On this episode of reDefine show I share a series of quick tips on
how to better photograph fast-moving subjects. Adorama TV presents
the reDefine show with Tamara Lackey. Bringing fresh ideas
and equipment favourites. You can check out much more contact with photographers
by watching Adorama TV.
Hi this is Tamara Lackey and on this episode of reDefine show for Adorama TV
I'm gonna finish what I started last episode when I went through how you can
use
the Micro Nikkor 105 f/2.8 lens
as not only a macro lens but also as a portrait and a close-up lens.
This time I'm going to show you how you can also use it to really increase
all the verticality of the lens for fast-moving subjects when it wouldn't
normally be the lens you grab how you can still make it work.
We have with us again mister Caleb. Caleb jump in here.
Caleb was our fantastic model for our last episode and he's returning
to be able to do some fast movement for us right? You run all the time anyway
so it works out well for you.
So before I jump into that though I had some questions that I wanted to
provide more information, some clarification
from our last episode. One of the things that I mentioned was that the 105mm
isn't necessarily as fast a lens as say the 24-70mm f/2.8
and the question that came in was, well if they're both f/2.8 lens is why is one
not as fast as the other?
Fast glass is a term that's often used to describe a lens that can
achieve maximum aperture. So if you can go to an f/2.8
or if you can open up to an f/1.8 or something or f/1.4.
That would be considered faster glass. Another term when you're talking about
fast glass is basically glass that's fast or quick
to focus on fast-moving subjects so
specifically what I'm referring to is a lens that will grab
action quickly and the 105mm isn't really known
as a lens that'll do that as quickly as the 24-70mm f/2.8.
Wasn’t there a question about how the lens auto-calculates or something? There was Caleb
very good job.
One of the things I mentioned on the last episode is that when you get closer to
your subjects
one of the great things about the macro lens is that it'll do
some
auto-calculation. What I'm referring to is that it will increase the focal range
so you have better picture quality which is why a lovely things about the Nikkor
system
with the macro lenses and a few other lenses as well. Okay
so were gonna jump into how you can use the 105mm
for speedier subjects. Which again is not traditionally used for
but you can do that. Caleb you wanna jump back
and get into action for me. Very nice.
Okay so i'm looking around and in this setting
today I'm shooting with the Nikon D4 and as well of course with 105mm. Last time I
shot with the Nikon D800.
I'm gonna go ahead and set up. A bit of higher
ISO because I'm gonna be shooting with a higher shutter speed outside.
So I'm gonna be at one, probably 1/800th
for shutter speed and about 5 6 for aperture, part of the reason I'm choosing
the settings is because I want to give myself a little more wiggle room
because he's gonna be moving towards me. Instead of shooting in a very shallow depth of
field which will make it a lot more difficult to get a crisp capture when
he's moving quickly.
The other thing I wanna keep in mind is how I'm gonna set my focusing system?
Most the time the vast majority of the time I'm shooting single-shot one focus,
just that little red dot in the middle of the little red square in
terms of the focal point.
I'm focusing and re composing it's just how I've gotten used to shooting.
There's a million different ways to do it right. That happens to be my
experience of it.
In this case though when I'm shooting with the lens that's not going
to be as quick
to grab focus, I'm gonna switch to a continuous mode
and I'm gonna have a lot better luck with shooting so
I gonna switch do the continuous focal mode. Automatic focus mode.
And I’m gonna ask Caleb to come towards me.
One thing I always ask subject when they are running towards me is to keep in
mind that they want to keep their elbows in a little bit
and their legs in a little bit, just for a more
attractive capture. So Caleb if you can keep that in mind, keep your elbows a little bit,
your legs a little bit in.
Then just come towards me in a regular kinda fashion you don't have
to sprint as fast as possible but
Kind of a normal run.
Excellent.
Oh you happy too don’t you.
Very good. Because
I am shooting out here I get to take advantage of the fact
that I'm really not competing with anything else for focal points, because
right behind him is this long distance and I'm pointing my camera and lens in
that direction on purpose.
If he was running towards me through these woods these crowded woods for
instance.
I would have a lot more competition for that focal point even though the
system is very good at grabbing the moving subject I don’t wanna even risk it and
have any other distractions.
So by putting him out in a space where he's really far away from a background
I am able to achieve focus that much more crisply and
faster. The other thing I'm keeping in mind of course is ensuring
that I'm in a matrix mode for metering, because everything's roughly about the
same exposure in terms of where he’s coming in from
and that's also going to make sure that I grab my exposure more proper.
This is Tamara Lackey be sure to check out Adorama's latest contest to win
some fabulous prizes.
So in addition to the tips I've just gone over,
which include ensuring that you're technical settings are set up to give
you the best chance possible
to capture fast-moving subjects quickly.
Those technical settings of course include a higher shutter speed,
a higher ISO to support that. A more extended field of focus,
So that you get more wiggle room when your subjects moving towards you,
The ability to separate your subjects from the background so you don't have to
worry about distractions not just from a composition perspective
but distractions from your focal point being grabbed by something else
if they're going through a crowded background or something.
Making sure I’m set up in a matrix metering mode in addition to all those
ideas the other tip I would say is to switch to a burst mode
and try out the ability to grab 10, 11 frames per second. The Nikon D4 is
fabulous for this.
Be able to grab a few sections of frames at a time
to be able to pull out the expression or the look that you like best.
So were gonna do that real quick. You ready Caleb? Just come at me, I'm gonna switch to a
burst mode
and do exactly what you been doing just coming at me in such a happy way.
I'll grab a few frames. Okay.
The one thing to keep in mind with the burst mode is that as much as
possible
if you can recompose, recompose, recompose, because
I’ve seen sometimes people have a subject running at them and they click once and
they just
hold, and your subjects well out of range by the time that last burst is going
through. So
just recompose, recompose as they move towards you quickly.
I hope that was helpful thanks so much for your kind comments too. We all
appreciate them.
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