I wanted to make a workbench to assemble things on right here but then I realized the workbench
should have in the other room doesn't really fit that well in there and it would be perfect
for that spot so I'll be moving that workbench and make a workbench that's perfect for this
spot so I modeled what I want this workbench to roughly look like in Sketchup and it will fit an
existing drawer that's this thing here the frame for this workbench is it's going to be made out of
regular two by fours well actually a bit nicer than regular because I picked about carefully
I'm joining and plenty all these pieces on each side
because they're not entirely square or accurate
the joinery for the corners of this workbench is going to be just like
I did on this one with quarter inch box joints and that gives their workbench a
lot of side-to-side stability while leaving the front mostly open for drawers and stuff
like that a simpler alternative would be say something like this but this crossmember here
it just blocks off a lot of area that could be drawers so I set up my screw advanced box
joint jig for the first time since the move and as usual I'm just cutting them
with a regular saw blade and making several cuts to hog out those quarter inch slots
and these work pieces would have hit the ceiling in my old basement shop though
in the big garage workshop I had more than three meters above the table saw
and this way I get the fingers relatively in lined so that these two parts are flush like
on a box joined in the top corner and I'd like to put a box joint here as well but this is not
a corner it's a T joint so instead I'm still going to have one piece just like for the box
joint and in the other part I'm just going to put in a series of mortises to join those
together securely I got my slot martyr setup to cut those slots lined up for the first slot
and eight turns of this crank moves it to the next slot and this wheel comes to turn
I cut the tents the same way I cut the Box joints and the slots are a little bit longer so I can
leave the edges of the 10-inch square and next I need a piece of wood that goes in between here
and the next frame to tie those together and I'm going to cut a mortise right here
I moved the rotor up a tiny bit to cut that morning said tiny bit wiring it needs to be
more on that later I rounded all the edges ups and strips of hardwood to
use them for floating tenants to assemble all the pieces together
I did a dry fit and now I'm going to make some panels that will fit into the sides here and I
marked where I need to kind of groove for that panel to go into that plywood I want to use for
this is only about four and a half millimeters thick and I can cut a slot just a bit wider
than that by stacking two regular circular saw blades against each other and actually positioned
them so that the fatter part of the teeth bumps against each other which spreads them apart of it
now what the slots that go in the legs that's this part here
to be a little bit wider so I'm just going to adjust the blade to have the
teeth right next to each other and that'll force them further apart
I'm adding a round over to all the edges for where the side panel is going to fit in
and now I can finally start gluing those frames together and then nearly glue this
one backwards well this is embarrassing I couldn't get that joint to close all
the way I've got a bit of a millimeter gap right here probably what happened is I had
the piece that slightly crooked on this lot mortar sir and then the top mortises didn't
get cut deep enough but fortunately this is on the inside this will be the outside
so for the second of these frames I just use two clamps to pull that join together
that works much better than banging it and of course never forget to check that it's
square the reason I widened the mortises on the leg pieces a little bit earlier is
so that I can get the ted's and more easily right here although this one's still a bit
tight now we're gonna cut this panel so it precisely fits in here vertically so I made
this to measure the inside of these slots and it's a little bit too long
it's necessary to say this every time I'm gluing in a plywood panel not a solid wood
panel which means it won't move which means it's okay to glue it into this slot so even
with this dry fit it's stiff enough that it won't twist to conform to the floor I
cut the corner box joints a little bit too long but for the top I need to flatten it
I made a simple wooden drill guide to drill the holes into the mortise and to get all the way to
the corner I'm using a really thin long drill which I can bend as I drove so these holes are
offset a little bit so I pulls the 10 in a bit as I put this screw in and I'm also planning on using
bigger screws for this eventually but for this assembly I'm just using small drywall screws I
need that Center dividers to be exactly centered so I made two spacer to the same
length that force it right in the middle I'm only attaching that center divider
with screws that way I don't kind of wait too much material play that crossmember
next comes the drawers and drawers lines that I've got are a bit sure then the cabinet is
deep so I have a place to mount them I've got a 2 by 6 sticking forward here and then in these
corners I've got another piece that goes in here so I have a place to screw them onto each
of these boards should be enough for just one drawer now I just got to cut those two pieces
I'm cutting a very shallow rabbit joint for the corners of the drawers this is not about
strength but the rabbit makes it much easier to align that parts up when I assemble them
I have to make sure that the drawers will fit in this opening and that is fifty-four point
two centimeters my odorous lights take away an inch so minus two point five four - this twice
that's this much gives me 48 point five one centimeters that this part needs to be long
these boards are not that precise so I make sure I have one good straight edge
on every piece and after that I rip them all to the same width on the table saw
you might be wondering why I use porter-cable nail guns well I used them because I found them in a
dumpster and over the years I've come to realize why they ended up in the dumpster they just have
a tendency to Jam I filed out the gaps where the nails go through a bit from time to time but still
once in a while they just jam the bottom of the doors is mostly made from new fighting because
since the move that's all I've got and I just put the drawer on the table saw itself to set the
fence that way I don't have to measure to get the exact measurement and then I cut the pieces that I
cut down the middle and after that I clapped a stop block to my sled to cut all the pieces to
the right length and then I forgot to shut off the camera while I did some more work which is
using so many scraps of plywood and I picked out of the garbage to slice those together to make
two more our bottoms I didn't have enough plywood unfortunately these drawer bottoms end up having
some holes in it because the plywood had holes in it too and then assembled a few more drawers
this is playing back at 32 times speed I always made a trip to the belt sander with each drawer
bottom to just round the edges to make it nicer to drive then I worked out what size spacers I needed
between the drawer slides to mount them precisely in the cabinet and when I mounted them I just
glue them in place so they also help to support drawer slides and that worked out pretty good I
actually made a separate video about this method and then loading a drawer slides was really easy
placing him precisely after that I inserted all the drawers just to make sure everything
fit nicely and then I have to take them out again for gluing the drawer fronts on I positioned the
drawer fronts more absolute and relative to each other and that means the drawers are actually
interchangeable to a degree more about that in my video about using spacers to both the drawer
slides I made some drawer pulls out of marinwood which is a really hard domestic wood and that is
an interesting topic on its fold so actually made a longer separate video about how I make
those I end up using my slop order sphere to cut the inside straight and smooth that worked out
really nicely I made some wooden drill guides to consistently imprecisely drill holes in the
handles as well as the Front's of the drawers and that way I got them all on there nice and
accurate and level without too much effort and then I took everything apart again because I used
some oil-based varnish in the garage and that stuff is a little bit smelly but the color of
the cherry came out super nice and then I put it back together in its final place using screws to
lock those loose mores and tenon joints in place I don't know how much use that this assemble feature
is going to be because the drawer slides need to be removed for the workbench to come apart which
makes it a bit more work than I had planned I propped up one side of the cabinet while
mounting at drawer slides just to make sure they wouldn't tip out on me by accident but I don't
think that was necessary and finally putting the drawers back in these went in relatively
easily this time because I put some of space just behind some of the drawer slides because
I had about an extra millimeter and a half of space in there and with those spacers in there
the drawer slides fit perfectly yeah what punch top is a brand new surplus ghost knob from the
Habitat ReStore and I need a backward scouring cut before cutting it apart to avoid tearing I have to
add a piece of 2x4 to the back of the slab to get enough depth for where the workbench needs to go
I'm only attaching the top with two small screws that way once the top
is all messed up I can flip it over to get a good new surface