﻿Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
If your hot surface indicator light stays on,
and won't turn off once the cooktop is cooled down,
then it's not an issue with the light.
Instead it's a problem with the limiter in one of the surface elements.
In this episode, first we'll learn how it all works, and then we'll test each surface element.
Finally we'll learn how to install a replacement.
Let's get started.
Electric stoves are pretty simple at a base level.
When electricity passes through the heating element,
the resistance in the material generates heat.
Each burner is on a separate circuit, and is controlled by an infinite heat switch.
When you turn the dial the switch closes letting 120 volts
travel through both sides of the element.
This provides the necessary 240 volts.
One side of the switch will remain closed which will power the cooktop indicator light.
The other side of the switch will open and disconnect power once the element heats up.
It will cycle on and off to maintain the set level of heat.
Heating elements have a built-in limiter which includes a high limit switch
and an indicator switch.
The indicator switch is on a separate circuit from the element, and receives power independently.
If the contacts are stuck closed, then the hot surface light will stay on,
even when the elements are completely cool.
Since all burners are connected to the light,
you'll have to open up the cooktop to test each element.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, gloves, and a multimeter.
Always be safe, and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges, it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room, go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
To access and test the element, you'll have to lift up the cooktop.
First open the oven door, and remove the mounting screws.
Now lift up and use a piece of wood or a sturdy object to prop it open.
Unscrew the mounting brackets, and lower the heating elements.
Now remove the cooktop.
In some models the elements are mounted on a metal plate.
In this case you should be able to disconnect the wires to remove the whole top.
Now unscrew the mounting plate to access the elements.
Using a multimeter, we can test the limiter in each element.
A continuity test will determine if there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
The high limit switch will shut off the element if it overheats.
It's connected to the larger terminals marked 1A and 2A.
The switch is normally closed, and will have continuity at room temperature.
The indicator switch is connected to the two smaller terminals marked 1B and 2B.
When the element heats up past 150 degrees Fahrenheit,
the switch will close, turning on the hot surface light.
This switch is normally open, and will not have continuity at room temperature.
The indicator switch and limit switch terminals can be in either orientation,
so make sure to check the terminal names before testing.
First take a picture of the wires for reference.
Now disconnect the wires to isolate the limiter.
Set the multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Now check for continuity between 1B and 2B.
If there is a reading between 0 and 1 ohm, then the switch has continuity.
This means that the contacts are stuck closed and the element will need to be replaced.
If there is no reading, and no continuity at room temperature, then the indicator switch is good.
Repeat the test with each surface element until you find the one with the faulty limiter.
First disconnect the wires to isolate the element.
The surface element is connected to the mounting bracket by two spring clips.
If there is more than one hole on each side, then mark the holes that are used.
Now separate the spring clips from the bracket.
You might need to use pliers to help release the clips.
Next flip the element over.
You'll see the part number wattage and voltage ratings.
These can be used to find a replacement.
Alternatively, you can enter your model number on the AMRE Supply website.
From there you'll see a parts breakdown with the exact replacement parts listed for your model.
On the bottom of the heating element, you'll notice that each spring clip has a number.
Write these down so you can match the position on the new element.
Now unscrew the clips from the bottom.
Install the spring clips on the new element in the same numbered position as before.
Align the element and insert the clips into the holes on the mounting bracket.
Now reconnect the wires.
If the elements were mounted on a metal plate, then reattach the plate and replace the screws.
Align the tabs of the cooktop into the slots on the back.
Now prop it open.
Next align the elements and mounting brackets to the underside of the glass,
and replace the screws.
Now lower the cooktop, and tighten the screws.
Now plug in the cord and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your stove.
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furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.