.
Alright guys, let's start off by getting this cotter pin out of the way, and before we start
taking all this other apart, getting the caliper and everything else out of the way, we want
to use the braking system to hold this still so we can take off this castle nut.
So I'm going to have somebody hop up inside, hold the brakes, that way I can break it loose,
cause there's a lot of torque on it.
Alright, next let's go ahead and pull the bracket with the entire caliper assembly off.
So that's going to be a 15mm.
Now once we get this caliper assembly off, you want to get a zip tie and just hold it
up here because I don't want it dangling by the brake line.
And one of the symptoms of a bad bearing of course you can hear the noise that it would
make.
Almost like a growling sound.
the second is if you know-- I'm just going to let it hang there for a second-- if you
know that your ball joints are in good shape, and you can still move this around, chances
are you've got a problem in there.
Now granted I already took of the castle nut, that's why it seems a little loose.
But trust me, if you still have the castle nut on there and can move it around like that?
You've got an issue.
So, let's keep going.
Alright, next, let's go ahead and get that steering arm off of there, and that's held
on by an 18mm.
What we're going to do is bring it down toward the edge of the thread, and then I'm going
to get a soft-blow hammer, go ahead and pop it up to release it out of that joint.
Oh, I won't have to, it's already released.
Making it easy for me today.
Actually I popped it a little too soon.
It's actually spinning inside the boot.
The problem solver-- 500 dollar Snap-On impact.
That ought to do it.
Alright, next, let's get those upper and lower control arm pinch bolts out.
Alright, upper.
Get the lower out, and she should pull right out.
Now, let's see if she'll separate from the hub.
Yeah.
Alright, now, let's head over to that other bench, get this cleaned up a little bit, and
then we'll pull out the circlip and press it out.
The exciting part of powersports maintenance and repair.
Alright, that's reasonably clean, we'll do a little more cleaning in a minute, and what
we're after is just to get this big circlip out of the way.
Now when you're doing this you're going to want to get a new circlip to go in place.
And hopefully you have a pair of these nearby.
All we're going to be doing is putting this down in there and then pulling it in and then
lifting it out.
That's all we've got to do.
When they've been in there for a long time and they're kind of encrusted in place, they
may have to be jarred loose a little bit.
What I'm going to do is use a hammer and just a punch tool and I'm going to first knock
it this direction and then go back and knock it the other direction.
That should free it up all the way around.
Now let's see if she'll come up out of there.
Voila.
Now, I'm gonna use the press to push this out.
What I've got over here is just-- it's actually a wheel bearing puller and installer kit.
It's got a bunch of different what they call cups to where we can push it out.
It gives us a surface to push it out into.
So what we need to do is find one that's a bigger diameter than the bearing but small
enough to get in there.
So, that's going to be our winner.
So, we're going to set it in here like this, then I'm going to use a bearing driver set
that fits on the inside of the hub and we're going to push that bearing out.
Always a satisfying sound when it pops loose.
Now that our hub is completely free, let's go ahead and get some contact cleaner and
get all this surface cleaned up because I want it to go back in smoothly.
And what we need to do next is grab some Loctite 603 and then when want to coat this knuckle
surface where the bearing is going to be going in.
Now this is important.
We used this particular driver to push it out because it fit on the inside.
But we don't want to use the same one to push it back in, we want to use one that's a little
bit bigger and goes to the outside edge, because what we don't want to do is press on the innner
race.
We want to push on the outside.
Very important, otherwise you're going to damage the actual roller bearings inside there.
There it is.
Alright, looking good.
It's all the way flush down.
Let's go ahead and get the new circlip in.
Guide it down into that groove and release.
Alright, let's go get it back together.
Alright, since you can tell I've already got some of my anti-seize on the end of the splines
but what I do want to add is a little bit more on the inside of the bearing when I get
ready to put the spindle into the hub.
Those two things make it a little easier to put together right now, but more importantly
if you ever have to go back in it makes it possible for it to come apart, because if
all this gets run in the mud and in water and rust, it will be tough to pull back apart.
I'll leave it at that.
So, go ahead and just temporarily pass it through the center of the hub.
And what we're going to do, put our bolts in but just hand tight, we're not going to
tighten down those yet.
Leave some of the threads open right here, because Polaris actually wants you to replace
these bolts every time you pull it apart.
I think that's a little excessive.
All they're doing is shipping you bolts that already have Loctite applied to them.
Well, we're just going to add some new Loctite on it and torque them back down.
Let's go ahead and get our hub lined back on the splines and get it back on.
Don't forget both of your washers.
Then you're castle nut.
Now keep in mind I've got everything loose right now.
We'll start to torque everything down once it's basically assembled.
Alright, let's get our steering arm back in.
Let's go back and add in some Loctite on these two pinch bolts.
Go ahead and snug them down, then we'll torque them.
Tell you what, now that I'm sitting here looking at it, I'm going to take the steering arm
back off because by doing so I'll be able to get a torque wrench in there and get a
really accurate torque on this top one.
Otherwise I'd be torquing it from the backside and really would not be that accurate.
And we're going to take both of those to 42 foot-pounds.
There we go.
Now, let's go ahead and get our steering control arm back in.
And we're going to torque it to 30 foot-pounds.
Now, let's go ahead and re-mount our caliper assembly.
Just open up the pads, slide them back over the rotor, grab your bolts, and let's add
a little Loctite to them.
We're going to run them back down just snug and then torque them to 30 foot pounds.
Alright, next, I'm going to get somebody to hop up inside the unit, hold the brakes, and
we've got to torque that castle nut to 180 foot-pounds.
Alright, that is 180 foot pounds but I need to go a little bit further because I've got
to get that cotter pin in there and I don't see an opening in the channel.
This one is really close, but we need to take it just a little bit more.
That should do it.
Let's get this tire remounted and then shoot, we'll be done.
When you're doing these always start them if you're using an impact, which I don't--
start them by hand other wise you run the risk of cross-threading them.
Now we're gonna torque them to 120 foot-pounds.
Now if you had steel wheels, they would only go to 60, but with the aluminum, you need
to go to 120.
Well, guess what guys?
We are done.
Wasn't that bad after all, was it?
Well listen, if you need any of the parts that we used to do this, why don't you come
see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, just leave them in the section below and I'll do
my best to answer them.
Till next time we just want to say thanks for watching.