all right so today I'm trying to wire up my 3-way Smart Switch first thing I did was open
my existing 3-way switch to study the wiring so what you're gonna find here is the the back of a
regular switch there's a toggle switch so the two blacks on the bottom there they're on the
same circuit and they are actually one of them is either the power coming in or the you know
the power going out to the fixture and then the other switch would have a traveler going over
to it and then another wire it's the exact same wire setup with the two blacks on the bottom and
the one red up top to the load on both switches so what I have to do is kind of troubleshoot and
determine which wire is the the power coming from the building and which wire is the traveler so
what I want to do is I'm gonna pop out the the wire from the switch so that right now they're
there they're just using the regular push in so if you watch any of my other videos you just
wiggle them back and forth to get them out of the switch red and one of the blacks for now so
what I'm going to do is when I say just twist them together right now to see if they make a
contact and then we'll go on the other side and check if there's continuity using my multimeter
so I'm on the other side now I put I left the red in there I just made the contact with it and
I actually the first wire touched I think this one has continuity I know that those two wires
are the ones that are traveling across so I'm gonna end up only using one of these wires and
the other one I'm just gonna end up capping out so and so this means this is a load to the building
alright so back to the box so one of the things has us pulling all the part after I tested all
the wires and then figuring out which one was the the building line what I did it was I took
the building line out and then I kind of just looked at my box right now and just go it I know
it's the line because it goes into that bundle of other black wires in there in this dual king
switch and it's actually quite again cuz it shares the box down there so so I know that is the line
that's coming in to this switch since I'm on the main side and not the traveler side then the red
right now I'm assuming as a traveler to the other side and also the black travel set aside so one
of the things I think somewhere it goes up to the light I gotta kind of study a three-way switch to
figure that out right now so I'll report back once I do some troubleshooting all right so I'm back
on this second traveller side of the switch so I studied the wiring so it looks like I figured out
so it looks like in my particular box I see that I've got the traveler which has the red black and
white and that goes to the other box on the other side and that's what I test the continuity earlier
on and then over here I also have this other wire which is the white and black neutral and hot and
it goes up some guessing this is going up to my lights right there so what I'm gonna have to do
since this is the traffic I'm actually gonna wire I'm not the wired to blacks together that
way I make that make this connection back to the main switch over this to complete that circuit
then from there I wire the two blacks line and load onto my smart switch and I used red coming
off of here as the traveler for my smart switch alright so we're back and I made all my wiring
connections so you look closely you'll see what I did if you've watched any of my other smart in
start or Smart Switch install videos I told you about the requirement for the neutral most houses
built before 2012 or 2010 did not have this in the box and you may have to pull your own neutral wire
which is the white wire back to the you know to the light or wherever it comes from but luckily
in my house is near so I've got it in there anyway so I had to run that white jumper into this bundle
in the box of neutrals because usually they're in the box but they don't connect anything and
then I and this jumper comes with a switch then down here you'll notice this black wire nut with
a bundle of wires that's the line coming from the building so I've got that into the line
of the switch and then back here was that the traveller wire back over the other side which
I'm going to jumper over there with a wire nut and then I've got the earth ground which is the
bare copper wire to the top of the light and you'll notice I used to push in connectors on
all these because for this switch you push it in and then you tighten the nuts on the either side
to get that to fit right and have you watched my other video you also have the option of making the
little you loop putting it around this and screw here and then screwing it down you also notice
I haven't made the red traveller connection yet which is still hanging right there it goes behind
this no 120 volt traveler slot so they put that warning it and make sure you don't you know you
make sure that that wire is just connected to the other side on remote switch for the z-wave
sound back on this si so how's done by making that connection to jumper the the load leg on
to the other side so I'm over here I twisted it together with some pliers to make sure I get a
good connection my put up and warrant wire net on it and then tuck this back into the box so
over here I've made the connections on my remote switch so if you saw my unboxing video of these
switches so this side this switch is actually a remote switch I work with z-wave ZigBee Wi-Fi
whatever it is it doesn't really have any radios in it all it's doing is switching
the other switch that had the radio in it so I plugged in the traveler wire which is the red
wire that determined over here this which still needs a neutral so how you use the jumper that
came with the switch and then I plug the to the neutral on the building side that's in the Box on
the newer homes so I'm gonna test this after this so I've got the breaker on you got a good sign of
the light here so switches on switch is off on this side I'm gonna check the travelers side all
right I'm over here on the traveler side so all right now there's no lights on this thing I guess
it doesn't have an indicator light or anything it's just a remote switch someone off on so it
works all the wiring is good I got tuck everything back in the box and put it back together so that's
how you are up at 3-way smart switch using GE this is probably the same for all smart switches