good morning youtube i wanted to give you an update on the recent change that i did when i
moved the axle back here and so i basically moved it back roughly one axle diameter 10
millimeter axles and that's been a really great thing so number one with the slightly longer
wheelbase or chainstay length the front wheel stays planted a lot easier going up
really steep hills so i'm talking about ramps that are well over 30 percent so when you're in that
low a gear it's real easy to pull the front wheel off the ground now it still will come up but you
don't have to get as far forward and be in quite as uncomfortable a position but there's something
else that actually was a really unexpected benefit of that this is a nine speed mountain bike
rear derailleur it's only rated for 34 tooth and i'm running 45 teeth so i've added this wolf tooth
road link adapter here which lowers the attachment point down here to get you a little more room
and i've got the b tension screw here turned in about as far as it can go so the biggest advantage
that i found with moving the axle back here you can see here's the center line of the axle
here's the center line of that jockey pulley on the rear derailleur and you can see now there's
a gap here and what that's given me is clearance between the cog and the jockey pulley so in effect
moving the axle back is like adjusting the b tension screw but i can't adjust the b tension
screw anymore you can see the pogs are starting to go up because you're now a few teeth farther
forward and that gives you that little bit of gap there and i haven't had any chain skipping at all
now that i've done that before on really steep grades when you were really pedaling hard on
on this lower gear it would jump it felt like the rear derailleur was shifting and i tried
adjusting the barrel adjusters up front and i tried b tension screw and the limit screws
yeah so the other thing i did at the same time that i moved the axle back is i finally decided
to re-index this rear derailleur i installed this when i built the bike about eight and a half years
ago and at the time i had a 130 millimeter rear hub and a an 11 36 shimano cassette and then i had
added the longer b tension screw over the years i went from the 130 to a 135 rear hub and then i had
to do a little bit of adjustment i think i changed the high and low limit screws a little bit that
made it work again and then i went to the 1142 cassette again had to make a few adjustments and
at that point the shifting was still pretty good but there was a little bit of skipping here in
that lowest gear it was very unrepeatable it might only happen once a month and then when i went to
the 1145 the ghost shifting problem got worse to where it was very repeatable and so i tried
adjusting things barrel adjuster and and then i finally decided you know i really need to just
go back to ground zero i'll put a link to calvin's video from the park tool channel he has a really
good video on setting up rear derailleurs thing you need to realize if you're running a rapid rise
rear derailleur or they call it a low normal i think is the other word they'll call this
so the spring in here pulls the jockey pulley over to the big cog and then the cable pulls it over to
the small cog so if you watch calvin's video you need to completely reverse all the things when
he talks about small cog and big cog and chain rings and and you have to reverse the high and low
limit screws you do the low limit first you shift all the way to the big cause small chain ring up
front cable loose set the low limit screw and then set up the high limit in the big ring up front
and then you also set up the indexing and once i went back and did all of that from scratch as well
as moving the axle back that's completely cured all the shifting issues i have this thing shifts
as good with the 1145 as it did with the 1136 probably makes sense if you're going to a much
bigger cassette to just go back start from scratch and re-index everything i really like this the top
end of this cassette is good on the road and the bottom end or the big end is good off the road yes
anyway really liking this setup with the 1145 i changed out the disc caliper pads and found
they were wearing funny then i finally got to the the right adapter on the disc brake caliper and
got that sorted out so i could move the caliper back to get it properly lined up with the rotor
and then doing that allowed me to slide this back which then allowed me to fix the shifting and also
prompted me to re-index the rear derailleur and now the whole thing just works really well the
rear brakes are just awesome the shifting here is awesome starting out to fix one problem i've
cured a whole bunch of other issues so yeah in hindsight i should have re-indexed all this thing
at the beginning but it was one of those things that seemed to work okay most of the time and
it was really hard to duplicate the problem and then when i finally changed to the 1145
the shifting problem up here and it was actually even in second gear sometimes even in the third
ring the 32 it was having trouble this is like the first bike i've had that has this horizontal drop
out and it has disc brakes and it has index shifting so trying to get all of those things
working all together is a bit of a challenge and you just have to learn what you need to do
to make that work you know now i appreciate that all of this stuff back here is all interrelated
according to the manufacturer they spec the bike assuming you have the axle clear at the front of
this slot 425 millimeter chainstay length and i'm running it back here at about 45 i'm pushing the
chain stay length way back probably not intended to do that this derailleur is specked at 34 teeth
maximum i'm running 45 i think even with the road link i think they say 40 tooth max and i'm again
at 45 the long arm derailleur i think is expected 45 tooth maximum cog difference and
i'm running 58. it does take a little bit of bike handling skill to be able to ride at two or two
and a half miles an hour you know ride at walking pace and maintain your balance and pick your line
around the rocks and the gravel and whatnot on the trail so yeah it does take a little bit of skill
a lot of people claim oh you can't ride that slow well you can you just have to practice
at it i like having that option that i can drop into a super low gear and all the same speed as
foot traffic yes overall really happy with the setup glad i went through all that
work i guess i should have done it earlier and avoided all the headaches it caused i've now
fixed all the problems and i think it's working very well yeah if you have any questions about
the setup go ahead and post up in the comment section below and i'll put some of my other
cycling videos over here on the left side and as always thanks for watching