- In this video, I'm gonna answer some questions you have
about primers.
(frame whooshing)
So I was asked some questions about primers
that I'm gonna answer in this video.
Let me go to that page where I have the questions at.
Okay, from Duane.
It says, "Thanks for video lessons.
What about sanding primers?
I've watched a few channels and have mixed reviews
on when and what to sand.
I have plans as soon as Canada comes
and gets its drunk weather here in Louisiana,
working on my CT.
And I have different areas of bodywork and patchwork
that needs to be completed and not sure
which type of primer to use?"
Okay, so there are different types of primers.
What I would recommend, anywhere that has metal
you wanna put something for corrosion protection
and I'm gonna recommend epoxy.
There's a couple you can use but to keep from confusion,
it sounds like this is kind of a restoration project
that I would use epoxy primer.
Epoxy is very compatible with other products
and you can put most products on top of that,
so it's very user-friendly.
So I would recommend putting epoxy down on the bare metal
for corrosion protection.
Now, epoxy is not really a fill primer.
You know, its only purpose is for corrosion protection
and adhesion.
Anywhere you have bodywork where you have done a body-fill
or patch panels or any of this stuff
that you're talking about, I would come back
and put primer surfacer, like a 2K primer
that fills those scratches and imperfections
and that's what you would sand.
A primer surfacer basically is like a filler.
You put it on there and sand it out
and if there's any scratches or small imperfections,
you know, that primer will fill those scratches
and you sand it smooth.
So that's what I would recommend is to put epoxy
on any bare metal and put a 2K primer surfacer,
you know, it's also known as fill primer, primer filler,
just a 2K primer on the areas that have bodywork.
Now keep in mind, you know, epoxy has a window.
The one I use is three days so you can put another,
you know, your 2K primer on top of that
within three days and still have your chemical bond.
But after that three days it loses its chemical adhesion
so you will have to provide mechanical adhesion.
So if you put that on there and you, you know,
long time later you go and come back and paint it
and you epoxied all the metal but maybe you just
put primer surfacer on the areas that you needed it,
you will need to scuff that before painting it.
Okay, let's go down to the next question.
And if that didn't enter your question, be sure
to come back and ask and I'll try to better answer that.
Let's see.
Okay, final coat of Feather Fill needs to be
primed, this is by John Wilson.
Final coat of Feather Fill needs to be sanded
before 2K primer.
What grit should I start and end with?
Okay, so you've primed with Feather Fill
and, you know, that's just like a real thick primer.
You know, I would block it out with,
if you're gonna be putting primer surfacer
or 2K primer on it, I would use 220 grit,
I wouldn't go any finer than that 'cause your
primer surfacer, your 2K primer's gonna fill those
220 grit scratches just fine.
So I would sand it down with 220 grit,
put your 2K primer on, block that down with 320
and then once it's blocked out, it looks good,
you know, using your guide coat making sure
there's no scratches left, then I would final sand it
with some 500 grit and then be ready for paint.
And when I say paint, I usually recommend using a
primer sealer just to get a uniform color
before you start painting.
Let's see.
What is the name of the tool you use to pop the fender?
And this is where I've got a fender that's caved in
and I reach this hook in and pop it out.
The most common name for that is Morgan Knocker.
There's other brands out there, but if you go to Amazon
or somewhere and type that in,
you will get a selection of them.
But I believe Morgan knocker is the brand that I'm using
and probably the most common.
They're not the cheapest but they're a good tool.
And it's just a big slide hammer, is what it is.
You know, it work's good.
You know, it's a must for any type of work
that you're doing in autobody.
There's a lot of times if you have the tool,
you'll realize, you know, I need this.
So I would really recommend getting one of those.
I'll try to put a link down the description
so that you can see what I'm talking about
but it's called the Morgan Knocker.
Okay, I'm gonna answer another one.
Let's see.
Okay, here's one from Melissa.
Dumb question, LOL, but do I have to disconnect
the battery before I do this?
And it's talking about replacing a headlight
and anytime you're doing any electrical work
it's a good idea to go ahead and disconnect
the negative battery cable.
It only takes a couple of minutes and be sure
that you tape it off or, you know,
put a bag ear round or something so that if it moves
it doesn't arc and it's always a good idea
to disconnect a negative battery cable.
Ben Crib.
Hi, my name's Michael from New Zealand.
I have a question about 2K.
Ratio's 4:1, 25% reducer to mix with the paint
will make it runny on the roof of the car.
I'm okay with the spray gun.
Less reducer, what do you think?
Okay, a lot of these products, you know,
they'll give you like 4:1, the mixing ratio 4:1
and it's an option to mix it up to 25%.
So what that means is you go ahead and mix it
and then whatever volume you have at that time
you can reduce it up to 25%.
And I know like with epoxy and some primers, you know,
are like that.
And what the 25% is gonna do it's just gonna thin it out
where it sprays a little smoother.
For example, epoxy, if you're spraying epoxy
and you're gonna be putting 2K primer over it,
there's no need to reduce it
because you're gonna be sanding that.
But if you're spraying epoxy and you're using it as a,
basically as a sealer, primer sealer,
and you're gonna paint right on top of that,
put your base coat, I would recommend going ahead
and reducing it, you know, the recommended amount.
Because that would just allow it
to flow out a little smoother and then that won't give you
the orange peel that maybe you would have
without adding the reducer.
So it kind of depends on the application on that.
Next question comes from John Lewis.
How long does after painting should you wait to wet sand?
And I'm assuming you're talking about buffing and polishing.
Well, I usually do it the next day.
I'll let it dry overnight then the next day, I mean,
there's a window, you can do it any time
but if you wait too long, it's a little bit harder
'cause that paint gets harder.
It's best to do it, you know, the next day,
is to buff and polish it.
It'll usually say in your technical data sheet, you know,
the recommended time and that's what I would follow.
You know, I'd get the, go to wherever you buy the paint at
and ask for the technical data sheet for that clear coat
or whatever it is that your painting
and it will give you the recommendations.
But I usually do it the next day
and that works pretty well for me.
All right, well I hope this helped answer your question
and that wraps it up for this video.
I do appreciate you for watching.
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Thanks for watching, take care
and we'll see you in the next video.