Hello everyone and welcome to the X3M TIG channel for today's video I'm gonna do a
root in position on a 10-inch carbon pipe it's an sch.80. we got a tree
so basically just to fit up I got a tree tacks I use that stepped wedge to make the gap even I was
using 5/32 yeah it's a pretty nice good handy tools to have even if you are green or if you Pro
it's gonna help you it's going to keep you even, consistent gap all the way around
as I said 5/32 it's like a wedge and a gauge so you can push and pull open up as you can see I
got the two torches here they've both rated 150 amps this is why I got two they're getting
hot really fast, really quick it's really easy to worn out all those parts so you
gotta change them really frequently that's why I like using two as they only rated at 150.
I'm on the root I'm gonna run 130-135 amps as you can see there's a 3 root tacks on a
3, 6, and 9 o'clock we're going to start at the bottom and I'm gonna start at the bottom on
the 6 o'clock and we're gonna go up on this side up to 3 o'clock and then we're gonna feather
out those tacks so for a cup it's a size 8 , tungsten 1/8 , 2% thoriated
for the filler wire is 1/8, 70S-6 as I said 130 - 135 amps on a for the root pass
so I'm gonna walk the cup, wiggle that cup inside the inside that root you can
do like two ways you can with the bottom like a regular or with a top part of your cup
I like to do both it depends from the position and everything else
so for the bottom, I like for the tack when you start just preheat once you start melting
and create that good nice temperature, amperage then you can just keep moving side to side motion
and slowly progressing up I keep the rod we're constantly connected to the puddle keep that
road slightly inside as you can see here it's not like a back feed it's similar to the lay wire technique
it's just the angle of the inclination you have to find for yourself it's not
there's not any specific angle I can tell you, it's a 25, 33 or 15 it's something that
you have to find out for yourself to see what's working for you that's the root I did so far
look root looks good looks nice looks alright solid as long as you have a nice solid root
there's not gonna be any worries for a suck back later on with a hot pass so
for the tacks I'm gonna do feather tacks we got a feather both pretty much all tack but
you want to have that entry and exit Point feather out like you can see here okay
little built up in the middle and for the Stop starts as well always ground out, especially when
you're using a piece of equipment I do with a scratch start there's no actually any controlled
usually those fancy torches they got a stop start on their handle actually on the torch pause
stop start not in this case this is only 75 bucks torch that's what most companies they like to
do they want to do a million-million dollar jobs with a $ 75 tig torch, anyway that's how they say
spend dollars to save pennies okay so here for we'll continue on preheat keep that wire inside
give that wire keep that constant connection or a constant feed
just a feed enough you're gonna have nice good solid build ups good enough solid
root protrusion inside so for the tie-in here when you go up to the tack I like to do a slow
down I want to see both edges before tack I like to slow down and pause on the sides I just go
a little bit faster over that middle and then In the end when it starts opening up I
just try to make a nice good connection and try not to lose connections like do here but I'm
gonna keep a nice good solid connection together just continue on okay that's the root
section I did so far just taking shot from the outside from the other side of the of the gap
and that's the root I got to that 3 o'clock on the other side
as you can see here I put a wegg on the top as a pipe starts shrinking that gap start
closing up on me yeah , so I'm gonna go up up to 1 o'clock, this is where I'm gonna stop
so that's what we're gonna do just grind that stop-start and here I'm now
around 1 o'clock this is where we're gonna stop so before I do anything on the top
I'm just going to continue on welding on the other side from the bottom up to 11 o'clock on the other
side and then we're gonna pull that edge out okay as you can see here the gap is still even 5/32 I'm
gonna weld up to that gap feather out and then continue up on the top on up to 11 o'clock
so the same thing if you want you can you can grind out a little stop stars here on that
on the tack same thing keep it inclination keep the rod slightly inside as you can see here I just
I keep that rod it's inside that inside our root inside that bevel inside that edge
and just feed, feed enough I can't tell you how much you can feed that it's something you
have to find out by your own you know you have to have that feeling how how much the
you should be able to to deposit inside especially on the sides here when you go
inside I know lots of guys struggle to have a big build-up on the side on a 9 o'clock
but here as you can see here just place the rod slightly inside outside don't keep that rod
inside that root keep it like 50 /50 you know half a part on the outside the half rod on the inside
and then you're gonna have something like this it's not gonna be like lots of grapes on the side
okay this is the last shot I'm taking from inside because we're gonna put a
we gotta put another fitting on that tee so it's going to be closed
and I'm not going to be able to do any more shots so far it's good that's that should be good enough
there's always little that edge you know between fitting in a spool okay now as I said feather out
the tack, feather out stop-starts and continue on if you missed
the previous shot I did when you tie in when you tie into that tack pause, slow down here I like to
see both connections as I said before, you can dip it on both sides you
know and then just go a little bit you can run over and then pause a little bit here and then
can do a dipping technique just keep both edges or you can dip right in the middle and
stretch that puddle on the both sides just keep doing motion you know side to side
you gotta have good timing you know how much rod you can deposit so you don't have any sage
down as you can see here now we're going to pull that wedge out it's really tight I
try to pull it out by my hand but it's a no-go so I'm gonna Hammer that out I probably going
to damage that bevel now there's no land anymore I've got probably 1/8 land
so I'm gonna open up with the 1/8 disc and you got to do it by yourself I got to do
I'm going to do feather edge on both sides of the bevel
like for a beveled edge the best thing I find out if it's a zip cut actually
it's a little bit difficult if you're not so experienced you got to be really careful not
to break down that disc or get injured so it's not still fully open for 1/8 but good enough to
Keyhole technique you can go a little bit hotter crank up a little bit the amperage you know like
right now you can go 140 - 145 and just to keep Keyhole technique the dipped right in the middle
and stretch that puddle okay tungsten always sharp you can change the nozzle like a or a cup
like for this size of a groove 1/8 is good enough for me
if you got a little less you can pull on cup size 6 so it fits nice inside and you can
actually wiggle that and go and go fast as you can see here at rod in the middle stretch that puddle
one two three it's a little bit coordination between your two hands you know
once you got the dial in shouldn't be any worries it shouldn't be worries
for any grapes especially on the top part because the gravity is now going
to Sag down, it's more than enough root deposit inside it's going to be nice even
root has beautiful ring and for the tie-in on the top the same thing is on the sides for the
for the tack I did the tie-ins just pause a little bit on beginning add the
keep adding wire and once you go over go like half inch over to have nice smooth tie in
and that's it pretty much for the root pass it's still hot run buffing wheel when it's still hot
so you don't have any impurities inside that impurities when you run a hot pass all impurities
if you got on a root it might just make you a a little bit more difficult to control that puddle
that's why it's a good habit just to run a buffing wheel or even you can
run a grinder a little bit if you don't so you don't have any obstacles
inside the groove, so you can can actually, drive that cup nice and smooth
the same thing you can both sides on a cup depends on what you prefer and for the
hot pass 160 easy it's gonna burn that rod nice and easy you're gonna have a nice good
deposit I don't no worries about a suck back and it's not gonna happen as long as you have
a nice good solid root inside you shouldn't be worried about suck back here on the side
and on the top part that's the best the the easiest part actually now you're resting
your hand is just it's a wrist motion guys and just keep that slow down here a little
bit just to see how you stretch that puddle nice and covers all that groove inside
as long as it's nice and clean and you're gonna have that nice clean
a nice clean puddle you can see everything what's going on it's
it's a really beautiful process this is the best part actually of and a cap
and that's it this side is done one section is done with a hot pass
still got the other side left and the top part
and that's it, the hot pass is done on both sides
I'm just gonna run a buffing wheel once again, clean all that, and later on, I'm gonna do a
fill to flush it's gonna be one pass and cap but it's going to be for next
video that's coming up after this so if you guys interested you can check it out later
usually some guys they go like two passes three passes with a cap or even two pass
cap, but just gonna do one pass fill to Flush and one pass cap and that's it pretty much
guys for this today's video thanks for watching and see you in the next one, take care!