Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today i'm going to walk you through the process to swap out our lower and
upper ball joints on our 2016 Yamaha YXZ1000R.
And when you're ordering up your parts from our exploded diagrams, you want to
make sure that you go ahead and get the joint
as well as this circlip. And notice that the top
and the bottom? They're both the same part number. Now typically when you're
doing your pre-ride inspection, one of the things you want to do is
actually make the suspension move to see if there's any play inside of this joint
and also look to see if there's a tear inside this rubber boot. As far as the
tools go, there really won't be anything special
involved, and I'll call out any hand tools that I use as we go along.
So let me go open up my toolbox and we'll dive into this project.
Alright guys let's get started. First thing we want to do is take off the axle
nut and that is a 32 millimeter. I'm using an
air impact. But if you don't have one, have somebody hold the brakes and that
should be enough to break it loose.
We're going to go ahead and pull off the brake caliper assembly just at the
bracket itself. The brake caliper bracket is held in by a
14 millimeter bolt. One up here at the top, another one down
at the bottom.
What we're going to do next is just take off this one bracket
and then we're going to bring up the caliper and just zip tie it to that
front bracket. There we go. Next, let's get the steering
ball joint off our control arm, whatever you want to call it.
Should be a cotter pin down here, and the castle nut is
a 19 millimeter and then there will be a washer
up under that. Make sure you don't misplace it.
Unscrew the castle nut where it's even with the bottom of the joint.
Then we're going to get a soft blow hammer, tap it, hopefully that'll knock it
out of the the knuckle. But don't remove it until we
do that, because sometimes a soft blow
will not do it. You have to go with the regular steel one,
as i was saying.
Did that get it? Yup, it did. Good way to keep this together: go ahead
and put the washer and the castle nut onto the end of it.
One, you won't lose it, two, lessens the risk
of damaging it.
Now let's go ahead and get this cotter pin out of the way, get that lower castle
nut removed. Alright stop there. Let's go ahead and
take off the lower shock mount. That's a 14 on one side and
a 17 nut on the other.
Make life a little bit easier getting creative with a couple of bungee cords
to hold the shock up out of the way. Let's see what
we've got now. Did you let go? I'd say that's a big no.
What i'm going to do is I've got another nut
with the same thread pitch and diameter. I'm going to put it on the end of it
then I can hit this with a hammer. Otherwise I'd be marring
the edges of the castle nut because it's going to take a little bit more
than just a gentle tap to break this
loose. What I'm doing here is just lifting it
up and putting it on a jack stand. That way I have
more distance I can swing the hammer to hit the nut.
And hopefully this will give me enough distance where I can hit it hard enough
to shock it loose out of the hub itself.
I think that finally got it.
I've deformed it to the point the socket won't go on it anymore.
Now you see why i put a different nut on there.
Had i used a harder metal that wouldn't deformed
so easily. Probably wouldn't have been a problem
but, I didn't, so we're going to try to use the impact to get that
nut off.
A castle nut would not have survived this
but it's clear now. Now let's get this out of the way,
see if we can get this to pull through the hub.
There we go. Now let's hold the whole shooting match up
so we can get that axle out.
It wasn't absolutely necessary to remove that from the front differential,
i just didn't want it in my way. So a couple of pulls, and it was out of there.
Another cotter pin. Now let's go ahead and get off this
other castle nut and then our entire hub will be out of the way.
What I did just then was pinched the steering arm
mount up against the upper control arm. That way i was able to get enough
leverage to get it to release. So what we're going to do next is
reattach this bungee to the shock, get it held up out of the way. We're going to
take off the circlip on the top of the ball joint and then drive it out through
the upper A-arm. Tell you what, where we can get a
solid hit on this, I'm going to go ahead and remove the shock.
Yahtzee! Well they are out. Now we're going to go ahead knock this
one out. And now i don't care about the threads
anymore because we're replacing this joint anyway.
On the other end we take out that circlip and then we just need to drive
it out. Go ahead and get this guard out of the
way, and then we're going to use our vise just to give us something to hit against.
We should be able to knock those out. And this is held in by three four
millimeter bolts. Alright, see if we can get it to knock
out here guys.
Piece of cake. Next we're gonna reach in, take off this
circlip, and then knock the other one out. Listen
guys, a bit of advice: if you're only replacing one of these,
I think that's a mistake because if one of them is worn out, the other one's not
far behind. You don't want to take your machine
apart this far and not go ahead and do it.
Now to do this, what we need to find is a collar
that fits over the boot itself but makes contact with the outer edge
of the joint itself. And i think this 54 millimeter is going to do the trick.
I'm going to spray a little silicone on it.
make it easier for it to slide over it. There we go. Now let's clamp it down in
the vise best we can, and then get it driven in.
i always tell when it bottoms out. It sounds different.
Grab our new circlip and get it in there.
So one down, one to go. It's basically going to require the same
amount of force to drive this one into the upper control arm. You could probably
do it on the machine, but you run the risk of pushing that arm up and
maybe damaging your headlight. I don't want to do that. So what I'm going to do
is just put this to the side, we're going to finish removing
that upper control arm, bring it over the table, get this one driven in.
Then we can start to put the machine back together.
This should be pretty simple. We're going to remove this 10 millimeter, which is
holding the line that's going to the brake. It's
just a support just like the one that was down at the bottom.
At that point, we'll remove the bolts for the upper part of the A-arm.
We've got a 19-millimeter on the outside and a 14-millimeter on the inside.
At that point, the caliper will feed through this center section and we won't
have to remove the line. So let's put this over on the table and
get that last ball joint pushed in. Same trick,
spray it down with a little bit of silicone, get our collar on.
Just drive it in.
Move that to the edge, get that last little bit.
There it is. That's it. Let's start putting this thing back
together.
Don't forget your washers, and we're going to take these to 65
foot pounds after i get them snugged down.
And when you're doing this, make sure you've got the torque wrench on the nut
side, otherwise you're on the bolt side and that's not going to give you an
accurate reading. There we go.
Sooner we get that passed through the better.
Alright, we're going to go ahead and get our castle nut tightened down on
that upper ball joint. We're going to take it to 51
foot-pounds. We're going to go and get it snugged down
with this.
Now you may have to force this down into the knuckle to get it to hold on to it
because it's spinning. Now what I'm doing here is i'm just going to seat
the ball joint into the knuckle so it doesn't spin.
Oh so close. So once that actually bottoms out,
it's game over. It's just getting it there can be a little bit
tricky. Gotcha. Maybe a little bit tricky holding this
still. So we're going to temporarily put the
steering arm through so i can get this torqued. Let me
probably leave it in there.
There we go. Reattach this line. Let's hold this up
to reinstall the axle. There it is.
Now put a little bit more grease on the end of our half shaft
so it doesn't wear out those inner seals and,
in the event we ever have to replace the bearings on this,
it'll come out and not be frozen. There,
Starting to come together guys, starting to come together.
So kind of the same process down here. We need it to
set in place. I want get this castle nut started.
And we're going to bring it up, put some pressure on this where it's
pushing it up in there. See if that's got enough pressure to hold it.
Got it. Go ahead and do 51 on that one, then go ahead and get out our cotter
pins. Alright, doesn't quite line up on that
hole, so we're going to move it just a little bit more.
That should do it.
Now let's go ahead and get in our top one.
That's it. Now we can go and remount the shock.
It's a 17 on the nut side and a 14 on the bolt side.
47 coming up.
One more time down here.
Before we go any further, let's go ahead and torque down the tie rod bolt.
29 foot-pounds on this. There we go. And it does have a cotter pin.
Let's go ahead and get our our shield back on.
And it's just held in with three four millimeter Allens.
Next let's put some grease inside of our hub on the splines
and also on the surface area right here so it doesn't destroy that seal
too quickly.
Keep the grease off the brake disc though. We'll go and put this
on just hand tight.
Alright guys, we're getting ready to torque down this bolt, and it takes 268
pounds and there's no way the braking system can hold it by itself.
So there's only two ways I know of: either a) to put a breaker bar through
here and let it go against the ground, which
is what we're going to do. Or you can finish putting the machine
together, take out that center cap, lower it down with the wheel in place,
and then you can get the torque on it. But we're going to use a breaker bar to
get this done.
And actually my torque wrench only goes to 260, but we're going to call that good
go till it clicks and then flex it just a little bit more
to get those last eight in there.
So now we're going to just stake it in place.
There we go. We are getting close. We're down to the caliper now.
Get these bottomed out and then we'll torque them to 35 foot-pounds.
One left to do.
Alright guys, that's going to wrap this one up. Only thing I have left to do now--
or you have left to do now-- is just to remount the tire and wheel.
But as you can see i still have a lot more work to do, so we're not going to
worry about that right now. Well listen, if you need these parts for
your machine or anything else, why don't you come see
us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, why don't you leave them in the section
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in the next video. Y'all have a great day.