the Cubans are doing the two things they like best -
making money
and hanging out with friends.
Though their profit margin's pretty slim.
Cotton candy costs four cents
and the world's worst spaghetti
runs about a dime.
The noodles have been sitting in lukewarm water
for about six hours.
They're topped with watery ketchup
and a dollop of mystery meat.
Apples, at 80 cents apiece, don't attract much attention.
by afternoon the square is buzzing.
Children are at the center of Cuban life
and nowhere more than at a festival.
Toys are hot sellers
and give a glimpse of what kids want in life
like pedicabs
and if you can't afford the real thing
plastic baseballs and bats.
Heavy rigs with a rather disconcerting cargo
and guns
right next to baby carriages.
The most popular
and expensive
items up for sale
are anything with a foreign label.
But the festival isn't just for kids.
It's also a place for men to prove their mettle
in front of an attentive crowd.
About 25 cents.
About two dollars.
You can use it to celebrate with all your friends
at the nearby beer tank.
It's bring your own bottle
or whatever else you have on hand.
There's even someone nearby
to sell you an empty can.
Just don't look too closely at the tank.
But then, it's only 12 cents a pint.
Unfortunately,
the men from Carmen don't have time
to enjoy themselves.
The festival is just hours away
and they're not finished wiring up the Light Wall.
In fact,
San Salvador has already started their fireworks display.
Though it seems more smoke than fire.
They make up for it with enthusiasm.
The dense smoke hides a rain of burning debris
but the real danger is the homemade fuses
when they won't go off
and even more so when they do.
Legend has it that the festival was started
by a frustrated priest
who could only get a few members of his flock
to come to midnight mass.
He recruited a bunch of kids to walk the streets
and make as much noise as they could.
It worked.
And over time they started using fireworks instead.
Carmen is still in trouble.
They've managed to finish up the wiring
but there's a short and they have no idea where.
And then
amazingly
the other side -
San Salvador
sends a team of men to help.
It's fixed!
And the ancient bombas come to life.
Though they're clearly on their last legs.
In fact, the whole place looks ready
to go up in smoke.
But at least the lights are working!
And then it's Carmen's turn
to put on its fireworks display.
See you next time
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