Another war has broken out
this time it’s the Chadian rebels
coming from Sudan.
The entire region
has been at each other’s throats
ever since they declared independence.
Not surprisingly,
whole armies are permanently massed
along the borders.
This is one of their headquarters.
Those beds are for the higher ranks
most of the men sleep on the ground.
Though even officers eat relatively simple meals.
It’s still better than the rank and file.
They have to fend largely for themselves.
It is strictly against the law to shoot footage
of anything military
though apparently no one told the soldiers.
They love to have their pictures taken.
Military service comes with certain perks
and benefits
like the chance to shoot rocket propelled grenades
and other heavy weapons.
Though in reality,
their lives are mostly bouts of boredom
punctuated by the occasional war.
In between
they spend a lot of time swapping amulets.
Each one contains a passage from the Koran
that will make the wearer invisible
and shield him from bullets.
Toyota land cruisers are the vehicles of choice.
They can handle very heavy loads.
Some generals have even had theirs customized,
Though that means giving up a few very useful
accessories.
They’re heading out on a week-long border patrol.
All that bulky bedding will make useful padding
on the coming, seven-hour drive.
It’ll also cushion the grenades.
You can always tell when soldiers have been in town.
As if they didn't already have enough on board
they pick up a few hitchhikers
including me.
I’m not particularly worried about the ride ahead
until I realize that we have a high- ranking officer behind the wheel
and we’re sitting on two fifty-five gallon drums of gasoline
Along with half a ton of assorted explosives.
We’re a moving bomb.
All it takes is one stray bullet.
Oh well.
It’s not like I’m walking back to town.
We stop just once.
The only spare is at the bottom of the load.
At least it’s a chance to retie turbans
and share a welcome drink of water.
Three hours later, we make it to the border.
Which is even more primitive
than the tree the headquarters was under.
And full of child soldiers.
For the first time in their lives,
The men have to cook for themselves,
haul their own water,
do their own laundry,
and even serve their own food.
Though by now we’re all so hungry
that we’ll eat just about anything.
Once tea is served,
everyone finds a tree to hang their amulets.
They even build some furniture
and add a few personal touches.
It almost feels like home.
The trees are more than just an escape
from the scorching heat.
They help camouflage the army’s strength.
You wouldn’t know it,
but there are several thousand men
within a couple mile radius.
There’s not much to do around here
except plan their next campaign.
Six AM, before it gets too hot,
we head out on patrol.
Believe it or not, that tree is the border.
The source of all those wars.
Nobody can tell me
exactly why they hate their neighbors
only that if they set one foot across the border
They’re going to blow them into a million pieces.