Welcome back to SwissWatchExpo . This is Taking Time with Richard.
and Jonathan.
And today — as promised — five weeks in, this is our second one,
we're going to do a debate. Stick around. We're going to tell you about out.
Okay. Welcome back. So as promised, we're five weeks out from the last one,
and we're going to do another debate piece. And so, the parameters we set this time were $15,000
or more luxury time pieces. And I've chosen the Sky Dweller and you've got Vacheron Constantin
Overseas Dual Time. It's a mouthful. Mine is just Rolex Sky Dweller and that's all. We'll go into
that in just a second. So, we're going to break it down into four categories, just like we did last
time — the heritage, the aesthetics, the movement, and functionality. And we're just going to compare
the two them between those four different things. So, which one we're going to start with?
Let's go with the aesthetics.
Okay. Perfect — or you go first.
All right. Mine just looks better and that was it. That's the whole thing.
Well, I disagree, but it does look good. It's a gorgeous watch.
How do you disagree that mine looks better than a 42-millimeter Datejust?
Because it's my job. It's my job to tell you mine looks better than yours. I will admit that you're
right. That's exactly what it says. It's just an oversized Datejust in terms of cosmetics. It
is though. It's pretty. It's gold. It is gold. It is. It shines. It's a gorgeous piece. But it is,
it is for all intents and purposes, it really is just an oversized Datejust in terms of cosmetics,
aside from the dial display. But we'll get into that a little bit more.
Everything on mine is handmade.
That's true. Rolex doesn't really do that, but they're good at making
watches. I will admit that the case design on the Overseas is just a phenomenal look.
The character that they put into it and all the history that goes into the — they've
got the Maltese cross in like seven different components of the watch. It's just a beautiful —.
You're talking about my watch for me.
I'm selling for itself. Well, the one thing I don't like about it is
I feel like as this watch ages, it's going to be more difficult to polish and keep
these lines as crisp as they are now. They look great now, but 50 years down the road —
Like me being me, I'm not going to polish this. You'd have to send it to Vacheron.
You wouldn't, if you send it to anyone else.
You might be crazy — unless you're sending it to us to have it fixed.
Yeah, that's true. Other than that, I have it fixed polish wise. I mean,
yeah, we could do that. It just, I think it would take us a while because it's
hand polished and you got to remove every single link to polish it correctly. So,
it does take a little while. We do things very quickly, it's handmade stuff. Right?
I do like the blue. Who doesn't love the blue little electric for me? I think I would like
maybe a little more subtle blue. I do like the idea that it does have that electric.
Personally, we don't have the dial that I prefer. I prefer black dial.
Yeah. I figured as much. I like it too. It's just one thing aesthetically that I
think that doesn't make sense to me is it has the AM-PM indicator. Not that that's wrong,
but who needs to know if it's AM or PM? Well, that's for the GMT. Well, I know,
but still, I mean, if you're going to track a second time zone.
Right, right. All right. Well, mine's still beautiful. It does come in a
Rolex Everose Gold. It has the chocolate brown motif. In terms of beautifulness —.
Where is the GMT?
It's in this small circle right In the center here. So that's what showing your GMT function.
Where's the calendar?
Well, it's the whole thing — and we'll get into that when we get into the actual movement and
functions, but in terms of this is if you don't know, this is an annual calendar GMT,
and to add all that stuff into a watch typically gets you about three or four
separate sub dials and a whole bunch of buttons that you've got to press to get that all lined up.
In this case, you get this still the sleek, very sleek design. It's got tons of functionality in
it, but you don't have all the busy-ness that you typically get with an annual calendar on the dial.
So, I think it's beautiful just because you can look down on it. It's very readable. Even with all
those functions, it's just an absolutely beautiful piece. And it's not so busy that it doesn't make
any sense. Plus, I just love the chocolate brown. I'd probably put this on a brown strap
right now. We've got it on a black strap, but who doesn't love it and have a rose gold watch?
I don't. Oh, well I do. My girlfriend does, but
I don't like rose gold. I like, I prefer platinum and white gold.
Oh, okay. Well not right. All right. So let's do movement. Where you at with your —.
It's got 60 hours power reserve. Let's see here. It's dual time. So, it's like a GMT like yours.
It's got the date with the extra pusher. So, it makes it quick set. Easy.
I do like that. I do like that. Completely handmade again.
I think you just got to keep rubbing that in as Rolex is not handmade?
Geneva stamp for being like not just made in Geneva, but it has the Geneva seal on it, which
can only be given to those that have a consecutive quality control that essentially, they do things
by hand and they finish it to a certain quality by hand. And they must have the Geneva striping
all their movements. Well, did you know that Geneva striping is actually different levels?
Like the stripes are actually different levels and they all have to be within a certain micrometer
exact yeah. They had to be like the elevations have to be literally like within, I forget what
the dimensions are exactly. Yeah. I mean, it's a very minute, but they have to do that by hand.
Oh, wow. I didn't know that.
I mean, throwing the by hand stuff side, I mean, I find that very, that is —
I think that really, that really adds to the essence of the prestige that goes into these
higher end watches versus what you see from, might consider to be, aspiring watchmakers
that want to get to that level. You know, that level of consistency, that level of accuracy is
really what separates them. And it may not be a big margin for a lot of people, but that's
really what makes them better than most. For me, I've got the 9001 movement and it has a
72-hour power reserve. And of course, it also has — 12 hours is a long time. It's half a day
plus it's a Rolex. So, this thing is extremely efficient and I've been winding this, just
winding it constantly. If you were to wear this watch every day, you'd never have to set it again
for the most part until leap year — generally speaking. And so that really makes to me — but
man, look at it. The cool thing that I like about this is, again, going back to the, the aesthetics
of the dial, but also the functionality of it. In this case, the movement. What it does is it will
tell you the day of the month that you're on, the day that you're on. And then also tell you
the time. And then it also tells you what the time is in another part of the world. So, the
movement has four different complications in it that just really, really kick your watches butt.
How?
Because it has so much more. You got the GMT, you have the function,
But it's taken Rolex, what, like a long time to get to this level, to come up with
literally the most complicated watch they've ever made. And it's in a Datejust case.
Look, I agree with that, but it is again. Now I would consider this
the quintessential high horology movement.
I really would. I put this up with any other watchmaker, any other manufacturer —.
Horology indicates?
Yes but the way —
I'm waiting.
No. Well, the functionality of it is just so amazing. The amount of movement that they've
managed to get this watch down to about 320 parts or so. So, for all the functionality of it,
it really doesn't have that many pieces compared to jewels and actual metal. Well,
it's got 40 jewels. Yours has 37. So, if we're counting, if we're going up in value,
I got 40 jewels. You have 37. It's a lot, it's a lot to put in a watch and it's got all that.
And I think the — I still think I win because mine has more functionality than yours.
I mean, so why don't we go into functionality since anyway, —
I know we're done with the aesthetics, but look at that gold rotor.
You do have a gold rotor.
That's hand engraved,
But I have a gold watch.
Okay. I don't have to look at the gold if I don't want to.
Let's go into functionality. But then — so, obviously the GMT is — they're both GMTs, okay?
Yeah. A quick set date. 150 meters of water resistance.
You're going to have to use a tool to do this, but I don't have to.
Wait a second. Let me see. I don't think so.
Essentially, I can replace the straps.
Does that affect any right? Yeah, you're right.
You've got the old school way of thinking. Well, I've got the modern way
of doing things. Bud, it's 2021. Get with, get with the times, Datejust.
Hey, hey buddy, I'm fighting words. Yeah, you're kind right about that. And it doesn't have the —
it doesn't have that really cool capabilities of being able to swap out. But I mean,
you're not going to put a whole lot of variation of different colors or anything like that on
this way. Anyway, you don't really want to, you don't really want to have this on a metal band.
Anyway, I just put it on another strap —
Jubilee Oyster. Oh, the Datejust? Right now we do have it. We actually have several of those in
stock. I almost thought about pulling the white dial one, because I really do like that one,
but then it looked even more like a Datejust and I thought you would just fight me harder with
it. So, I pulled the gold — I did pull the golden motif in terms of the functionality of this one. I
mean, you do get all you do get the adjustment in the clasp so you can make the fit just right. The
one con I might say is that this is a more complex watch to set. So, you do have to kind of go to
your thinking box a little bit a little bit harder than you would, if you were just going to set a
watch this very standard. This one's very easy. But because it does have that dual capability.
Does that have hacking?
It is a hacking. Yours is not hacking right now.
Mine's a hacking now. But, I mean, whenever you have this kind of watch,
you don't ever want it to stop so you can calibrate it. Oh, okay.
I want my watch to stop. So, I can —
If you have this kind of a watch, it's like, what do you care to be exactly?
Well, yeah, that's it. It's a cost. And you were just talking about it to Geneva stamped
for timekeeping capabilities and precision and I'd want it to be more precise by
setting it to the world clock exactly — and now, I can do that.
COSC certified, but it's COSC quality.
It's COSC quality. And then some, likewise, this one is too. So, this is negative two plus two.
So, this is Rolex standards. I mean, you couldn't ask for a watch to keep —
I do like Rolex Superlative Chronometer. Essentially. So, I do like, and appreciate that
Rolex. So, they'll send their movements to get chronometer certified. And then they do their
own testing on top of that, like Omega does with the METAS certification where they continue to
test it and their own way. I think they do like meets the highest level of standards — three
extra tests or something like that? And this one is — I do like that.
And this one's tested inside the case, too. So, its master chronometer meaning it's not
the movement that's costs certified the movement itself inside the case is also COSC certified.
Cause you get a different reading inside the case. So, it's master chronometer certified.
And it's just, again, you get — like I said, I know that — I don't know if you guys are the
same way I am. I get to month 3. I know March is month three, but I can't tell you what August is.
And so, the way this is laid out on the dial,
I now know that we're on September 1st. That's the 9th month of the year.
Hey, it's my birthday in 11 days.
Is it? Well, Happy belated — I guess,
I'll tell you next week. Cause we got to walk, but it does tell you what day.
I mean, what month or the number month we're on. And I just liked that for me.
I know what month it is because it's my birthday month.
Of course, you're not going to forget that then. So, let's go into heritage.
So, I've got 250 years. Longest running consecutive watch brand.
Well, you're really pouring salt on the wound I think really with that because I don't have the
same heritage at all — at all. Especially with like Rolex being a complex watchmaker? They come
up with some great innovations. They've done some really wonderful things throughout their lifetime,
but — we've talked about it before. A lot of them, their companies are really pioneering all
the innovations and then Rolex kind of picks up on that and does kind of creates their own innovation
of it as well and improves it. And that's what they're really good at doing. This is the first
time I've really seen them kind of step out of what they might consider to be their comfort
zone and really walk into a watch that's very complex. And but that being said, it wasn't — this
piece wasn't available before 2012. Rolex has not been around nearly as long as Vacheron.
But I would argue to say this, even though it doesn't have the heritage that Vacheron does,
I would say that Rolex may be the single largest influencer of the watch world in the history of
watches. I don't know about that. I don't know. I could be wrong. Let us know what you think. As far
as like creating the biggest stir in the watch industry because of just their association with
the individual making it and they want to go buy a Rolex cause Hans Wilsdorf created the name
to be able to be spoken in every language kind of thing. I mean, I don't think that they influence,
I think they make a big buzz. Yes. Agree. But as far as influencing. Yeah. I think even Vacheron
being one of the one of the greatest watchmakers in the world, the longest standing history.
A lot of people don't know the name, a lot of people don't, but you can say that if
you don't nothing about watches, generally speaking, you've heard Rolex, obviously.
It's a like McDonald's, it's all over the world. And just because Rolex, you start looking for a
Rolex and because you're like, 'Hey, I want a Rolex because everybody's talking about Rolex.'
Other brands, they get to take advantage of that exposure that Rolex has. And then they get to
be exposed to watches that they wouldn't normally be exposed to. So that's why I think that even
though it lacks the heritage, eventually Rolex may actually have the greatest heritage ever
in a hundred years from now. That's just my guess. It's possible. I mean,
I'm not saying that —
Possibility is higher than zero.
Vacheron has a spectacular history because they've mostly gone unknown. And unlike the other two in
the holy trinity — AP and Patek — they actually got bought out by a, I think it was Chinese based
company or Asian based company for a while. Their generation two line was not,
well, I guess, accepted. They came back after they were bought out essentially with the gen three,
which is aesthetically, I think the best model. I agree, but I mean, overall, I think the history is
there as far as the quality is remained the same. They have the same standards as
the other two and the Overseas is really picking up steam in the last few years,
as far as getting on the same level as far as popularity for every the 5711, the Royal Oak
I think it looks better. It's got better water resistance. It's anti magnetic. It's well,
I mean, as far as this compared to those, like people are just like, 'Oh, Patek is the best.'
Right. You know, subjective. It's subjective. Exactly. So, I mean, in my, my personal opinion,
I believe that Vacheron that mixed with just the history of the aesthetics, the functionality
it's just Rolex, isn't going to be able to compete with because it's two different universes.
It's not just two different worlds. It's this has a longstanding history of
people that spend months making this. They're honestly the kings of the industrial revolution
for watch me, I've heard from many watchmakers that part of the genius with Rolex is that it's,
they're very simple in design in reality. So, a lot of people can work on it. If you're,
if you're producing, more watches in the old world, you need more watchmakers to fix it. So,
it makes sense that they're making a watch. That's very capable of being fixed by
even a beginner watchmaker. So that makes sense. And I think that's the genius of it because this
watch will last for an eternity. It's a little more okay, true. But like, yeah. I mean, my entire
history in the watch industry have only seen like one or two Vacherons come in. Now, many Rolexes.
I've seen where they make a lot. Now they make a lot of, not tons to Vacherons at all. But I mean,
definitely. I mean because they produce more matches. So, probability of something coming
in for service it's just higher. But anyways, that aside they still make phenomenal watches
know they do both are great pieces. Both really are great pieces. Like I wouldn't, I don't think
you can go wrong with either one of these or yeah. So, you guys let us know what you guys
think. I think we're going to close out here. And you guys let us know what you guys think. We've,
you've already picked a watch above $15,000, but what was your choice be, and you know, let us know
and get with us. Like, subscribe, comment, do all the jazz. Put Penny in the comments. You know,
that's always a thing even though she refuses to come on and we'll get her on here. Don't
you worry. We'll get her on. All right. Check it out next time on Taking Time.