all right folks what's going on we're out in the shop today waiting on uncle ted he's going to help
us repair the trim on our quarter windows on this 2004 comp orange gt now if you're in the same boat
as we are we're restoring the car we wanted to make it look better if you want to do the same
we're going to show you some very simple tips on what you can do to potentially repair your trim
on the quarter window okay now not every quarter window can be saved if it's too far gone you're
gonna have to use your best judgment to whether or not these can be fixed these can be restored okay
if the pitting is severe you're just gonna have to take them off the car go to the junkyard
and get you another set but for the sake of our car we're starting to develop just some
light pitting this can be sanded down we can throw some high build primer on there get it sanded down
clean it and then shoot it in trim black so that's what the topic today is we're going to show you
guys the quick and easy steps on what you need to do to repair your quarter windows in your 94 to 04
mustang it could be the spring puppet number all right so i finally got uncle ted out of his hole
uh let's get serious ted what do we got to do first we're repairing our quarter windows and
our o4 gt here while they're in the car they can do this with them out of the car if they're
doing like some crazy restoration or for the sake of what we're doing we have them left
in the car well first of all it's preparation it's all about preparation as you can see you
can check the damage to see if you need filler or whether you can just sand it out so for the
sake of what we have here what we're working with this can be fixed oh yeah cool what do we need
to do first get some masking tape probably put against the edge for our preparation for sanding
and also prep it with some solvent maybe some mild solvent like an alcohol or something like
that rubbing alcohol would be fine denatured alcohol as you would say all right let's do it
using a little bit of denatured alcohol which is inexpensive you can buy smaller jugs of it but all
right so step one we're giving it a thorough wipe down yeah they could use like an automotive grade
prep spray yeah or something just a mild solvent of any kind would work as long as it removes the
wax and grease and like armor all and such prep you know alright uncle ted uh what do we got here
this is your first step in sanding yes we're going to be prepping sanding the use the rough surface
okay what grid are we working with we're starting with 220 grit okay this is wet or dry which you
could use it either way you could wet sand it actually still cut it pretty good it's rough
enough to cut fast and getting the imperfections out if you use a real real fine grit paper it'll
take you a lot longer in the surface and possibly more you know tribulation gotcha now is this a
condition by condition basis on where you would start in terms of what grit you're
using yeah like if somebody's wasn't as severe as ours which ours really isn't severe in this
case but if somebody's wasn't as bad as ours they could maybe start with like 400 grit
yeah or something like that okay yeah yeah first we'll we'll need to mask you don't you definitely
don't want to sand it just freehand yeah that's the last thing you want to do is scratch glass
yes and sandpaper really is not is it non-friendly to glass of course you don't want to scratch the
paint either yeah but usually some consecutive overlapping masking tape to bring it back you
want plenty of distance if you just put one piece of paper on there odds are you're still going to
scratch it back here with a little piece of your overlap you really have to watch the overlap and
so all we're doing right now we're just creating us a good barrier for our sandpaper we're not matt
we're not masking any of the car off yet because we're not shooting primer we're not shooting our
trim black paint yet correct that's right so you can re-mask it but sometimes if you get it if
it's good you know you can leave it on there and use it and the final you know preparation here's
an extra step i'm gonna be sure to protect the paint give it a little extra covering for that
overlapping quarter panel even it doesn't really hurt to overkill on the masking tape
all right so we're going to take our 220 and uh what's that what's the trick here as flat as
possible don't apply a lot of pressure yeah don't fly a lot of pressure and just evenly sand it
surface and you can use a little cross strokes or cross what they call a cross hatch and sand the
whole entire surface don't just stand once the damaged area that way you get a kind of an even
cut right through 20 is putting in work yeah it already immediately touched the surface as you can
see it's bringing it off you want to do your edges also because a lot of times the edge will have a
little bit may have a little damage in there too and you want to adhere you want adhesion on your
paint coats the final got you and see you guys that's why it's important to mask this far back
or as far back as you want you know as you can see how close i'm getting to the glass
yeah just from standing alone same with the panel that's like having insurance on your car or not
lol
it's not just a little insurance on a freshly painted car there you go so basically with the
220 grit you're going to go until all of this pitting is level yeah you'll sand until you
feel that it's still smooth at with that grade level of paint if not you may need to use a
little tiny bit of filler of some sort the type of filler you'd use is like a two-part glazing putty
gotcha and just fill those imperfections and fill this kitty fill the pitting only itself and then
sand it you know thoroughly but you probably wouldn't have to fill in much because it's
just tiny tiny particles but typically if it's not too bad with the right amount of sanding and
preparation you'll be able to just sand it and prime it possibly
and paint it and you can come back occasionally and hit it with your prep solvent again
also reevaluate your surface yeah clean off any sanding particle build-up residue absolutely and
you can re-up like you said re-evaluate how much you've sanded so far all right well folks we're
gonna let ted go at this 220. once we feel like we made some headway we'll put the camera back up and
show you guys the progress okay so we've gone our first round of 220 we're doing a thorough wipe now
with our denatured alcohol or our prep solvent and what we're going to do we're going to inspect
what surface looks like now we found a small chip here which we may need to sand a little bit
more so what we'll do we'll sand it some more and we'll be prepping for the primer and what did you
tell me off camera about overdoing an area don't over sand that area if you send that little spot
a tip or a spot out you want to sand the area around it also it's not too much but enough to
even it out so you don't focus directly upon that one spot to promote adhesion you'll want to sand
the little spot or two that you don't have sanded you want it all flat you'll know your surface is
done whenever you have it all flat guys it's like you told them before just because the area
isn't damaged you still want to sand it to promote adhesion yes for your surface which is paint and
primer and such you'll have a little pitting but you'll know you'll fill it with primer preparation
you'll use your masking paper some paper here but newspaper dropped off really anything suitable
for painting would work right yeah do i don't even know if anybody gets the newspaper anymore
lmao
no i would say probably not but you can purchase craft paper at any store practically even at the
dollar store i think even cares and now you don't have to mask the whole car right you just gotta
mask just the general area yeah i would say two to three feet area around the place that you're
painting okay and this is automotive gray tape uh actually this right here is just actually
housed that masking tape but what's against the paint surface is automotive great okay
but you know an automotive grade is is key because you're saying that the
it's recommended because the primer or the top coat or paint would bleed through yeah
that paint yeah or that tape regular masking tape it will bleed through but automotive grade is made
for solvents and such resist solvents all right we'll let uncle ted finish taping and masking
all this off and we'll get you guys back in the mix all right so we got everything masked off
like uncle ted said you don't have to go crazy you don't have to mask the whole car uh just
you know two three feet past where you're working obviously well lit well ventilated
area you'll want to do another white with the prep solvent to free any glass sanding debris dust etc
and then we're going to shoot this with some primer ted is it a specific primer we're about
to shoot here not necessarily just a lacquer base um aerosol automotive grade automotive grade and
filler primer always shake it up real good and test on the side don't spray your the first
pattern you spray you don't spray directly on your on your work get your primer started make sure you
got it done coming out of the can correctly good just shake it shake it if you think you hadn't
shake it up enough shaking it enough shake it some more okay now here goes the primer
now the objective here this is light coats we're not laying this on right yeah you apply
just light coats and of course the light coats that's allowing the primer to settle in the
coarse areas and fill them yes and allow also the solvents to bleed from the primer
you get your first good coats of primer on you want to let it dry allow it to about five to ten
minutes depending on your temperature yeah because relative humidity all that plays a
major improvement into drying time so of course climates are different everywhere
so there's really no clear-cut answer as to how long something will take
to dry okay so that's coat one we'll come back probably what do you say five minutes
yeah give her 10 minutes and give her take and we'll come back and apply another cup all right
so five minutes have passed and we're gonna throw on our second coat of filler primer this time you
can get a little more aggressive with your next coats as as you feel it because you've already
kind of started the tooth you know from the first mild coats okay and then same flash time right and
all that about five minutes man what's on your shirt what is that that is a car that's
sitting in my garage right now waiting for me to come home to her this weekend
all right so third coat and you can apply this third coat with i mean because you know you've
already got a good base going got you so first two little first two lights yeah light coats and
then now our third one a little heavier get you guys with some light on and you can see
that it is substantially more wet yes and starting previously
yes yes the surface is starting to smooth out a little bit now how many coats do we
need to go before we have to sand this again i guess it's really depending on the the severity
of your damage depending on the severity of the damage you may want to apply a couple more coats
so we'll probably do one or two more yes and then we'll put some sanding on it again
okay well we'll let this flash and come back for coat four i'm gonna be a little wet as well yes
there you go all right coat four dance laying that's laying down nice it's hard to probably
tell on camera here but of course we still have our little slight divot there that is
still present there's still some but most of this should stand down like uncle ted's saying we'll be
good to go so another five to ten minutes let this flash and we'll come back so you're gonna go we're
gonna go five coats yeah here we are again fifth coat again shaking your can of primer really good
the same way you apply a good wet coat all right we're gonna wait about 30 minutes fifth coat and
we'll come back we'll inspect it and if it's dry enough uh what'd you say for ted we're gonna hit
it this was a 400 grit starting we'll start with a little 400 grit which is a less aggressive
cut than the 220 we were using first once we do our 400 we'll of course inspect that if we have
to shoot a couple more coats of primer we can well we'll catch you guys back in 30 minutes it'll be
real quick okay so our fifth coat we actually went ahead and let it go for about an hour so
what's next uncle ted looks like you got a spray bottle with some water uh what grit sandpaper is
that this is 400 400 wet now you don't have to saturate it lightly for lubrication and your
looks like you're hardly putting any pressure at all you're just grazing the surface barely just
a generic spray bottle with some water folks 400 grit sandpaper very light pressure remember we're
just wanting to level what we've done thus far we're not necessarily wanting to remove anything
i mean technically yes we're removing something because we're sanding it but you know we're not
going crazy here wow looking pretty smooth looking real smooth looks like we have a few areas of
concern here still a little tacky too and there's some small divots up in this area right here so
what we'll do is we'll allow this to dry a little more then we'll come back and sand it some more
it should be ready to finish after that we're round two of sanding so we're stepping oh we're
going a little bit finer p600 that's 600 grit our first round of sanding we did what uncle ted 400
400 this would be wet application as well yes it'll be a wet application just a little bit
of water not not a whole lot of delivery and same process applies as last time yeah light pressure
the same purpose you keep it as flat as possible good strokes always to stand your edges if you
apply any kind of primer or anything like that your edges are going to have build on them too
a little tab and you just wipe that with a lint-free cloth
yeah final will be like a wipe with a lint-free cloth a little bit of water
and if you really feel like it needs it you can come in and give it a little bit of a
solvent wipe again but not totally necessary if it's clean and you don't have any oils
all right so that was round two of sanding wood application 600 grit we're gonna wipe
off our residue and then what's next should be ready for paint so we finally made it to the
end of the road we're going to be spraying some trim black paint you don't see that on for ted
this is scm to us this is the best oem matched coating as you can see right here on the label
for automotive trim components we currently sell this on our site and this stuff is super legit
same way you would do with the primer you want to give a little test here on the side you know
start with a light coat allow that to flash down not necessarily covering the whole panel you know
the surface okay what's our attack time five ten minutes is that what scm recommends of course
that's gonna be depending on your ambient temperature and your relative humidity
it's about 90 degrees in here probably about 40 humidity so we're kind of within that window of
a five to ten minute flash time coat one catch you guys in a second all right uncle ted second coat
time second coat don't mess up and the good thing about that now that you mentioned that this flat
black paint is pretty pretty forgiving like if you do mess up don't be mad don't throw it away what
are you gonna do just let it dry sand it again and then refinish it in the event that did happen
for somebody what grit sandpaper are they using you'd come back with another 600 just a 600
grit sandpaper dryer wet wet would probably be preferred you know you could do it dry sand also
either way so if they laid it on a little heavy they had a little run or a drip
yeah they could come back like that 600 wet and level it back out okay so that's good
for coat two that's good for coke too all right man it's looking good pretty smooth
this will be a coat number three should be the final coat okay third and final coat
you want it good and wet depending on your application too on the temperature outside a lot
of humidity you want the spray light coats all the way through got you on the ted so we're going to
go ahead and let this dry let this set up what do you want to say maybe a half hour and we'll pull
the pull the masking off of it yep all right folks got ted back here with me moment of truth it's
time to take the masking off now you don't want to go out this super aggressive you know bowling
a china closet type stuff right you want to be no nice and easy okay yeah that way your paper
doesn't overlap sometimes it touch your paint even if it's dry it's still not it still needs like 24
hours before it's totally you know handleable or at least you know 12 hours looking better already
whenever you're doing your removal of the tape you get close to your line of your area
that's really close to the edge of the glass or such you know something close to a real small
edge this is okay just to kind of tear it away but your last little piece that's really close to the
edge you'll want to tear it away from the surface from the painting just kind of the way i'm doing
here see because if you pull like this you're going to overlap if you pull straight you may tear
so you pull it away kind of like that and it has a better removal and there we are
and the last little protective tape we can see it's all done wow look at that uncle ted it's
like you've done this before maybe once or twice we weren't chasing perfection but i would say that
this is in the 95 percentile of how good this looks i mean this looks really good once we get
the car all back together of course clean out some of this compound from getting painted and whatnot
oh man it's gonna look so good she's beautiful well cool thanks uncle ted thank you looks awesome
we'll catch you later all right people that's gonna wrap it up for our quarter window resto
for a 1994-2004 mustang uh if you value this information like the video subscribe to our
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