Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today we're going to be replacing the front CVaxle boots on our 2007 Yamaha Grizzly YFM700.
Let's head over to the table, talk about the parts and the tools that we're going to need
and then we'll dive into it.
This is going to be a skill level two, so let's go over some of the tools you're going
to need to pull this off.
As always, a good torque wrench.
Just make sure the one you have can go past 100 foot-pounds.
3/8ths ratchet.
On the socket side, just a 12, 17, 19, and 27mm.
A couple of different pairs of pliers, 14mm wrench, flat-blade screwdriver, and just a
decent hammer.
Now, if you would, reference our exploded parts diagrams.
That's going to give you an exact picture of how everything's going to come apart and
more importantly, how it's going to go back together.
If you're having trouble deciding which parts you need for your project, look down in the
description.
We've got a link there that already has a shopping list ready to go.
So, once you have your tools and your parts together, we can go get this done.
So let's go.
It starts off really simple guys.
We need to get the machine lifted.
Just make sure that you're using a jack that's stable and can hold it in place.
Now, with the unit up in the air, all we need to do is get the tire off.
Alright, let's start off by getting this outer cover off.
Then what we're going to do is go ahead and remove this axle nut.
We want to take a punch and relieve where it's actually bent in on the axle.
Alright, with that bent back, you can either have somebody hold the brakes or do like I'm
going to do and use an impact to pop it off.
Let's go ahead and get our caliper off and then we'll start getting that knuckle bolt
out.
Just two 12mm hold the caliper bracket on to the knuckle housing.
What we're going to do is lift it up and out of the way and hang it by a zip tie, maybe
off that spring.
As you can tell the brake pads on this unit are brand new, so if you need help changing
out yours why don't you check out our video that shows you how to do it.
Alright, we're going to take off our steering arm and upper control arm but there's a couple
of cotter pins we have to get out first.
Go ahead and get the steering arm first.
We need to use a dead blow hammer on that because a regular hammer is going to damage
the threads.
Alright we're going to have to get a little bit more personal with this thing.
That got it.
That was a last resort.
I hate doing that, but it is what it is.
What I did is took the castle nut and just put it on backwards and it was just enough
of a gap right here to where I could hit it with a direct blow or a metal blow hammer
and that was enough of a shock to get it out of there.
Alright, with our steering arm out of the way, let's go for that upper ball joint.
Alright.
let's see if we can knock it out with a punch.
Want to be careful doing ti this way and not damage the threads.
Seeing how that's about to fall off let's go ahead and get it out of the way.
There we go.
Now let's go ahead and get off that lower ball joint.
It's just held in by a 19mm down at the bottom.
We're going to go ahead and reverse it, put it back on, then use our hammer to pop it
loose.
There she goes.
Alright, let's see if we can get that half-shaft pulled out.
What I'm going to do is use a pry bar on one of the webs back there, put some pressure
on it, and then pop it.
There we go.
Good to go.
Now let's head over to the bench.
As you can tell there are two different part numbers, so make sure you get one of each
if you're going to rebuild the entire CV joint, which I'm going to do.
Now this particular one?
Well, it just has a cut in it.
But the good part is I caught it early so the joint still feels good.
Now if you've got a cut in your and you sling out all your grease and you let a bunch of
dirt and water and everything else get in that joint?
It's going to wear it out and destroy it.
So, if you see a rip in your boot, go ahead and do something about it now because it'll
cost you a lot more to do later.
I know I've only got damage on the outside, but I want to go ahead and show you how to
do both the inner and the outer boots.
Now we've got her locked down.
Now Yamaha uses a pretty cool setup.
You're not even going to need a toll to reattach these like some of the other manufacturers.
And honestly you could actually reuse the clamps if you had to.
Just bend up those tabs, and that releases it.
Just like that.
And off they come.
Now, what I'm gonna do right now is just slide that down, and that will expose the inner
working of the CV joint itself, and the part that we're gonna hit is all the way against
the actual CV shaft itself, because if you hit out here?
You're gonna knock it off the bearings and just make a mess out of it and possibly damage
some of the pieces inside and you don't want to do that.
Tell you what, I'm going to go ahead and cut that boot off so I've got some room to work.
There.
Where we're wanting to hit is all the way on the inside.
There she is, and we managed to do that without damaging anything, so life is good.
Now you'll notice what's holding that in place was just this little ring which actually locked
inside a channel further up inside of that joint.
And with this kit, they actually send a new one.
So we'll go ahead and pull the old one off.
With that all cleaned up and out of the way, we can address the inside boot, and it comes
apart the same way.
Get to those two tabs that are folded down on the clamps and open them up.
Now I just want to get as much of this old grease out of here as I can.
You do not want to spray a bunch of brake cleaner in here to try to get it perfect.
That would not end well.
We just want to wipe out as much old grease as we can get to and then add in the new.
If you've got water, mud, and dirt that's already in yours, you probably need to go
ahead and replace it honestly.
You can try to clean it out but I wouldn't recommend that.
Alright, since we're not removing this inner joint, we will not be using this second snap
ring that they send.
We will replace the one on the very outside of the spindle itself.
Now on this particular job, I'm just replacing the boot because really that's all that needs
to be done.
Now if you look back at our diagramming, it gives you a completely exploded view of every
singe piece in here that you can order individually from us should you need it.
So, with that in mind, I'm leaving this outside joint in place, going to repack it with grease,
and replace the boots because that's all this particular half-shaft needs.
Let's go ahead and start packing the joints back up with grease.
I've got it pushed all the way up, that way I've got a pretty large cavity to fill.
That should do.
Grab our new boot and start working it back down.
When you're pushing down over the joint, you do not want to get any grease in between this
point and this point because I want that to be a dry fit, that way it'll hold on better.
Then this section goes into that groove that you can see on the other end.
This one right here as well.
Alright, now, take our new clamps, slide them over in place.
I like to have them where this front edge is gong with the direction of rotation.
So when you've got it on, once I bend this back into position, this back edge is on the
backside of the rotation so it's rotating forward.
That way there's no way for anything to maybe hit that edge and lift it up.
Now, let's take care of that outside one.
And don't make this rookie mistake and forget to put this on first.
Great sound effects.
Gonna go ahead and fill it all the way up.
Like I said, try to keep it off that outside edge so we get a dry fit on the boot.
Maybe a little bit more in our boot.
Go ahead and ease it on.
Now, don't forget to put your little clip back on the end.
Like I said, there's a new one in this kit.
Now, we can go ahead and get it on there.
Make sure you're lined up on the splines.
When you're putting this back on, want to make sure that you've got that clip up inside
that groove especially on the ends.
Otherwise it's not going to want to go.
I think I've got it.
There she goes.
Bring our boot back up.
Now we just need to get our clamps in place.
Alright, everything's back in place.
Let's go get it back on the machine.
Before we put it in, go ahead and take just a little bit of grease.
Don't get carried away, because there's actually oil up inside that front differential.
I just want to add a little bit to the splines before we reinstall it.
There she goes.
Pop her in.
Alright.
Now, we just need to get the steering knuckle back on there.
Should we ever have to take this back apart again, go ahead and take just a little bit
of grease to the splines so it doesn't rust.
It'll come apart easily.
Get this slid back through.
Get our lower one on.
And get it started.
Get our upper.
Alright we're just going to snug them down to begin with, then we'll get them torqued.
The lower ball joint gets set to 22 foot-pounds.
Go ahead and get our cotter pin back through.
Then the upper is 18 foot-pounds.
Now, as luck would have it, none of those holes lined up so I just put a little bit
more on it to where I could get it to go through.
Sometimes it takes what it takes.
Now let's get the steering arm on.
This one, if you were paying attention, actually has a washer on it.
And it will go to 18 foot-pounds.
Alright, at this point, let's go ahead and get this outer hub on and it's important here
to use a new axle nut because we have to re-stake it.
So we're going to go ahead and draw this in.
Alright, now we can cut our caliper bracket loose, get it remounted, and then get this
torqued down.
And for each one of these it's going to be 22 foot-pounds.
Alright, this guy here has to have 190 foot-pounds on it.
So how are we gonna do that?
What I'm going to do is get all these tools out of the way, take off my center cap on
the wheel itself, remount it, drop it down, put it in park, hold the brakes and have it
sitting on the ground and that should be enough to hold it still to bring it around to 190
foot-pounds.
There we go.
Take the tire back off.
Then we can stake it.
Put the cap back on and finish it up.
Now 40 pounds on the lug nuts.
Well, alright guys, that wraps this one up.
Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
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Have a great day.