Hey guys, Andrew Esquivel back with another review.
Today I am going to be reviewing the Yumseen A336 LED Headlight conversion kit.
This headlight conversion kit will convert your halogen headlight in your car to an LED.
I have been reviewing a few of these so far, this is the third one that I have reviewed
thus far.
The specs are as such, each bulb produces 3300 lumens.
Today we're also going to be working with the infamous 9007 headlight socket which is
known for compatibility issues and having problems far beyond just the way it's designed.
It makes conversion kits very difficult.
We'll go over that in a minute for now let's keep on going with the specs.
Each bulb consumes 36 watts and has an estimated lifetime of 30,000 hours.
There is nothing on Amazon's web page about a warranty of any sort.
A lot of good bulbs will either have a one, two or lifetime warranty that comes along
with them.
I didn't see anything involving any of that information on amazon, so it looks you may
only have 30 days to try this out and make sure everything works correctly.
You may have to contact the manufacturer if there's an issue but that might be difficult
because it is made in China.
Let's get on with the actual bulb itself.
One of the things LED headlights have to do in order to simulate the way they throw light
out like a halogen is they have to throw light omnidirectionally, it can't be in any directional
way otherwise it won't throw the beam of the headlight correctly and you will end up with
scattered beams which makes the bulb useless.
What this bulb attempts to do is instead of having any clever proprietary design, they
just went for a simplistic approach where they have three LEDs, two facing one way and
one in the back to try and get 360 degrees of light going around it, to try and simulate
what halogens do.
Does it work?
Well, we'll see in a minute.
Let's continue talking about this conversion kit for a little bit.
As far as the materials go this is by far the beefiest LED I have yet to handle.
The metal is definitely constructed a little more heavily here.
There's a lot more metal to it.
It feels stronger but there is a downside to that.
In order to dissipate heat faster, you want the fins to be thinner and you want to have
a lot of fins.
I know this because I am a computer technician and we deal with sort of thing on a CPU heatsinks
all the time.
Thinner fins mean faster heat dissipation and because they are thicker that's probably
why it's heavier, but it also feels stronger.
It's not going to fall apart easily.
Moving on to the wiring set, this is also an interesting thing.
Every other LED headlights that I have tried out, has had a controller unit between in
between the 9007 plug and the bulb itself.
This one has an integral unit which is probably also why the bulb itself feels a little heavier
and probably why it's shrouded in heavier metal to protect the controller unit that's
integral to the system.
So, I was telling you that the 9007 socket is infamous for having compatibility issues.
Here's why.
Normally when you have a light bulb, you plug the bulb in and the gasket keeps it in place.
Next, you would take the circular retainer lock and put it over the bulb and lock it
in.
That will prevent the bulb from moving and then you plug the wiring harness from your
car into the bulb.
You can't do that in this order because the heat sink doesn't allow you to get the retainer
lock all the way up to where the gasket it.
Have no fear.
Pretty much every LED headlight that uses a fan system and not a passive cooling technique
has already thought of this issue.
And most of them have the gasket turned to the side, unlocks it and you can slide it
up.
But here's another problem with this.
Granted this is a design for 9007 sockets, you got to be careful because every 9007 retainer
lock is not made the same.
In my case, we have been working with the Mitsubishi outlander made in 2003.
If you'll notice there are little ridges on this retainer lock and all three of these
little pieces is raised up by a few millimeters.
Those few millimeters make a huge problem.
Because if you put the retainer lock on the way you would imagine it would go and then
try to get the gasket back on, you can't.
That's a problem.
We take this off.
Those ridges are making the retainer lock sit up higher than it should and because it's
sitting up higher than it should, the little grooves inside of the gasket right here can't
slide under this metal piece where it would slide over and then twist and lock in place.
The 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander 9007 circular retainer lock has these big grooves that are
only a few millimeters tall that prevent you from using the entire lock socket in the first
place which means this light socket is no longer considered plug-and-play for the Mitsubishi
Outlander.
I will give this brand this, all the other brands that I have worked with have always
said it is plug-and-play, no issues.
This one said, this is mostly plug-and-play and in some cars, you will have to do modifications.
At least they stated that in the description on amazon and for that I will not dock them
points because they said exactly what we're going to have to do.
What we have done is we've taken one of the retainer locks and I have filed them down
so that those ridges are no longer there.
Believe it or not, those two one or so millimeters makes a huge difference.
I am trying to get this focus back on here again.
Here we go.
Put it in and although it's a little light, you can indeed lock it.
I am holding it by the gasket.
Only by the retainer lock.
So now locked in place.
The modification is simple enough to do.
All you need to do is file it down in whichever manner you see fit.
Make sure you don't file it down too far otherwise you'll end up not having a little tab.
And that little tab does hold it in place.
Now that we've got the modified retainer lock, let's go ahead and put it in the car and see
how well it performs.
All right.
We are at my 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander LS and right there is where the light bulb goes
in.
Now we have to line up the little notches to make sure everything get's put in properly.
This may take a little finagling because sometimes the retainer lock can be a little tricky.
Okay, so after just a little bit of finagling I have the gasket in place and the circular
retainer lock in place.
So, everything is good to go.
It is really in there.
It ain't going to move or do nothing.
The nice thing about this system is because the controller is integral, we don't have
wires going everywhere like we did with all the other LED units.
So there's no zip tying that you got to worry about.
You just plug it in, turn it on and just let it do its thing.
Speaking of let's go ahead and turn it on and see the pattern that it throws out.
This is the beam that we are getting from the lights.
Thankfully the lights are not scattered like on the lower end units.
There's a lot of units in this price range that just don't have a design that can properly
diffuse lights.
That being said, I will say this.
It's not entirely diffused.
I would have to say it's slightly patchy based on my real world view of thing and that's
not so bad.
Patchy is livable but not what you should expect for your money.
Let's go ahead and see it from the vehicle and see what it actually looks like from the
driver's seat.
So this is what the lights look like from the driver's seat and at first, it doesn't
look half bad.
In fact the usable distance of light that we have from here is probably about 45 feet
and then after that it starts to taper off and get dimmer and dimmer as we go down which
is to be expected.
Because in the United States headlights are pointed at a downward angle so that way we
don't blind the person in front of you.
When you turn your high beams on like this that angle no longer applies and it will beam
straight ahead which if I'd say you've got to drive with your high beams on.
Lets go back to lower beams and talk about something here, let me adjust this.
This is about as good when I get for adjustment here.
One of the things that I'm seeing is although the light is definitely not scattered, which
is very good, too many lights have scattered beams.
What I do notice is a slight patchiness and what that means even though we have light
in all the critical areas in front of us, there are certain parts of the portion in
front of us where light is a little dimmer than others straight down the path in front.
On the camera you might not be seeing it as well as I am from right here, but there's
definitely some spots to the left of the vehicle where it's bright and then a little dark and
then bright again.
I suspect this is because of the design of the bulb.
As you saw they didn't have any clever designs that were proprietary to their bulb to make
it defuse light properly for 360 degrees.
What they did try to do is have lights all around the bulb to make up for that and throw
light in as many directions as it could to try and equal the amount of light that comes
up all around from a halogen.
The problem with their design is they only met it about half way.
They had two bulbs that were at a 90 degree angle, I'm sorry diodes, they had two diodes
that were at a 90 degree angle of each other, and then the last one just skipped that.
It didn't do another 90 degree and then a 90 degree.
We had three bulbs and it's a triangular design and I feel that triangular design is ultimately
what's causing this downfall.
It is not super properly diffused because of that.
That's ultimately why we have slightly patchy spots of light.
Now is this light usable?
Yes, I would say it is usable if you're looking for a bulb in this price range this one's
not half bad.
I have reviewed other white bulbs that use proprietary designs to diffuse light properly
and I like those ones better.
The only problem with those ones is there's a controller issue on that one.
But on this one, everything works as expected except for the little bit of patchiness.
The throw distance is not bad, it's usable.
We turn out high beams, it doesn't particularly throw the beam directly down-range that you
would be expecting.
It does widen the beam arc though, you can see more to the left and to the right and
it is a little brighter directly in front of you.
For all intents of purposes, yes, this bulb does work and it's not great but I would consider
it adequate for it to be safely used if you want to switch to something that will give
the road a higher contrast.
But as far as good usable diffused light goes, the halogen light bulb is still king.
Until we come up with the design that I can test that is able to throw light truly in
all 360 degrees around the bulb, halogens still seem to have the best diffused light.
More diffused light means more usable light.
It doesn't matter if the light bulbs throw a 10000 lumens, if the light is scattered
or patchy it makes it dangerous and inoperable really.
But I would say that this is a contender.
It's not the best, the design could be better, but it's one to consider in this price range.
Keep in mind the $50 price range is still an entry to medium level bulb, so entry to
intermediate.
The high end bulbs are going to run you more than a $100.
For this price class I would say it's a possibility to try out.
If you have Amazon Prime like I do you could try out the bulb and if it doesn't work good
for you, you can always send it back.
But that's pretty much all you need to know from these things guys.
Thanks for watching.
Don't forget to comment, rate, subscribe, show your friends, check out my other videos
they got plenty of them.
As always I'll see you next time, drive safe and have a good night.