Justin: The RedRock Pocket-Style Flares that we have here today for the '09 to '14 F-150 will
be one of your most affordable ways to provide just over two inches of additional coverage to
help hide a wider wheel or lower offset, or just make for a more aggressive look overall. Now, the
kit does include a set of four flares altogether, along with your hardware, and your rivets all for
right around that low $300 price point. But why go with a flare like this in the first place? Well,
I would say two reasons. Either, you really just like the look of a flare on your rig or
you might need to cover up some tire poke, thanks to a wider wheel or a lower offset.
Listen, guys, I'm a big fan of a little bit of tire poke with my personal trucks but the reality
is, some local laws mandate that the tires are covered at all times. And if they aren't,
well, you can either fail inspection or get hassled by your local authorities,
neither of which is very fun. On top of that, uncovered tires on a lower offset wheel setup
can result in a very dirty truck very quickly, as driving through the smallest mud puddle or puddle
in general will just fling water, mud, rocks, dirt, whatever, down the side of your truck,
scratching it up in the process. Trust me, I know.
Now obviously, some people at the end of the day might not mind this because,
hey, it's a truck, maybe it's supposed to get dirty. But,
if you're on the other side of the fence there and you don't enjoy washing your truck every day, you
prefer to keep it clean, well, then adding a flare like this certainly makes a lot of sense. Now,
these particular flares will give you just over two inches of additional coverage once installed
for both the front and rear wheel wells of your rig. And that's gonna help keep your
truck a little bit cleaner, while also making for that more aggressive look, and all, really,
for a price that's hard to beat when compared to some of your other options currently on the site.
Now aside from that tougher look, interested F-150 owners can also look forward to a very
tough build here. In fact, you got that poly build, which is very thick, very durable.
And then it's finished off in kind of a smooth matte or satin black finish, which is paintable,
by the way. So, if you didn't wanna go with a big color contrast of, like, say, a red and black or a
white and black, well, you could always have these things prepped and sprayed the same color as your
truck for a more consistent look. Now again, these are the Pocket-Style flare here, guys,
meaning they do feature that kind of bolted-on or riveted-on look, thanks to the included hardware,
which some owners really dig. Others maybe prefer more of a clean or smooth flare.
And listen guys, if you're not a big fan of the Pocket-Style flares, you have other options here
on the site, including a few smooth options that I definitely encourage you to check out
before ultimately making your final decision. But, what do you say we switch gears here? Let's switch
gears and get into the install. And as pointed out earlier, you can expect a pretty solid one
out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and about three hours or so to get everything knocked
out from start to finish. But to give you a better idea of just what to expect on your truck at home,
here is an American Trucks customer to walk you through the job now.
Man: So, here's the minimum number of tools you need to do this project.
You can do it without the drill. You will need a one-quarter-inch drill bit,
which I also have. So, right there. You only have to drill one hole. Not bad. And if you
have a short-handled screwdriver, that'll make it easier to get in. Where? Around the tires. This is
not a short-handled screwdriver. This would be a screwdriver where it's only about that long.
You don't have to have it, but it'd make it easier. This is a 7/32 for the front fender,
and a 10-millimeter for the back. Do not ask me why Ford mixes it.
And a pocket knife or scissors will work for cutting the rubber trim. So, everything else
is simple. Oh, and this comes with the kit. This comes with the kit.
So, make sure you put a washer. And they don't give you too many spares or any, so make sure
you only put one washer in. And then the bolt goes on the back side. I'll show you that in a second.
Let me just start it. It's a keeper nut. So, you just put that on like that. What I did is I did
all of them finger-tight, and then I went back and tightened them with a wrench here.
And they give you the tool for this here. I think that's just quicker than doing them one at a time.
So, my socket set is not at this location, so I'm using a wrench. If you have a socket set,
it's easier. Also, if you have a torque wrench that has an adjustment on it,
let it...don't overtighten it. Do you hear that? Let it come to that torque. I've got
mine set on eight. It's a Bosch. But, you know, you just need to get it snug. It has keepers
on it that will hold it on. You don't need to over-tighten it, or you'll break the plastic.
So, to get it started, you start an inch or so, and you get it right here on the edge.
And what I did, I just pulled it with my finger a little bit. And I just kept pulling with my finger
and pressing down. So, you can sort of...if you don't get it, you can actually get it
underneath. If you don't pull it all the way, you can actually get it
underneath, and it'll still come out. The covering is pretty slick.
And what you're also doing is you're kinda pressing it like this to get it to stick. So,
it has trouble around some of the curves so you have to keep going back and checking those
while you're doing it. But it's not hard. You just have to use a little patience, you know.
So also, when you're putting it on, you wanna push it down like these fingers are. You don't wanna
pull it, you don't wanna stretch it because as your temperature changes during the day and
everything, if you stretch it, it's gonna try to come back, and this rubber will...the glue on the
rubber will hold it on, but it's not gonna hold against changes in temperature and tension from
that. So just push it straight down, don't try to stretch it, and you'll be fine. For the end, you
just trim off the edge. I'm using a pocket knife. And I would say trim a little bit long, you know,
and see how it fits. Particularly look at it right there. See, I tried to go a little bit long,
and it was about dead even. So don't go too short. Make sure you go a little bit long.
Press it together. And I go back and press everything together all along. Press it down
and press it together so that it sticks really good. Just go back over everything
[inaudible 00:06:43] then you're done.
So, here's the prep work you have to do before installation. If you're not painting, the first
step is these bolts and the edge trim. The edge trim is this. Has a sticky backing which goes to
the inside. That's very important. So, it goes to this side. It tells you to put the edging on
first, but I had a little trouble dealing with the edging and it moving around while I was working
with the bolts. So, for the second one, I'm gonna do the bolts first and see how that works.
So, the next part of the instructions are to remove three screws. I'm starting on the passenger
side. The instructions show the driver side so I thought this would give you some more information.
There are more than those three under here. There's one that you actually need to remove.
You don't remove that one. Then there's the next one around. Coming counterclockwise is
that one, which is already out. You can see the white paint. And the last one is
this one, which is toward the rear. You can see my step guard. So now I have that little
mud splash. I'm trying to leave that on. That's actually glued on and then held with two screws.
I'm planning on leaving that on, and we'll see how that goes. And you have to put this clip in. Let's
see if I can get it. There. So that clip...and you can see I've lined it up with a hole already.
So, so far, this is the most unclear in the instructions. You have this trim piece marked
front right, and you have a new screw that you're gonna use through the hole
my finger's in the back of. You're gonna use the screws that were already in your truck
on this one and this one. So, hold it like this, sitting above your tire, and then lift it up, and
you'll line up those holes and put the screw in. I'll show that in a second.
So, there is the screw. It's still on loose because you need to now put the factory screws in.
And that's how it looks underneath your truck. Sort I've got the camera inside
the wheel well looking back out. So, I drilled a hole. And unless you have an extremely short
drill and bit, you're gonna need to turn your wheel all the way to the left
for the passenger side, and of course all the way to the right for the other, for the driver side.
Next step is to put that screw back in, which was the one that originally came with your truck
with the fender flare on. Push up. Make sure you get that into the groove like
it's supposed to be. Make sure that's aligned when you tighten. If you don't get it, it's no
problem. Just loosen the screw, adjust, push up, whatever you need to do, pull down, retighten.
So now it's time for the back.
There is the pre-assembled version. First thing you do is take 10-millimeter bolts out of this.
Oh, that's gonna look upside down to you, but that's where they come out.
There's one on each side. Again, I'm on the passenger side because the instructions follow the
driver side. So, then you start putting these sticky things on. I cleaned this first.
I think this just protects your paint. You know, the sticky thing underneath the clip, that's how
those go on. And so, here's another one out of focus. And then I've got my mark here, and my mark
there. And you put those on. Pretty simple. I pre-folded mine like this,
so that they'll go better. And then I put the clip on immediately. I do think if you don't clean it,
it'll still work. It's just, you know, it'll stick better, and it gives me peace of mind.
So, this is that clip, and you want the flat side out. The screws go through and hold to that
indention. So, you want the flat side out. So, it goes under,
and your screw goes through this flat side first. So now all my clips are in. Remember,
flat side out, screw goes this way. These are intended to give some adjustment. So,
as you tighten them down, they'll tighten up. But you can move them a little bit
so that you can get your fenders well fit and very snug. You do these top two first,
according to instructions, and then you work down on the sides, keeping them all loose at first,
get it like you like it, and then start to tightening them down.
So now it's installed. So, the back one
in this slot right here uses the one that came with your truck.
Up in here, you can't see it, but I took a photo of it from inside back out in the previous video.
And then the last one that came with your truck is right there. So, in general, this one was much
easier and quicker. Still a couple of things. Just check this every now and then. There is a tool.
If you get this squeezed in between the truck, they brought a tool where you can pull that out.
I throw that tool in the glovebox in case it ever happens in a carwash or something. I doubt it.
And then you've got some adjustment. I'd also say these clips can turn.
So, when you're patting them down, you might have to hold your finger back here like I am
and make sure it's not flipping down against the truck or whatever, and that it's staying
perpendicular. I had this one turn. Most of my others didn't. This one might've been
because the tire is so tight. I'm using the longer screwdriver. If you have a short screwdriver or a
90-degree angle for your nut driver, that'll help you get to this one and the front one
that's in the same position, the lowest one a little bit better.
But not that bad. Not absolutely necessary, just a little bit more time and patience.
Justin: Well, wrapping things up here, guys. If you are looking to cover a wider wheel,
or lower offset, or a combination of both, or maybe just dig the look of flares in general,
be sure to check out this set from RedRock 4x4 right here at americantrucks.com.