Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com, and welcome back to our project or engine
rebuild on our 2012 Polaris XP900.
As you can tell we've already made some pretty good headway: drained the fluids, removed
the battery, went ahead and removed the rollover protection and then the bed box on the back.
Well, now is when it's going to start to get a little bit tougher.
So you want to pay special attention to where every wire is, every nut, every bolt needs
to be tagged, put in a bag.
You need to tag the wires so you know where they go back.
It may seem easy when you're pulling it apart but it's going to be a whole 'nother world
when you go to put it back together.
So, follow along, take some notes, and we'll see if we can get this engine out and get
it on over to the teardown bench.
Let's get started.
Alright, let's get started by pulling the clutch cover off.
Just a bunch of 10mms that go around the perimeter.
They want you to takeit off-- the shock off-- but it can be done.
A little bit tight.
Alright guys, let's go ahead and get these clutches out of here.
Start off with the driven one.
Let's go ahead and pop loose that drive clutch.
We'll pull them off together.
Alright, want to make very certain that you use the right clutch removal tool for this
because if you don't it'll end up stripping it and you don't want that.
Voila!
Kinda scary but also very satisfying.
That's what it's supposed to sound like when it pops off.
It actually looks in pretty good shape.
Alright next, you need to remove these seven bolts and then a couple of push pins at the
top and then this inner cover will come off.
At this point we can go ahead and remove the breather line that goes up to the oil canister.
You can go ahead and remove the one that comes from the valve cover and then the one that's
actually venting to outside air.
Then we can go down there, and it's a little bit tight, but you can get the one that's
going to the valve cover.
It's just held in place by a compression clamp.
Go ahead and pull that up and get it out of the way.
Next, let's go ahead and take off these return lines that are going to the oil canister.
It's going to be really important to get those back in the right place, so make note of it.
And keep mind there's going to be some oil still left in the canister itself.
So before we actually pop these lines let's go ahead and get a drain pan and there's a
bolt down at the bottom of it-- a drain bolt.
Let's go ahead and get that drained out so it won't make quite as big a mess.
Once that is through draining, then we can get around there and disconnect that hose.
There will still be a little oil in it.
Just use some type of small cup to catch whatever is left in there.
Now, we can go ahead and unbolt the canister from the frame itself.
Couple of bolts in the back and then there will be another pair up front.
Now to get to these other bolts up front let's go ahead and get this-- I guess you want to
call it a firewall-- out of the way.
Plus that will give us access to the rest of the front of the engine.
Now we can get to those two bolts up front.
Alright, now we can go ahead and remove the oil canister itself.
It basically just kind of clamps it in place.
Next we can get those little crossmember bolts on the other side.
Remove this little heat shield, one little plastic rivet on the bottom.
Then we go ahead and lift out the support brace.
Next let's go ahead and get some of this plumbing out of the way.
I do not plan on reusing any of this.
We're just going to put her back stock, so all of this is going to come off.
Next let's go ahead and get the airbox disconnected and up and out of the way.
It's plastic so I don't want to damage it when I go to pull the engine out.
After you get these top bolts out there's a large clamp that actually goes down to the
intake.
You're going to want to loosen it up and then just separate it from the intake boot.
Next let's go ahead and get that idle control valve, throttle position sensors, basically
any of the wires that are heading over to the motor.
Get those vent lines out of the way.
A couple of bolts and then we'll be able to remove this upper bracket.
Make sure you tag both of your fuel injector lines so you can get them back in the right
place later.
I just did mine right and left.
Next we can go ahead and get this collar out of the way and disconnect the send and return
line that are going to your fuel rail.
Then we can go ahead and pop out the throttle bodies.
I left the throttle cable actually attached and we're just going to lay it off to the
side.
Next we need to go ahead and address the coolant hoses.
The one coming off the thermostat first.
You may want to go ahead and have another catch bucket under it.
And then we'll get the one heading back to the radiator right here.
Fair amount of fluid still in the hose, so you want to make sure you've got something
under the vehicle to catch all this fluid.
Well, catch as much as you can.
As you can see I'm making a bit of a mess, but we'll clean that up as we go along.
Next let's go ahead and address the exhaust system.
At the head it's just held in place by some Allens.
Most of them you can get to with a standard Allen socket.
Others you're going to have to use just a regular old right-handled Allen.
But to get enough torque on it I'm actually using an extension with a socket.
Once they're broken loose you can go ahead and remove the threads by hand.
Like I said, you want to bag all this stuff, because when it comes time to put it back
together it makes it a lot easier.
With that done let's go ahead and get the mufflers disconnected from the headers.
This particular setup from Dragonfire is actually held in place by springs.
Alright, with that done we go ahead and wiggle the exhaust header out.
Not absolutely necessary, but I do want to go ahead and get the mufflers out of the way.
Only thing left holding them in place is a couple of upper brackets.
Sometimes instead of putting them in a bag I'll even put the nuts or bolts back where
the came from if possible.
Next let's go ahead and get the starter wires off.
The positive and the negative will be right on the edge of the starter.
Go ahead and get some of your wiring out of the way.
Alright, this one actually had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on it.
We'll disconnect that later.
First, let's go ahead and get the stator output disconnected.
It just unplugs.
Next, let's go ahead and break these engine to transmission bolts loose.
you actually need to hold that center section while you're removing the nut on the other
end and do not let it turn.
Otherwise it's gonna strip out those threads on the other end.
With the nuts disconnected, then you can just tap the bolt back though.
I'm using a screwdriver just to go ahead and send it through.
Next let's go ahead and get that front engine mount done.
Just a couple of bolts on either side of the front of the motor.
Alright last but not least we need to go back and release those jam nuts and those threaded
spacers and go ahead and get them removed.
With those out of the way that's going to give us enough clearance to go ahead and lift
the engine out.
Next, we need to go ahead and attach a chain to the engine and then the chain to the hoist
and we'll start lifting her out.
Now you may have to pry on it a little bit to get it to release and then carefully bring
it up.
Doing this slowly.
Make sure you've got everything disconnected and nothing is hanging up anywhere.
Well alright guys, she is out of the frame now.
What's next?
Well, I'm going to go set it down on the teardown bench and we're going to go dive into it.
So if you would, follow us over to the next installment and we'll figure out what's happened
to this poor engine.
Until then we just want to say thanks for watching.