Hey, this is Donnie Smith
and welcome to another
Eastwood video series.
In this video series, we're
painting a Mustang black.
We're changing colors
and we're using a lot of the Eastwood products.
You can visit our friends at Eastwood
by clicking right here.
And in this video series
we're showing you the steps that
we're taking to paint this car.
Now this video series
we're gonna show you a method for
finding lows,
repairing dents,
and we're gonna show you how
you can use the existing coatings
if it's in good shape, as this one was,
as we discussed in previous videos,
you can actually use the coatings that are on there.
You've got E-coat,
you've got undercoatings,
you've got the base coat,
you've got clear coat.
Well, you know there's 4 go 6 mils right there
of coating.
You don't necessarily always have to
scuff something up and prime
just to get something to block sand.
Use the coatings that are on there,
and we're gonna show you how to do that.
Now let's listen to Becca and Dylan.
They're gonna explain
locating and repairing dents.
- So now that we've block sanded it
we're looking for
spots that are a little more glossy,
such is this one,
and we want to feel and see if it's
a high or a low
or if it's just a spot that we missed
while sanding.
- All right, so we've got this dent right here
and we can get to the back side of it.
We're gonna take this dolly
and you're gonna push,
say you're on the back side,
you're gonna push down
and you're gonna roll with it,
just roll it in.
And we're gonna try to do that
on the back side here on this one
and maybe try a little bit on this one
even though it says putty.
Now you could use some PDR tools
and use PDR methods if you have those tools,
but this is just a method that's
been around for years,
way before PDR came out
and a lot of the tools,
and if you just got a dolly,
you can work on these,
massage these dents out,
and it works well.
Now he's blocking it out.
He's using the coatings,
the clear coat,
all the coatings that was on the car originally,
he's using that
to block the car out.
- Well, I got some of it out,
but you see you've still got
some low right there
that still needs to come out.
But as you're going you can
just take your block and cross-sand
to find out if you've gotten any of it out.
And once you get far enough
you might even be able to block it out.
See, it's coming out a lot more now.
Not as shiny or anything, so
this one will probably come out pretty easy.
- We got 320 on a long block,
and there's a minor wave right here.
We might be able to block it out.
So I'm just gonna keep my block flat
and cross-sand
and the wave might come out.
If not, we might have to glaze it.
- This one Logan's working on
and the one Dylan was working on
both blocked out fine.
We didn't have to use any glaze
or anything like that.
Now this one Sam's working on,
we're using the same method, however,
he wasn't able to get it out all the way
without applying some glaze putty or
something like that.
So what you do in a case like that,
you get some 180, sand it,
because you want the glaze putty to
have something to stick to,
and 180 is really the finest you want to
sand it with.
So we got that one ready.
And here, Becca is block sanding.
We're doing the entire car,
trying to locate any lows
or block them out if needed.
Because remember, we are painting this car black,
and black shows every imperfection,
so we want to get it
just as smooth and level as possible.
Okay, now I've sped it up a little bit,
but what I'm doing is
I'm sanding some rock chips out
using a DA sander,
a dual action sander.
And hoods, front bumper covers get a lot of rock chips
because when you travel down the road,
rocks getting kicked up and
hitting those surfaces.
Now I don't have to worry about
dents on this hood because it's SMC,
sheet molding compound,
kind of similar to fiberglass.
Don't have to worry about dents
but you do need to worry about
actually sanding lows into this,
so you don't want to dig your DA in
when you're trying to feather out those chips,
because you can actually sand into that
sheet molding compound,
and make a low doing that
so you want to keep it good and level.
So I went around, got it DA-ed,
got the rock chips feather edged out,
then I went around with a block,
just to make sure I helped level everything.
We're gonna prime this entire hood.
The rest of the car,
only the areas that need it.
But since this hood is sheet molded compound,
it had so many rock chips,
we don't want to see any feather-edge rings
or anything like that.
So we're gonna get this hood
and we're gonna prime it
and then re-block it one more time.
Especially, like I mentioned,
this car is black,
and if anything's not right,
you're gonna see it.
So there you go. There's a few tips
of how you can block sand
without using as much primer.
Remember, primer costs a lot of money,
and all you're doing with primer surfacer
is you're trying to build mils up
to give you something to sand.
So if you can use the coatings that are on there
to do part of that at least,
I mean, you're still gonna have to prime,
use primer surfacer,
but if you can eliminate a lot of that
you can use the coatings that are on there
to block out minor lows,
which we did with a couple of these dents.
Now we'll probably go ahead and
prime those areas and block it out
one more time just to make sure,
especially since it's black.
But we'll get it blocked out,
and the ones that we were not able to
block out with the coatings,
these are just minor dents,
minor waves,
we're gonna use some glaze coat.
Remember to use at least 180 grit,
that's really the finest you want to go,
before putting glaze coat on.
Any finer than that, you may not have good adhesion.
And another common question I get on
YouTube a lot is
do I have to prime the whole car?
A lot of people have the idea that
they have to sand the whole car,
prime the whole car and
block the whole car.
I hope this video helps answer that.
Why not use the coatings that are on there
as your primer filler,
block it out,
and then if you need some additional filling,
then you can use primer surfacer.
Now you always want to use primer surfacer
over feather edged areas
so you don't have rings.
You want to use it over any
body filler or glaze to help
remove all those scratches,
but other than that,
I really don't think there's a need
to primer surface the whole car.
Now if there's a problem with the
coatings on the car,
if it's cracking, peeling,
a number of things,
it's too thick, the mils are too thick,
and as we discussed in previous videos,
of course you're gonna have to strip
some or all of that off.
But in this case, we were able just to
block it out,
blocked a lot of it out,
and it also helps locate dents.
Whenever you're blocking,
there's a glossy spot left there,
you're gonna see that,
and that's gonna tell you,
hey, something's there,
you need to keep on blocking it out,
or we're gonna have to do
some dent removal method,
pull it,
or if it's real minor,
you know you can apply glaze.
So anyway, I hope this video helped.
If it did, if you like this video,
be sure and give us a thumbs up.
Go down below and leave us a comment.
Tell us if you have a different way
of doing things, or
if you'd like to share
any feedback.
We always appreciate your comments,
we enjoy reading your comments.
Be sure and share this with your friends,
anybody that may be interested in
painting their own car, or doing body work
or anything like that.
Thanks for watching this video.
I appreciate each one of you
for taking the time to watch this
and we'll see you in the next one.