Hello, John Talley here with Boats.net. Today I'm going to walk you
through the process of breaking down the lower unit on our 2004 YamahaF225. As
you can see in a previous video, the whole motor is in pretty bad shape so I
don't know what we're gonna run into here. I do need to walk over to the table
and show you all the special tools we're gonna need to get this unit completely
pulled down so we can inspect it. So let's head over to the table, take a look,
and then we can get started. Now normally, I would have all these new parts laid
out that we're gonna install. This video is just about breaking down the
unit and analyzing them to see what we can use and what we're gonna have to replace.
There are however several special tools that we're gonna need to get in order to
pull this off. First, you're going to need a bearing driver set and you need to
make sure that one of the driving heads is a 40 millimeter. Next, you're going to
need a special puller to pull the input shaft housing, and for that we went to
Marine Tech and they have a very nice unit that works really well in this
particular lower unit. Next, I also need to be able to pull the output shaft
housing. For that, once again we went to Marine Tech. Really nice heavy-duty
industrial unit. Now the next one is pretty easy to pick up. You just want to
get a slide hammer set. The only thing you want to make sure of is that it has
a couple of claws that you can orient into 180-degree fashion. So now that we
have our special tools, let's go over there start pulling this thing apart.
Step one. After you've removed the drive from the unit is to of course drain the
fluid out of it. This one's already been drained, and just to give you another
preview of what we have coming, this is the drain bolt has a magnetic tip and it
looks furry to say the least. So this one's already been drained, so let's keep
going. As with anything, it's easier to take it apart than to put it together. My
advice, as you're doing this, is to lay it out on the table is it comes apart in
the same order as if you were looking at a parts diagram. That way, it makes it a
little bit easier to get it back together.
Because if you're like me, I can remember some information, you know, within a
couple of days, but if have to order parts and a week goes by, I'm not gonna
remember how that went together. So it's easier to have the old stuff laid out
instead of just piled up in one big pile.
The trick I do is, I don't know if you can see back there, I've got towels laid
out. That's where I kind of group each section together.
If you ordered that special tool that they used to pull the housing out, it
also comes with this which is kind of cool, because you can reach in and
actually pop up this little collar that's holding that nylon piece down. Now
if you don't have one of those, what I usually usually do is just put a socket
on either side and just use the screwdriver to gently pry it up on
either side to finally frees up. But, since we had this tool, let's go ahead
and use it. That made it pretty easy, huh? Now its plastic collar, it's actually
split so you just want to pull it apart just a tick and then it'll come up. And below
it, you're gonna see three washers: there's gonna be a flat one, and then a
wavy one, and that's followed by another flat one, so you want to make sure you
keep those together as it comes off. Now we can bring off our water pump. Let's
get under the edge, lift her up. Remove the key. Hopefully yours won't be as
difficult as that one. Now we can lift off that lower plate as well as the
gasket. Next let's go ahead and get that upper bearing housing and seals out. A
special tool that I'm going to use to do that works very well. I want to caution
you though, this one hasn't been in there long. And now if yours has been in there
for a while and it's been corroded, before you use that special tool you
want to go ahead and break it loose with a-- I don't want to use a
chisel-- but you want to use something to break it loose with a hammer just to get
it to rotate just a little bit just to break that seal loose. Once you do that,
the tool shouldn't have a problem going ahead and pulling it out. If you don't,
you run the risk for those fingers coming up and shearing off the bottom
part of here and making an edge instead of grabbing.
Now make sure yours is already broken loose, and once it is go ahead and use the
special tool to go ahead and pull that housing up and out. Like I said, when
things have already been disassembled once, it makes it really easy. So at this
point, let's pause on the input shaft and go ahead and pull our prop shaft. So
let's start by getting this outer ring off. Just a couple of 12 millimeters. And
under that we'll have a couple more 12s. Get those out, and then we'll be able to
put on our puller and pop that prop shaft housing out. At that point, you'll
really be able to see just how ugly it is on the inside of this drive. Once you
get the trim off, there's only a couple of 10 millimeters under that actually
bolting the prop shaft housing in. So this should just slide out without much effort.
Like I said, a lot easier when they've already been pulled apart and put back
together once. And now you can see the gravity of our situation here. It's not
completely frozen up, but that should turn very smoothly and it's in serious
trouble. So next let's go and finish breaking it down. Get the shift shaft out
of the way, remove that that nut for the input shaft, then we'll get the rest of
the gears out. Let's get that shift shaft out of there.
Be careful when you're prying these up. It is just plastic it's easy to snap
these. Grab it too hard with these, you'll mar it up. Otherwise she'll not be able to be
reused - there we go. Another indicator. I'm pretty sure it did not look like
that when it was assembled at the factory. So with our shift shaft out,
let's go ahead and get our prop shaft pulled through. So so far I think we'd be--
we will be able to just replace the bearings in here. Get all this cleaned up
and get it sealed back up. But I won't be able to make that final determination
until I get all of this gunk and rust and everything else cleaned off. I don't
want to stop and do that now. Let's go ahead and get the rest of the the
gearing out and see what see what it looks like. So we've got a twenty two
millimeter down low. Now I've got an adapter up top, let's see if we can break
that bolt loose.
Alright, there she is. What we're gonna do here is I'm just
going to grab up the set of vise grips at a non surfaced area-- I mean in other
words there's no bearings or any type of seals in that location. See if we tap it
a little bit and get it to release. And there we go.
Yeah it was a little stuck down on those needle bearings. This is scary stuff here
guys. Everything in here is looking really nasty so far. I really can't
evaluate it until I get it cleaned up, so let's finish breaking it down, then I'll
get everything cleaned up, spread it out on the table, then we'll make a decision
if we can reuse any of it or not. Alright, so let's reach in and get that
forward gear. Oh boy. Gee, I wonder why it was being tough to turn? So it's cleaned out
reasonably well, but there are still two things that need to be pulled out. One is
going to be that needle bearing for the input shaft, and then there's the race
for the bearing that's on the, the forward gear. Now believe me, if you look
through the Yamaha manual, it has two pages worth of special tools that you
need to really extract and then reinstall all these bearings. Now do I
have access to all those? Well yes, I do. But I'm betting that you don't, so what
we're gonna do is show you the correct tool from Yamaha and then I'm
gonna show you a workaround that probably cost a quarter of what that
official Yamaha special tool will. So what I'm going to be using to do this is,
you probably see me use this before, it's made by Motion Pro, a nice little driver
set. Aluminum works really well for situations like this and I'm using the
40 millimeter attachment. But the trick is, the bearings way down in there. So the
way we're going to do that to get it to knock out,
so we're gonna go ahead and lower in our tool. And because I bet you won't be
doing this every day of your life, we're just going to use a piece of 3/4 inch
conduit and then drive it through. There it is.
Alright guys, with that out of the way we have two more left to pull. We need to
get that race all the way at the front of the lower unit housing, and to do that
we're going to use a slide hammer puller.
There she comes.
Now the other piece that you're going to see are going to be the shims. It looks
like there's two of them. Next, we're challenged with getting the bearing off
the forward gear, and the only way I know how to do this is to use a bearing
separator combined with a press. So, let's get it set up and get that thing pressed
off of there.
That should give us enough room. Let's see what she does.
That's the satisfying sound. The jury's still out on this one. There's a fair
amount of rust on the gear itself. Once we get it cleaned up, I'll see if there's
still some pitting, see if this is just surface. Then we'll make a decision as to
whether or not we want to use this or not. Now we're taking a look at the prop
shaft housing, and I can tell you just looking at the, this where the seals are
supposed to be going in, I don't think this housing is usable. But I do want to
go ahead and pull the gear off of it, so I want to show you how to do that. I may
or may not use this gear as it has a fair amount of rust on it, but let's go
to under the assumption that it can be used and that means I've got to get it
out of this housing. So let's get it pulled. And there's our biggest problem
child. I mean, it's just about completely frozen up. So, one more time, reach in with a
bearing puller, pop that one out.
Alright guys, there you go. The entire lower unit completely broken down. Now
depending on what you're having to do to yours, it would not make sense to do what
I'm doing here. It would make much more financial sense just to replace the
entire drive, because honestly there's almost nothing that I'm gonna be able to
reuse out of this entire lower unit. But the purpose of this video is to show you
how to completely break one down and then rebuild it. I mean if you're just
having to replace your housing? Okay. If you're just having to replace your
bearings? Yes, this is worth doing. It's the same procedure. So that being said, if
you like what you see, why don't you go ahead and hit that subscribe button that
way you can keep up with the progress that I'm gonna make on this lower unit
and keep up with whatever I'm working on next.
If you need parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at Boats.net and we can
get you taken care of. Have any questions or comments so far on this one? Why don't you
leave me in the section below and I'll do my best to answer. Listen, we just want
to say thank you for shopping here with us at Boats.net and we will see you in
the next video. Have a great day.